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Suggestions for Mount Desert Island?
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shakylegs


Aug 22, 2005, 6:31 AM
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Suggestions for Mount Desert Island?  (North_America: United_States: Maine: Down_East: Acadia_National_Park)
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The beloved and I are renting a place near Bar Harbor in a few weeks with two other couples (yeah, very much like "The Big Chill").
Would greatly appreciate suggestions for climbs, doesn't matter whether it's trad, tr, whatever. It's okay to suggest classics, we're going to be there during the week as well.
Thanks


Partner j_ung


Aug 22, 2005, 6:52 AM
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You're going after Labor Day, I hope. I've only climbed at Otter Cliffs. Great stuff!


rockgoat


Aug 22, 2005, 7:45 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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I was just there 2 weeks ago and had a blast. Everyone says its so busy but we only ran into 3 other couples at the Precipice Wall both days. Go there because the climbing is much better. Here is a couple of routes we liked.

Gunklandia 5.7
Old Town 5.7
Story of O 5.6
Recollections of Pacifica 5.9
Wafer Step 5.5

Otter Cliffs is nice to but there is more people there. Go after 3:00 PM and it should be good.

Buy the guide book and do all the 2 and 3 stars routes and you will love them. We spent 4 days climbing and all the routes we did where heaps of fun.


ambler


Aug 22, 2005, 8:03 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
IBuy the guide book and do all the 2 and 3 stars routes and you will love them.
This is the best advice. Get the guidebook, page through it to learn the lay of the land, and pick out some routes that call to you. There are many good ones.


backclipped


Aug 22, 2005, 8:19 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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I just moved to the area and had the opportunity to climb there on Saturday--beautiful place. The Precipice area seems to have the bulk of the climbing and they are quality climbs at that. In addition you don't have to pay the absorbent and ridiculously proud Loop Rd fee ($20 for a day pass) to access it. The guide book, like most other guides, is spendy ($25) but worth it.

I personally think that Otter Cliff sucks. I mean, the beauty is undeniable, but there are gawkers abound, the routes are really short and easy, and you have to shell out the Loop Rd fee. There is definitely better climbing to be had on the Island

Have a great time.


shakylegs


Aug 22, 2005, 8:21 AM
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Thanks all.
So, I should assume that the Guide to Climbing in New England book doesn't really cut it, does it?


ambler


Aug 22, 2005, 8:27 AM
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So, I should assume that the Guide to Climbing in New England book doesn't really cut it, does it?
Those regional guides are nice for road-trip planning, but if you're going to spend more than one day in an area, I'd get the local guide as well -- Butterfield's in the case of Acadia. For the price of a couple of pizzas, you'll have a better trip.


rockgoat


Aug 22, 2005, 8:28 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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Get this Guide. It is really good.

Acadia - A Climber's Guide
The comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Acadia National Park - published in 2002. The guidebook is 160 pages long and covers every major climbing area.

Have fun climbing there.


Partner cracklover


Aug 22, 2005, 8:30 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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Otter Cliffs: Crowded, relatively short, high quality rock, toproping. Perhaps 20-50 worthwhile routes from 5.4 through 5.11 (or maybe there's a 5.12, don't remember). Very easy access, but you must rappel to get to the base of the climbs, so you must be able to get up the easiest climb in order to get out. Gorgeous setting, right on the water.

Precipice Cliffs. 2-4 pitch trad on perfect granite. Again, routes from easy to hard. Gorgeous views out over the ocean.

Great Head: 1 - 2 pitch trad routes. Mostly quite steep. One 5.8 pitch, mostly 5.10 and up. TIDE DEPENDENT. You're right out over the ocean, and if you work the tides wrong, you're in deep doodoo.

That's all I know.

Oh, and there's lotsa bouldering, but I don't know anything about it.

GO


cfnubbler


Aug 22, 2005, 9:38 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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While I agree that Otter is way over rated in terms of the actual climbing, you do not in fact have to pay the park entrance fee to get there. There is another road that intersects the park loop road essentially right at Otter. In fact, if memory serves, it may actually be called Otter Cliffs Road. You reach it off of Schooner Head Road leaving Bar Harbor.

The South Wall (aka the Precipice) is fantastic, as noted. The classics already mentioned are worthy, and if you want something harder, try Fear of Flying, Return to Forever, Maniacal Depression, Selfless Bastard, High Wire, and Connecticut Cracks. All are phenomenol and in the 5.9-5.11 range.

Great Head is my favorite climbing on the Island, and has one stellar 5.8 (Morning Glory) and heeps of great 5.10-5.12 pitches. Truly one of the most unique and best spots in New England.

Have fun...

-Nubbler


marc801


Aug 22, 2005, 10:15 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In addition you don't have to pay the absorbent and ridiculously proud Loop Rd fee ($20 for a day pass) to access it.
I assume you meant "exorbitant"? :)
In any case, that $20 entrance fee is good for one car for 7 days - it's not a daily fee. There is also an annual permit for $40.


shakylegs


Aug 22, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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Those regional guides are nice for road-trip planning, but if you're going to spend more than one day in an area, I'd get the local guide as well -- Butterfield's in the case of Acadia. For the price of a couple of pizzas, you'll have a better trip.

