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Best belay device for single pitch sport routes?
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chrisparedes


Aug 22, 2005, 10:45 AM
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Best belay device for single pitch sport routes?
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I've been using an ATC for most of my sport belaying. My partner likes to use a gri gri, but I find it to be horribly cumbersome and awkward. Plus I have not found a good way to belay with it with out taking my brake hand off the rope to feed out slack. The technique just conflicts with my habit of never releasing my brake hand. I'm looking into getting the ATC-XP as it will provide more friction for catching falls but will still be easier to feed out slack. Any opinions on this? Any other better belay devices?


Partner j_ung


Aug 22, 2005, 10:54 AM
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You might look into a Trango Cinch.


landgolier


Aug 22, 2005, 10:55 AM
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Been discussed to death, but buy the xp, you'll like it.


blouderk2


Aug 22, 2005, 10:56 AM
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I use the Gri Gri for sport. I think it works great. You just have to get use to using it. Its awkward at first, but you get the hang of it after awhile.


vegastradguy


Aug 22, 2005, 10:56 AM
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although i predominantly use tube devices when climbing trad, i find the grigri is the best for sport as it allows me to not be completely bummed when the leader is dogging his way up his project.

the xp should do fine if you dont mind all the dogging (if there is any).

i cant remember if the cinch is easier to feed rope out for sport climbin- anyone out there know?


feanor007


Aug 22, 2005, 10:59 AM
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Re: Best belay device for single pitch sport routes? [In reply to]
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a munter hitch :lol:

seriously though, i hate the xp, not knocking people that use it, but i'd rather a standerd atc or grigri for sport


landgolier


Aug 22, 2005, 11:07 AM
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In reply to:
a munter hitch :lol:

seriously though, i hate the xp, not knocking people that use it, but i'd rather a standerd atc or grigri for sport

If you like a regular ATC, just flip the XP :D

Seriously, though, was there a specific rope or something you didn't like it with? It does have a little different geometry from the regular ATC, and I've never found a rope I didn't like it with, but I've never used it for a gym fattie and never belayed doubles with it.


overlord


Aug 22, 2005, 11:14 AM
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i like the grigri. and, yes, you need to release the brake end while feeding QUICKLY.

but if you prefer an ATC, by all means, stick with it. i always prefer that my belayer uses what hes comfortable with as opposed to what im comfortable with (unless its a yoyo. i hate those :P ).


verticon


Aug 22, 2005, 11:34 AM
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I've been using a Reverso (Petzl) for a year now, and it works like a charm. Recently Petzl modified it in order to add some friction and the new model is even better. But, occasionaly I use a Grigri, especialy when belayed by a begginer. The worse it could happen is to get the rope jammed while pulling too hard on it, but at least I know I don't depend too much on that guy's abilities and reflexes.


joshy8200


Aug 22, 2005, 11:38 AM
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I'm like you man. No matter how many times I belay a leader with a gri-gri (or see someone belaying a leader) it just doesn't feel or seem right.

The XP's extra holding power side is quite nice when someone is hangdogging a lot. It beats the old Trango Pyramid that I have for belaying someone hangdogging.


justhavefun


Aug 22, 2005, 11:44 AM
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In reply to:
i cant remember if the cinch is easier to feed rope out for sport climbin- anyone out there know?

Very easy. Like the device isn't even there. That was the main reason I bought one. Plus it's easier to handle than a grigri.

With a cinch, you cradle the device in your palm with your thumb and the first few fingers wrapped around the brake end of the rope. You don't take your hand off to feed.


mcgivney_nh


Aug 22, 2005, 11:45 AM
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I like the original ATC but, go witht he XP if you are comfortable with it. I am more comfortable with someone belaying me with a device they are comfortable with than with my favorite, if they feel better using something else.

-Sean


Partner cracklover


Aug 22, 2005, 12:06 PM
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Re: Best belay device for single pitch sport routes? [In reply to]
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The best belay device for single pitch sport routes?

The Gri Gri is the best, hands down. (pardon the pun)

If you don't like the Gri Gri, you'll hate the cinch. It locks down on the rope with the slightest tug towards the leader.

