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saskclimber
Aug 18, 2005, 5:28 PM
Post #26 of 41
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Registered: May 23, 2004
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as far as I'm concerned the mugens were the worst pair of bouldering shoes I've owned (including boulding in my sport shoes). I hated that dual rubber stuff (MR rubber is really sticky, but it only last a couple weeks :P ). the straps all tore off eventually, and the heel cup fell apart. The flash were a good shoe though. they're my 3rd pic for bouldering, saltic vampire's are the 2nd. Theres still lots I havent tried though, so dont take my word for it.
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milodog13
Aug 18, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #27 of 41
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Registered: Oct 12, 2002
Posts: 53
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Red Chili voodoo. They fit perfect for me. Aggressive but not painful. And far superior quality control over 5.10.
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wish_i_was_climbing
Aug 19, 2005, 5:35 AM
Post #28 of 41
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 19
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Damn, Sask, I don't know how or what you did to your mugens, but mine lasted me almost a year of hard climbing indoors and out. Sounds like you either went too long in them or just beat the s**t out of them.
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deadpointman
Aug 22, 2005, 5:18 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
Posts: 176
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There's no such thing as my favorite bouldering shoe. It all depends on what type of problem I'm working on. For something that requires smearing or a great deal of foot sensitivity, I use 5.10 Anasazi Velcros. For very steep faces, roofs and any problem that demands crisp and powerful edging, it's all about the 5.10 Dragons. Well, that's my bouldering quiver--not necessarily a recommendation, though. If 5.10s don't fit your feet well, I wouldn't recommend this combo. However, I do recommend that, if you can afford it, own at least two bouldering shoes of different types. This is the only way you can expect to have the ideal shoe for just about any problem you get on.
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headchop
Aug 22, 2005, 6:00 PM
Post #30 of 41
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Registered: Sep 7, 2003
Posts: 302
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In reply to: Damn, Sask, I don't know how or what you did to your mugens, but mine lasted me almost a year of hard climbing indoors and out. Sounds like you either went too long in them or just beat the s**t out of them.
Mad Rock has had serious quality issues with several of their shoes, including the Mugens. He probably got a bad pair and you didn't. I had a pair where the dual-layer rubber started to delaminate after only a few weeks of wear. Still loved how they fit - great for everything except toe hooking. I've since gotten a second pair but they don't fit nearly as well as the first.
The best bouldering shoes are the ones that fit your feet the best. Quite simple, really.
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 8, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #31 of 41
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Registered: Sep 5, 2005
Posts: 28
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I think 5.10 Asanzis are good...
And V10s are hopefully good... i just ordered them a few days ago... hopefully they will fit/ be good
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zao479
Sep 9, 2005, 1:20 AM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Aug 20, 2005
Posts: 160
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I have a pair of 5.10 ascent that I really like. Good for smearing, and a padded heal for my can't afford a crash pad falls.
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jonzoclimber
Sep 9, 2005, 1:34 AM
Post #33 of 41
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 155
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La Sportiva Testarosas are amazing for anything......but pricey
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 9, 2005, 1:40 AM
Post #34 of 41
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Registered: Sep 5, 2005
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In reply to: La Sportiva Testarosas are amazing for anything......but pricey
Blah... La Sportiva shoes are better for climbing... I think...
Also, I heard the new Five Ten Galileos were amazing... but they look like asanzis... just white... hmmm...
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littlecheetah
Sep 10, 2005, 1:31 AM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: Sep 3, 2005
Posts: 9
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I really love my LaSportiva Katana's (women's). They are great for sport as well, but they start to hurt my feet pretty soon after putting them on. I like that they're velcro and easy to slip on and off and since they're mostly synthetic you can keep yarging on them to make them tighter. I like the slightly aggressive shape to them I can feel everything with them.
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joker
Sep 27, 2005, 8:16 PM
Post #36 of 41
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Registered: Aug 3, 2004
Posts: 5
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In reply to: ...Also, I heard the new Five Ten Galileos were amazing... but they look like asanzis... just white... hmmm...
They are simmilar but with a couple key differences. The Heel on the Galileos is less aggressive than the Anasazis, also the rubber is even better, so Galileos are the best in my book
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climbrox391
Sep 27, 2005, 8:54 PM
Post #37 of 41
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Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 65
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^^ I second that about the Galileos. I've climbed quite a bit with my Anasazis, but the break in period for the Galileos was much nicer to my feet than the Anasazi. They're more comfy and I think the rubber is superb.
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boulderer06
Oct 13, 2005, 2:47 PM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1
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its definately got to be the red chili x-cube its simply awesome iv been climbing it noe for abou ta yeah iv had 5.10 t rocks boreal zen red chili toro etc. but the x-cube are definately the best bouldering shoe
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dudeman
Oct 13, 2005, 6:50 PM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 4
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Galileos pown.
I've only had them for about a month, but theyre already my babies.
I wouldnt trade them for a damn thing.
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lostinvegas
Oct 13, 2005, 7:25 PM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 31
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Evolv Agros - the best down-toed slippers.
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edge
Oct 13, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
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In reply to: Evolv Agros - the best down-toed slippers.
Yes, definately. Much higher quality, better customer service, and design than the Madrocks. Once Evolvs become more readily accessible, I predict they will blow all others out of the water.
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