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boadman
Aug 29, 2005, 9:42 PM
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I started climbing in New Hampshire, mostly at Cathedral and Canon, but I made several trips to the Daks (mostly Pok-o-moonshine wall) and didn't find the grades that stiff when compared with the 5.8s in the gunks. I think I lead my first 5.9 there, it was a really cool finger crack. Most of my 5.12 climber friends have onsighted 5.12 trad, that's what I think it takes to consider yourself an "actual 5.12" climber. I'm going for 7 pages.
In reply to: In reply to: Also, 5.8 wouldn't ever make an actual 5.12 climber "crap razor blades." You have obviously never climbed in the Daks :P Another washed up trad climber here, going for 5 pages...
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sbaclimber
Aug 29, 2005, 9:50 PM
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In reply to: I started climbing in New Hampshire, mostly at Cathedral and Canon, but I made several trips to the Daks (mostly Pok-o-moonshine wall) and didn't find the grades that stiff when compared with the 5.8s in the gunks. I think I lead my first 5.9 there, it was a really cool finger crack. Live Free or Die at the Beer Walls by any chance? (That was my first 5.9, and is a very sweet finger crack). There are some very scary routes in the Daks, but yes, the Gunks are even more notorious for a good mix of mild sandbagging (if you are not used to the Gunks) and exposure.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 29, 2005, 10:15 PM
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ADK stands for Adirondaks. neither of the climbs that we did that day was are all that hard but I don't think the kid had ever been more than 25meters off the deck before. I like sport climbing and totaly respect sportclimbers that have their shit together. fractuer said somthing stupid about a hundred pages ago that set me off and i had some fun with it 8^)
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boymeetsrock
Aug 29, 2005, 10:19 PM
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ah, the wash bowl... y'all must be washed after climbing hesitation! right?
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 29, 2005, 10:33 PM
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yea i took him up overture first then with much coaxing and badgering we cruised hessitation. I use doubble ropes and know my stuff so he was totaly protected on the traverse. the exposuer got to him as well as the novelty of climbing 700ft ina day. I doubt that he realized that this was a short day. When I ran into him the day before he was cruising on this pumpy extremly over hung 30 ft arrette, pulling moves that i couldn't do if you put a gun to my head. I was just trying to give the kid an eye opener and some good experience. He had a blast despite having to grab gear on the 3rd pitch of overture and getting a bit scared. he did complane that I had ruined his upcomeing trip to fountbleu as he was not going to be content bouldering now that he had a taste of bigger clifs 8^)
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celemandraos
Aug 29, 2005, 10:35 PM
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There are a lot of angry people here. I personally do not give a monkeys butt what people think about the type of climbing I do. Climbing is fun, that is why I do it, not to impress anyone else.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 29, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Isn't that a shame. He's going all the way to fountainblue And he MAY? want to climb more than boulders.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 29, 2005, 10:40 PM
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now that i think of it trad man, if i hear of you turning one more boulder geek onto walls, i'll set dynamite behind pitchoff.... :shock:
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asandh
Aug 30, 2005, 12:05 AM
Post #59 of 112
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:)
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jt512
Aug 30, 2005, 12:20 AM
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In reply to: jt512 wrote: In reply to: This coming from the guy who boasts about his ground-up sport FAs. Look in the mirror, for crying out loud. -Jay Jay you're much to serious about your status in the climbing pecking order ... If that were true, I'd be in serious psychological trouble. It's like Kalcario says, "Sport climbing starts at 5.12c," which means I barely qualify.
In reply to: and by the way, I'm flattered you remember my every word ... but that is precisely why I delete most of my posts. I'd much rather you spent time climbing than memorizing words :) I can't blame you for deleting most of your posts, only for not deleting the rest of them. -Jay
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philbox
Moderator
Aug 30, 2005, 12:33 AM
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My very own thread, for real and for true, oh I am so honoured. Thank you, thank you (bows to crowd at Academy awards), I`d like to thank JT for starting this thread. I`d also like to thank my many partners for helping to show me that I am a washed up trad climber. My mum, thanks mum. My producer and the director, luv ya guys. Phil gushes as he exits stage left, dabs eye with tissue. There ya go, stupid enough a thing to say. Need to keep the thread on topic eh. Don`t wanna be accused of a hijack now do we. Oh and for good measure here is a couple or three emoticons. :arrow: :wink: :shock: :lol: :troll: :drama: I love that last emoticon.
