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Partner gamehendge


Aug 23, 2005, 1:45 PM
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Flower of Higher Rank. Suicide Rock 5.9. I was never more scared and thrilled @ the same time in my whole entire life. Beautiful line.


toobigtoclimb


Aug 23, 2005, 1:49 PM
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Last Angry Arab (5.6) on Nomad Dome in Joshua Tree. A nice and easy trashy crack with room to plug lots of gear. Went back to do it again a couple of years ago for historical purposes. Still a nice and easy trashy crack http://www.briansadventurejournal.com/02022003nomaddome.html


cyanamid


Aug 23, 2005, 1:58 PM
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I'd followed a few routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and placed gear on the ground, but my first lead on gear was Cat in the Hat, 5.6 (maybe 5.7 I dunno), in Red Rocks.
I lead the 2nd and 4th pitch. I remember thinking "This doesnt feel like granite at all....."

If I recall correctly. I had plenty of gear (climbing on my cousins rack) TCU's, Wallnuts, and a bunch of Camalots. I also recall spending about twenty minutes (or what felt like) on each of my placements. Final memory was getting the rope stuck after the first rap.
- Andrew


kmsmoguls


Aug 26, 2005, 7:00 AM
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My first trad lead was last weekend at Crow Hill MA. I did Boardwalk (5.5) with a set of stoppers mostly smaller sizes and a few BD cams. Man was it cool.

Erik


chromwells_head


Aug 26, 2005, 8:38 AM
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My first trad follow was Anti Jello Crack at dome rock (5.7) my first lead was the same day on tree route (5.6) with nothng but passive pro :razz:


bigeyedfish81


Aug 26, 2005, 8:45 AM
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First trad lead a couple of weeks ago. Bloody Nose (5.6), Draper's Bluff (So Ill)


realdeal39


Aug 26, 2005, 8:48 AM
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My first lead was the 5.8 Church Bowl Lieback in Yosemite. I top roped the route in about 2 minutes so I figured leading would be no problem. I never realized the pshycological factor of leading a climb trad before that. I led it on two sets of stoppers, which in hindsight is probably more than I actually needed. I would put in a piece, set it then look at it for three or 4 minutes wondering if it would really hold me if I fell. Then I would climb 2 or 3 feet above it, look down at it, then downclimb and give the piece a few yanks to make sure it wasn't going anywhere. Two pieces popped out on me that day. The first was a really bad placement, the other was when I was pulling the rope up through them (Don't ask me why I did that.) although I think it would have held a downward pull. When I make it back to the valley again I'd like to try it again now that I have cams.


andrewj


Aug 28, 2005, 10:35 AM
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my first trad lead was this summer at Sams Throne on Poison Ivy (5.7) I placed about 3 cams and 2 cowbells, got a little high for my belayers liking before placing the first pro, but it was easy climbing. The hardest part of that whole climb was figuring out how to get my second secured to the damn anchors up top so he could belay the 3rd and 4th members of our party up. It was made more of a mess by the fact that we were being very overly cautious with redundency and such.


braaaaaaaadley


Aug 28, 2005, 10:45 AM
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First pitch of Conn's West (5.5) at seneca. The last little bit right before a pine tree was my first experience with my arch enemy: the crack. That made for an interesting day... but the climb itself was pretty easy. All I had was 6 cams, some cowbells and a set of nuts. I can't wait to go back to seneca!!!


okcdirtbag


Aug 28, 2005, 11:06 AM
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My first trad route was Crazy Alice, in the narrows, whichitas oklahoma. Only had nuts, hexes, and forged friends. Was about 10 ft from topping out and popped off ripped out 2 nuts and a hex last piece held which was a forged friend. My belayer took a running start backwards to take up slack ended up about 1ft from the deck and a HUGE rope burn running from lower thigh to upper calf. The rop got caught around my leg as i fell.. needless to say it shook me up a bit and took me awhile before i was able to get my lead head back.. but hell yea what an experience for your first lead!


nicklikesfire


Aug 28, 2005, 11:12 AM
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My first lead was at ragged mountain in CT. a 5.7 or 5.8 that I blew about 10 feet from the top. it was awesome.


lucas_timmer


Aug 28, 2005, 11:32 AM
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My first trad lead was kiddy's crawl at Cudden Point, England I used a size 1.5 WC offset friend and some medium sized DMM Wallnuts.I don't really count it as a real route because it was just 7m long.But still, it was my first trad lead.....

-LT


flipnfall


Aug 28, 2005, 11:38 AM
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first trad [In reply to]
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"Rose Bush"
Taylor's Falls, MN

GT


dancesonrocks


Aug 28, 2005, 12:02 PM
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First pitch (5.7) of After Six, Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite.

Hot day, slick rock, but really fun. I was practicing with 2 of my gal pals and we took turns leading that pitch. We only had nuts and I think one or two Friends to use (this was years ago).


harmonydoc


Aug 28, 2005, 1:43 PM
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Nice website, rockgrrl/dancesonrocks!

My first trad lead: last weekend, first and third pitches of Knapsack at Lover's Leap.

My second and third trad leads: yesterday, the second pitch of Deception, then the second pitch of Harvey's Wallbangers Center at Lover's Leap (both 5.6). Loved it! Carried tons of gear, enough to way overprotect if I wanted to. Had an embarrasing moment on top of the second pitch of Deception when I did a face traverse right and found out the piece I placed just before the traverse was not multidirectional (it popped). Oops, guess I've learned that lesson now. Think I'll stick to 5.6 leads for a while, seems to be just about right, interesting but well enough below my limit that I don't get scared and I can concentrate on the placements and keep the likelihood of actually falling on them minimal.


dancesonrocks


Aug 28, 2005, 1:50 PM
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Nice website, rockgrrl/dancesonrocks!

Hey thanks! And thanks for posting on the forums :) I gotta update the site with some pictures from a Tuolemne trip I just got back from.

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