Completely agree, but the milliner at home frowns at all the guide books taking up the shelves. I think I'll risk the wrath of the redhead, and get it anyhow.


ambler


Aug 22, 2005, 10:52 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Those regional guides are nice for road-trip planning, but if you're going to spend more than one day in an area, I'd get the local guide as well -- Butterfield's in the case of Acadia. For the price of a couple of pizzas, you'll have a better trip.
Completely agree, but the milliner at home frowns at all the guide books taking up the shelves. I think I'll risk the wrath of the redhead, and get it anyhow.
It's skinny, low shelf-impact. She'll see the light when you pick out the perfect climb. 8^)


glad2btrad


Aug 22, 2005, 11:24 AM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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I've climbed at Acadia several times and really enjoyed it. My favorite climbs are mostly on the South Precipice. It's been a while since I've been there (I live in Colorado now), but I seem to recall the following routes being very good:

1. Old Town (5.7) to Return to Forever (5.9). Excellent dihedral climbs and good protection.

2. Gunklandia (5.7) to Emmigrant Crack (5.10a). Emmigrant Crack was particularly entertaining and protected well.

Otter Cliffs is fun but overcrowded. I also did a few decent quality climbs at the South Bubble. Gargoyle (5.8) had a good second pitch, though the first pitch was rather non-descript.

I hope you have a good visit.


backclipped


Aug 22, 2005, 12:27 PM
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[quote="marc801"]
In reply to:
In addition you don't have to pay the absorbent and ridiculously proud Loop Rd fee ($20 for a day pass) to access it.
I assume you meant "exorbitant"? :)

Thanks, yeah, I did mean exorbitant :oops: Bounty, the quicker picker upper is absorbent. The sad part is that I'm English undergrad going back to school to get a teaching certificate :?

I grabbed the annual for $40 which actually gets you two stickers. I didn't realize the $20 pass was good for multiple day use...shit, sometimes what you don't know can be expensive.

cheers


backclipped


Aug 22, 2005, 12:35 PM
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absorbant...like Bounty, "The Quicker Picker Upper" :oops: Yeah, I meant exorbitant. Strange thing is I majored in this language :lol:

I wish I had a better understanding of that Loop Rd thing on Saturday. Proof that what you don't know has a way of being expensive. At least there is a bright side: $40 gets you two stickers.

cheers


ben87


Aug 22, 2005, 1:27 PM
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The guide is good. I only had time to climb at Otter cliffs, and it was busy - but it was also beautiful and excellent rock. I do think that the experience of climbing right over the ocean is unique.

Also, someone mentioned tides for Great Head - same thing for otter. Maybe not as important at Otter (I don't know) but definitly something to be aware of.


ambler


Aug 22, 2005, 1:31 PM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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I wish I had a better understanding of that Loop Rd thing on Saturday. Proof that what you don't know has a way of being expensive. At least there is a bright side: $40 gets you two stickers
Or, there's another way -- fork out bigger bucks for a Golden Eagle. Not cost-effective for a weekend at one park, but definitely so if you travel -- the same pass will get you into Yosemite, JTree, Red Rock, Arches, RMNP, Canyonlands, Devil's Tower and much else besides Acadia.


shakylegs


Aug 22, 2005, 1:33 PM
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So this is BLM land? Like Red Rock?
Makes me regret not buying the pass in March.


edge


Aug 22, 2005, 1:47 PM
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Re: Suggestions for Mount Desert Island? [In reply to]
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No, Nat'l Park Service, not Bureau of Land Management. Actually I am not personally aware of any BLM land East of the Mississippi, but I could be wrong.

Everyone has given you good beta. Otter Cliffs is good for a couple hours, if your milliner wants to climb the only actual sea head on the east coast (I will let you provide the other...,) and if you can pony up to A Dare By the Sea; a truly great route.

Otherwise, go to the left end of the Precipice. Also do the hike there (almost a via ferrata) for a casual outing, and I heard the South (?) Bubble has some good routes also. I won't give you bouldering beta, as I know you would rather eat a penguin.

PM me if you want me to mail you my Acadia guidebook. It is not all inclusive, but will get you where you need to be.


shakylegs


Aug 23, 2005, 6:26 AM
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Thanks for the offer of the guidebook, edge, but if Acadia is all that everyone makes it out to be (and the consensus seems to think so), I should do my part and get the book myself.
Looks to be a good time coming up: four of the six folks are really good cooks, we all enjoy our booze, penultimate week of September, etc. We should have done this before.


Partner dominic7


Aug 23, 2005, 7:20 AM
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Last summer we sailed up to Mount Desert (from Portland) and filched an empty mooring at the top of Somes Sound (right in the middle of the island) for a week. There is a system of shuttle buses that go all over the island that we used every day. We used to wake up, cook breakfast, row to shore, take the climbing gear and dog on the bus and it would take us to various climbing spots on the island. We climbed at Otter Cliffs, the Precipice and the South Bubble during the week - most of the things we did have already been mentioned in the thread, the Precipice probably being the favorite.

There are quite a few cool climbing spots along the coast of Maine that you can get to by cruising sailboat - I've got a vague plan to write a guidebook one day...


jstp


Aug 24, 2005, 6:32 AM
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Soooo.... i don't want to sound silly, but i bet the RDB has tons of great info on where to go, how to get there, which are the great climbs for every ability and doesn't go so far as to make the Butterfield guide superflous (which was definitely intentional). but i might be biased, seeing as i spend too much time trying to keep that section organized and neat.
there are also stellar climbs in clifton (guide available in the BH climbing shop) and further north in the Katadyn region. rock on and maybee i will see you on teh cliff (if i ever have a minute from busy tourist season work)
-j


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