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What is a good first big wall climb in Yosemite?
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hairyapeman


Aug 24, 2005, 12:23 PM
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What is a good first big wall climb in Yosemite?
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I am a avid 5.10 climber and have gotten all the way to 5.10c once. Me and my friend (who is way more experienced then me in big wall) want to do a big wall in early October. We were looking at bulging puke or southern man on Washington column. I would love to do El captain but only want to spend a maximum of 3 days on the wall. Can anyone point me in a good direction?


Partner tim


Aug 24, 2005, 12:53 PM
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Does WFLT count as a 'big wall' in your book?


shakylegs


Aug 24, 2005, 1:01 PM
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What's WFLT?

Edit: thanks j.s.


jeffstephan


Aug 24, 2005, 1:04 PM
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WFLT: West Face of Leaning Tower


mistymountainhop


Aug 24, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Supposedly Lost Arrow Direct is a great first big wall, very straight forward complete with a roomy bivy ledge leading to a legendary summit. or if you want to do something brave and new, ive never heard of anyone bigwalling royal arches, im sure you could spend 3 days on that!


johnlunsford1


Aug 24, 2005, 1:29 PM
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I just did S. Face of Washington Column about a month and a half ago as my first big wall. I would recommend it as a great first. There are only a few pitches of aid but the Kor roof is fun.


aspiringmonkey


Aug 31, 2005, 10:29 PM
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I did the west face of the leaning tower about a month ago as my first wall. It is feasible for most parties in 2 days and is about 1200-1300 feet tall. C2 is as hard as it gets and is alot of fun, with a consistent overhang and a good bivy ledge in the middle. The hardest part of the whole thing was humping loads to the base of the route. I would highly recommend this as a first wall, but because you can't rap or be rapped to after a few pitches up, it is a must send.


ricardol


Sep 1, 2005, 9:18 AM
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i didn't know there was a route called bulging puke on the column ..

.. from what i've heard these are good 1st walls..

South FAce of WA column
West Face Leaning Tower
Prow
Wet Denim DayDream on the tower

.. southern man


lambone


Sep 1, 2005, 9:22 AM
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Bulgiing Puke is closer to the arches, and would not be a good first big wall, unless you want an epic, or to bail on the first pitch.


brutusofwyde


Sep 2, 2005, 7:36 AM
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For a good first wall off the beaten track, Gold Wall or Silent Line in the Ribbon Falls area are also an option to consider. The advantage is that this line is not crowded. Approach is a grunt, and the descent is at times inobvious, but the aid is straightforward with bivies possible in a few places mid-climb.

Brutus


climbhigher


Sep 2, 2005, 4:09 PM
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Seems like people are confused what a big wall is? Grade V's are big walls and will take an average party more then a day. Grade VI's are obvisiouly big walls.
WFLT is a Grade V
Regular Northwest Face is a Grade VI
Skull Queen is a Grade V
South Face of washington Column is a Grade V (people say this is not a big wall???)
All those routes are very doable in 3 days and sometimes even easier to do in 2 days. (Because of the Hauling and other logistics)

For El Cap routes.(Average Big wall climbers) 3 days
Lurking Fear
Salathe
Triple Direct
Nose
Tangerine Trip
Zodiac
All the BETA is in the Super Topo guide book.


climbingnurse


Sep 2, 2005, 5:07 PM
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Another vote for WFLT. Did it as my first big wall about a month ago. Had a blast! I'll be posting a TR soon. The hauling is as easy as it gets because every single pitch is overhung. The only other aid I had done before that was The Lost Arrow Spire Tip. I'd highly recommend that as a great way to get your feet wet.


mccabeman


Sep 2, 2005, 5:27 PM
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The Prow


Partner holdplease2


Sep 5, 2005, 9:07 PM
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Southern Man might not be a great first wall. There is some routefinding around and thru questionable rock and if you aren't practiced at recognizing which is the better of two paths to aid, or dealing with fragile rock, you could make a mistake. Skull Queen might be the better of the two options...however...

I have not climbed WFLT or South Face but these seem to be quite popular first walls. And the high traffic would lend itself to more secure rock, would be my guess.

Also, if you want to go big, try Lurking Fear. It is the least technical aid climb to the top of the captain.

-Kate.


karlbaba


Sep 6, 2005, 12:11 AM
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If you do the WFLT, be sure you have your act together. It's very, very overhanging and bailing is no picnic.

and more folks bail on their first wall than suceed

Peace

karl


la_revoution


Sep 6, 2005, 11:54 AM
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I AM BULGINGPUKE!!!!!!!

Did the first three pitches lots of bat holes full of lichen. But the climbing is very straight forward.

First wall in the Valley? South Face sucks unless you do the Southern Man Variation which, yes, does bypass the Kor Roof, but you get way more spectacular and cleaner climbing using the first two pitches of Southern Man.
The Prow is THE best first wall there i can think of though.

~TY~


graniteboy


Sep 6, 2005, 12:19 PM
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A great first wall that went "out of style" but is still a good fun route is the regular quarter domes route, despite the long approach. But I would advise against it in october. The guy who said Gold wall was right on...good intro to wall climbing, but the flared chimney stuff on that one has been known to make some people unhappy. Here's a thought: do the "east face" of washington column (AKA astroman). It has some great ledges, and not much traffic in october. Just be sure to do it clean, or you'll be on the butthead list. When it comes down to it, you can do alot of the route free if you lead 10c, but will have 6 pitches that require some C1 aid. And it sure is a pretty route. But be advised about the harding slot. It's a grunt.

I would listen to Karl Baba's advice that most people bail on their first wall, and for that reason (combined with the highly changeable weather in october) that the leaning tower might not be your best choice, especially at that time of year.

I haven't done it, but Leversee said that bulging puke sucks.


climbingcowboy


Sep 8, 2005, 12:06 AM
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I did the SFWC as my first wall last year, I'm a weaker climber (yos. lead 5.8 comfortably) and I only gave my brother a few aid lessons and we had no problems. We only went to pitch 8, but we took our time and enjoyed it. We just didnt feel like doing the last crappy pitches and hiking the gulley. I really wanna get on the Prow since we bailed on my first attempt two years ago.


areuinclimber


Sep 8, 2005, 8:37 AM
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go proud....
something solo on the captain.


justsendingits


Sep 9, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Liberty Cap, all belay's and lead bolts and rivits have been replaced, by me.


drunkenmonkey


Oct 7, 2005, 5:02 AM
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I would vote for the PROW, it was my first wall. There are good ledges at nearly every belay so you can rest your hips and get yourselves sorted out with ease, the bivies are also good for a party of two although tight for a three. Only thing to be careful of is the descent it can be epic. Don't and I repeat don't do it for the first time in the dark whatever you do!

Have fun and be careful...

p


Partner rockmonkey8167


Oct 17, 2005, 7:14 PM
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I did the Regular North West Face of Half dome for my first wall at the beginning of august this year. had an absolute blast. it would be good to do it in two days if you can but three days is definitely doable. thats how long it took us. fyi whoever leads the 11th pitch male sure you clip the pin before you traverse to the ledge. the directional my partner put in blew causing a huge fall. the reason why it took three days.


estwing


Oct 17, 2005, 7:26 PM
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check out my old post about WFLT. We got to the top eventually. Climbing was not hard. If you want to read all of it we are the team that was rushing "crazy lady" the soloist. Many sides to that story. 2 nights to the top then maybe a bivy up there is realistic for this route.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/850630#850630


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