Seriously, the Gri Gri is the best tool for the job. For trad climbing, I'll use my ATC. I used to use the TRE until the damn thing wore out prematurely and the manufacturers refused to do anything for me.

GO


smithrockfreek


Aug 22, 2005, 12:19 PM
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gri gri, simple and eazy but if your obsessed with atc's by the reverso


samuel


Aug 24, 2005, 2:01 PM
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It's been discussed before, and it is possible to feed rope quickly without letting go of the rope with the grigri.
http://www.8a.nu has an article on the subject, and I have written on it here before.


whipperboy


Aug 24, 2005, 2:22 PM
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I have a gri gri and an XP. I used to use the XP religiously, for the same reasons of the gri gri being kinda clumsy to get used to. After I spent some time with the gri gri, I got the technique down and now I use it almost exclusively. Once you get past the short learning curve, the gri gri will flow for you as well as an ATC.


davidji


Aug 24, 2005, 2:29 PM
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The Grigri is my favorite for sport climbing. OTOH if your rope is too thin it may not work. Smallest I've used sucessfully with a Grigri is 9.5mm, and that only worked after the rope was broken in a little. I've found it incompatible with a new, dry 9.7. I'll have to see how it works with my new 9.6mm rope.

I'm curious to try the new, improved version of the Trango Cinch. I expect it's a better bet than the Grigri with skinny singles.

If you love ATC-style devices, the ATC-XP is hard to beat. Feeds well, and locks hard when you want it too.


samuel


Aug 24, 2005, 2:39 PM
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In reply to:
The Grigri is my favorite for sport climbing. OTOH if your rope is too thin it may not work. Smallest I've used sucessfully with a Grigri is 9.5mm, and that only worked after the rope was broken in a little. I've found it incompatible with a new, dry 9.7. I'll have to see how it works with my new 9.6mm rope.
...

I've had new and slippery 10,5 ropes slip through without the grigri locking up during testing.
If you learn to belay with one hand on the rope you won't get any "bad habits" to bring to your other belay devices/rope configurations.


hortisb


Aug 24, 2005, 2:46 PM
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I've always used some form of a tube. Back in the day they called them Lowe Tubes, but I beleive Trango is marketing them as the Pyramid now.


wendell


Aug 26, 2005, 9:47 AM
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i use a grigri and a reverso, although i lean more heavily on the grigri most of the time.. ive used tubes, but i find i short rope more often than not with them.. also, i saw a site(forgot, sorry) that teaches an adapted use of the grigri so you can feed fast and not let go of the brake hand.. have to admit though, it gets a bit of getting used to..


samuel


Aug 26, 2005, 9:56 AM
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In reply to:
...also, i saw a site(forgot, sorry) that teaches an adapted use of the grigri so you can feed fast and not let go of the brake hand.. have to admit though, it gets a bit of getting used to..

There is a description on http://www.8a.nu, but it is even better (safer) if you learn not to use the index finger on the underside of the grigri.


tonydevo


Aug 26, 2005, 10:05 AM
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Check out the SUM by Faders.

www.faders.es


jt512


Aug 26, 2005, 10:21 AM
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In reply to:
The Grigri is my favorite for sport climbing. OTOH if your rope is too thin it may not work. Smallest I've used sucessfully with a Grigri is 9.5mm, and that only worked after the rope was broken in a little. I've found it incompatible with a new, dry 9.7. I'll have to see how it works with my new 9.6mm rope.

I use a grigri routinely with a dry 9.4. I have yet to find it "incompatable" with any skinny rope.

-Jay


qwert


Aug 26, 2005, 11:05 AM
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MY suggestion would go to the TRE.
I have one and it yet has to wear down to such an amount that it will become hard to use. But however there seems really to be an issue with wearing, since the new TREs are now modified, so that they will last much longer. I have seen many versions and prototypes of the TRE, and i can tell you, the guys working on this device know what they are doing.

my other suggestions:
Munter (not kidding!)
figure eight
ATC XP

qwert


skibumangel


Aug 26, 2005, 11:40 AM
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I love my XP... locks hard when you need it to, gives adequate braking aid if you need it, and doesn't get as hot for rapping. I also have a cinch which I use when I think someone might be hangin a bit.. but I lead towards my XP. As many people have already said, go with whatever feels comfortable to you.

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