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Mt. Watkins
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bigdan


Jul 26, 2002, 3:54 PM
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Mt. Watkins
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Anybody know where I can find information about the climbing on Watkins? Guidebook, internet, old mag, whatever...

[ This Message was edited by: bigdan on 2002-07-26 15:54 ]


bigwalling


Jul 26, 2002, 6:37 PM
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I think supertopo has a topo on there site for some route. Look for obscurities. It has lots of other topos also.


passthepitonspete


Jul 27, 2002, 4:08 AM
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Most of the routes are in the Reid guidebook.

The story of the first ascent of the South Face by Harding et al. is found in The Vertical World of Yosemite.

There is an old Mountain Mag with a story called Long, Hard and Free where Max Jones and Mark Hudon made a "free as possible" ascent of a number of big walls, including the South Face route.

It should be in Supertopos, but I don't have my copy handy just now.

Best bit is to ask around in Yos, and try to find someone who has done the route you are interested in.

I have never done it - not because of the route - the South Face is said to be superb. I haven't climbed it [yet] because the approach is so heinous.

Cheers,

Pete


bigwalling


Jul 27, 2002, 11:30 AM
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Here is some info off Clint Cummins site.

"South Face - 5.12 A1 ** (19p: 4 5.11, 2 pendulums, a few aid bolts, A3 section on last pitch?, 99% free)
FFA? - Brooke Sandahl, Steve Sutton, 1999 or earlier
freed all but 1-2? aid moves
photo caption in Spring 2002 Mountain Gear catalog, p.92: "Brooke Sandahl following high on the South Face of Mt. Watkins during its first free ascent. Grade VI 5.13a"
near FFA? - Dave Schultz, Peter Croft, 1997?
freed all but 1-2? aid moves
near FFA - Max Jones, Mark Hudon, 10/79
freed all but the pendulums (at start and middle of route), and 7 aid moves (5 on the bolt ladder, 2 on the last pitch).
topo in '87 guide
Escape From Freedom - 5.12c? perhaps ** (18p: 3 5.11, 3 5.12)
FA - Urmas Franosch, Bruce Morris, 7/88
originally 5.11d A0 (1 pendulum, 2 tension traverses, 2 points of aid, 99% free)
They ran out of water, food, and climbing shoes on the route, and had a real epic at the top.
2nd Ascent - Urmas Franosch, Elliott Robinson, 88
Elliott took a 50' fall on this ascent!
3rd Ascent - Greg Murphy, Paul Kallmes, 89
first one day ascent
All pitches freed - Tom Addison, 10/99
free version:
p7 - easy traverse right into an overhanging 5.12b corner
p13 - freed slightly under tension traverse at 5.12a
p14 - freed slightly left and under bolt ladder to tension traverse at perhaps 5.12c
p16 - 5.10d on original line
style: p7, p14 were pinkpointed with draws in place on the bolts.
route has not been freed in a continuous push yet, but that is planned soon.
75% of the bolts were replaced with 3/8" x 2.5", including some on the Rabbit Ears rappel approach.
Bolts were added at one belay, with permission from Morris."


apollodorus


Sep 30, 2002, 10:38 PM
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1974 Yosemite guidebook puts the South face of Watkins at 5.8 A4.


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