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fracture
Aug 30, 2005, 12:34 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: and by the way, I'm flattered you remember my every word ... but that is precisely why I delete most of my posts. I'd much rather you spent time climbing than memorizing words :) I can't blame you for deleting most of your posts, only for not deleting the rest of them. -Jay Nice. Asandh: you better have written a program to do that for you. If you're doing it by hand, that's just sad.... :lol: ;)
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bobd1953
Aug 30, 2005, 12:49 AM
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In reply to: If that were true, I'd be in serious psychological trouble. It's like Kalcario says, "Sport climbing starts at 5.12c," which means I barely qualify. That could go under...stupid things that sport-climbers say. :lol:
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jt512
Aug 30, 2005, 8:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: If that were true, I'd be in serious psychological trouble. It's like Kalcario says, "Sport climbing starts at 5.12c," which means I barely qualify. That could go under...stupid things that sport-climbers say. :lol: Well, if that's true, then I'm sure glad it was Kalcario who said it and not me! ;) -Jay
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bvb
Aug 30, 2005, 8:25 PM
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i'd just like to point out here that i'm a fucking american hero.
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bobd1953
Aug 30, 2005, 8:48 PM
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In reply to: bobd1953 wrote: Quote: If that were true, I'd be in serious psychological trouble. It's like Kalcario says, "Sport climbing starts at 5.12c," which means I barely qualify. That could go under...stupid things that sport-climbers say. Well, if that's true, then I'm sure glad it was Kalcario who said it and not me! -Jay I knew you were to smart to say something so dumb. :lol: BVB- the only fecking hero on this site is me. Get it???
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curt
Aug 30, 2005, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: i'd just like to point out here that i'm a fucking american hero. So how come BobD and I had to get your car back for you--from the dipshit who stole it? Some hero.......pfffft. Curt
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kappydane
Aug 30, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Another washed up Trad climber here trying to make a comeback after over a decade off. Slowly converting the sport climbers in the gym to the joys of multi-pitch trad. Stupidest thing I have said since coming back is "What do you mean I untie when I get to the chains?" I had never done a sport route before this year.
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skinnyclimber
Aug 30, 2005, 9:49 PM
Post #69 of 112
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Hello. I would like to become a washed up trad climber. What's the fasted way to get there. Is there a book sorta like "how to climb 5.12" by Horst? Maybe "How to become a washed up trad climber in 8 weeks". Please help me.
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dingus
Aug 30, 2005, 9:55 PM
Post #70 of 112
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"How'd they get those ropes up there again?" Me, to Brutus, about our own fixed ropes. DMT
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freeskicolorado
Aug 30, 2005, 9:59 PM
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In reply to: Hello. I would like to become a washed up trad climber. What's the fasted way to get there. Is there a book sorta like "how to climb 5.12" by Horst? Maybe "How to become a washed up trad climber in 8 weeks". Please help me. While I'm way too new at trad to know for sure, I'm pretty sure you have to climb for a long enough period of time that all of your original gear becomes obsolete. That said, I've heard that lots of ham sammichs accelerates things.
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dingus
Aug 30, 2005, 10:04 PM
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In reply to: Hello. I would like to become a washed up trad climber. What's the fasted way to get there. Is there a book sorta like "how to climb 5.12" by Horst? Maybe "How to become a washed up trad climber in 8 weeks". Please help me. 8 weeks? 3 boxes of Twinkies and two 6ers of beer a day ought to do it. You can scrunch it to 4 if you use malt liquor instead. DMT
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 30, 2005, 11:14 PM
Post #73 of 112
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Registered: Dec 2, 2001
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"What do you mean...weight training for climbing?!?" "I got all the weight I need hanging over my harness here...now get outta my way!"
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asandh
Aug 30, 2005, 11:26 PM
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:)
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 30, 2005, 11:40 PM
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"I decided to join a gym...I figure I'll either lose weight...or...I'll be paying $55 a month as a 'fat' tax."
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