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anykineclimb
Aug 23, 2005, 4:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
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Anyone have the article from Climbing magazine a while back where they test ice screws and determined that angling 10 degree towards the load is stronger than 10 degrees away? Any other reports would work too.
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madrock
Aug 23, 2005, 4:22 AM
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That test was done in ideal ice conditions, the results are mixed depending on the the structure of the ice. It was posted in a black Diamond Catalog.
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cruxmonger
Aug 23, 2005, 4:38 AM
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It depends on more than just the structure of the ice. It depends on temperature and the direction that the ice fall faces. On warm days, screws will start to melt out of the ice rather quickly. This is obviously not good at all if your screws are at a -10 degree angle. This can even happen on cold days if the sun is facing the ice fall. The reason behind this whole theory is because the force of a fall is meant to be distributed on the threads of the ice screw and not on the shaft. In ideal condtions the screw is stronger at a -10 degree angle for this reason. It is nice to have that shaft to rely on, however if you run any risk of the threads melting out.
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wormly81
Aug 23, 2005, 4:58 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2004
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::Raises glass of scotch::
And heres to a winter full of solid ice and good screws!
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reno
Aug 23, 2005, 5:13 AM
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In reply to: ::Raises glass of scotch:: And heres to a winter full of solid ice and good screws!
Right, cheers.
:clink:
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aknecht
Aug 23, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2005
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AS far as I know that is the way to place a screw in "perfect" ice. But im pretty sure Ive never seen that, and the conventional wisdom is in more questionable ice to place the screw at +10-15 degrees away from the pull. I generally go for this routine unless, like I said I have dug to the ice and it looks super bomber - very few melts.
.02
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aikimac
Aug 23, 2005, 9:06 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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I think this is the one you want, it also contains some interesting comments from Alex Lowe.
http://www.needlesports.com/advice/placingscrews.htm
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