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active vs. passive: what ratio is on your rack?
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Partner tattooed_climber


Aug 28, 2005, 5:35 PM
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active vs. passive: what ratio is on your rack?
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mine's 4 to 11 for my everyday trad rack

(12 cams to 33 nuts, hex's, tricams...not counting any of my anciet pro i collect/some times use or aid stuff)


euthanasia


Aug 28, 2005, 5:43 PM
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It's split pretty evenly


dirtbag101


Aug 28, 2005, 6:35 PM
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A few more cams


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 28, 2005, 6:45 PM
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22 stoppers 3 tricams 8 hexes to 15 cams. thats a little more than 2:1


vegastradguy


Aug 28, 2005, 7:47 PM
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lessee....15 or so stoppers, about 8-10 dolt nuts and a titon, two hexes....toss in 15-20 cams...pretty even split, i'd say.


cruze


Aug 28, 2005, 8:07 PM
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About 3:1 in favour of passive.


ihuang


Aug 28, 2005, 8:12 PM
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I don't bother with passive gear most of the time, so the ratio is about infinity.


Partner hosh


Aug 28, 2005, 8:19 PM
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I've got 35 nuts (who needs that many? a gear whore!), 6 hexes, 3 tricams (I lost a few on my last big climb...), um, 11 aliens, 5 camalots, and 2 power cams.

that brings it to:
Passive - 41
Cams - 18

I'd put tri-cams with "passive", bringing it to 44:18, about a 2:1 ratio?

hosh.


korntera


Aug 28, 2005, 8:20 PM
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10 stoppers and 2 hexes and 13 cams so 1:1 but i have all the cams i need, i just gotta get some more curved hexs and i need a pink and red tricam.


grk10vq


Aug 28, 2005, 8:28 PM
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In reply to:
22 stoppers 3 tricams 8 hexes to 15 cams. thats a little more than 2:1

why doesn't that surprise me??

http://i23.photobucket.com/...rk10vq/GunksRack.jpg


grk10vq


Aug 28, 2005, 8:43 PM
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In reply to:
22 stoppers 3 tricams 8 hexes to 15 cams. thats a little more than 2:1

Why doesn't that surprise me??

http://i23.photobucket.com/...rk10vq/GunksRack.jpg


dbarandiaran


Aug 28, 2005, 9:17 PM
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18 nuts, 6 hexes, 11 cams so about 2:1 in favor of passive


Partner euroford


Aug 29, 2005, 10:55 AM
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umm, it depends on the route! :roll:


ping


Aug 29, 2005, 11:01 AM
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10:13 active:passive


caughtinside


Aug 29, 2005, 11:02 AM
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The rack I actually carry on the typical route is 13 cams and 13 stoppers, so exactly 1:1.

I'd have to go home and count up all the other nonsense I own, for a total of all gear.


goclimbarock514


Aug 29, 2005, 11:03 AM
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I have 6 hexs, 10 nuts, 4 mini-nuts(they're really really f--ing small), and one red metolius tcu that I picked up in squamish


chanceboarder


Aug 29, 2005, 11:44 AM
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lets see 10 stopers, 7 hexes, 5 aluminum offsets, 1 tri cam and 14 cams.

passive = 23
active = 14


realdeal39


Aug 29, 2005, 11:54 AM
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25 passive and 10 active. 2 1/2 to 1 ratio.


muslmutt


Aug 29, 2005, 7:36 PM
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3.25 to1 in favor of passive, not counting all the stuff I leave at home most of the time.


Partner climboard


Aug 29, 2005, 7:47 PM
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13 nuts, 2 tricams, 10 cams.

1.5:1


jimfix


Aug 29, 2005, 8:07 PM
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16:31 A:P. Good to see most are at least 2:1, even the bigest gear whores know that cams arn't the be all and end all.


afiveonbelay


Aug 29, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Totally dependent on area and type of formations.
Gunks/Dacks: lots of passive 1:3
T-wall/New River: slightly more cams 1.5:1
Looking Glass and other NC plutons: cams and tricams only with passive as ballast


tradrenn


Sep 13, 2005, 6:52 PM
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21 Stoppers
6 tri-cams
11 cams

more cams to come
soon 1:1
for now 2:1 for passive


brianmccully


Sep 13, 2005, 7:48 PM
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Two sets of nuts, a set of tricams, two sets of hexes and a set and half of cams, do the math.
So I have a good split when comparing actual number of pieces but heavy on the passive


Partner mr8615


Sep 13, 2005, 7:56 PM
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20 cams, 10 nuts, so 2:1 in favor of cams. I rarely place passive gear, cams are just faster for me.

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