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ice season cometh
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rendog


Sep 9, 2005, 8:58 AM
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ice season cometh
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so here we are at the time when every ice climber starts to salivate, has sharpened the tools and crampons at least twice.

Yes folks once again we are drawing near to the coming ice season.

It is sept 9, cold outside, and i don't know about any of yous, but I've always got one eye on the mountains looking for those tell-tale smears that start to form indicating it is time to pack things up, and take your gear out for an exploatory walk.

Last year I made an attempt at R&D on Oct 18th, it was ready to see the FA of the season, only I wasn't :cry: . Ah well, i then had an entire month to climb my butt of before heading off to NS, where i was pleasantly surprised to find some very serious 5's and even a 6!!!! Unfortunatley, the partner situation down there was a bit lacking, so I didn't get out nearly as much as I wanted to. So now I'm chomping at the bit to get out, get up and get and get vertical.

just thought I'd put that little bee in everyone's bonnet and get thinking about projects, incomplete climbs that have to go down this year, and basically just get ready for the most fun you can have being cold, wet and miserable...


GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!!


iceisnice


Sep 9, 2005, 10:45 AM
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i hear ya. the training has already started. got a few "projects" in mind from last season. mostly mixed stuff. need to get ready for scotland. already started some dry tooling on some road cuts. for the coloradoans.....i'm planning on a week long trip to hyalite in jan and another week to cody in march......just to give ya a heads up, hehe.


neurostar


Sep 9, 2005, 11:07 AM
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I'm still tryin' to figure out which tools to buy!


iceisnice


Sep 9, 2005, 11:50 AM
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don't sweat it, its not about the tools


glyrocks


Sep 9, 2005, 11:52 AM
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Sike! I wish the ice season was that close here though... Even so, better believe I've got the tools out already.


angelaa


Sep 9, 2005, 11:52 AM
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when I was finally in the market for tools - a group of us got together and all borrowed or rented different tools - that way we could try a lot of different ones at the same time!
It worked out great - and I think we are all now pretty happy with the tools we choose! (hard to decide what to buy in a gear store)

Or you could just make the monster trip to the Ouray Ice festival and try stuff out there!!!


neurostar


Sep 9, 2005, 1:33 PM
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In reply to:
don't sweat it, its not about the tools

Yea, I'm not too worried about 'em. Just want to get something that works for me. I haven't picked any up because I haven't gotten to try much out yet.

I'll probably end up going with the aztars or rages unless I can try a pair of the grivels and like them more...


iceisnice


Sep 9, 2005, 6:53 PM
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kinda my point. there are no tools that "work for you". just get something and learn to use them. they are just tools (physically and metaphorically)


Partner euroford


Sep 9, 2005, 7:20 PM
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i hear ya. climbing ice is all i've been thinking about for the last week. i even had the tools out for a drytool session on the underside of my stairs yesterday.

its time to get all of my nuetrino's off the mammut slings and onto screamers :)

shopping for ice gear sucks. i went through that last year, buying screws pons and tools in one go. not only is it a financial crunch, but the decision making process and anticipation was agrivating. i'm glad this year all i have to worry about is the ice comming in!

and god i hope it does, last year was a bit of a disapointment. if its good and cold i actually have a quite a bit of climbing in the neighborhood, and world class shit up north.


Partner tattooed_climber


Sep 9, 2005, 7:54 PM
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my west coast ice guild is starting to show wear....i need new jerk off matterial

dry tooling is one thing, but i caught myself trying to place a screw into my wall the other day....wtf is up with that?

as well i've been listening to WAY to much ICED EARTH....wicked band but do you guys think there's an underlining message here? :?


anykineclimb


Sep 9, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Neurostar,
FWIW, I picked up Omega Alpha's for about $100 each at Acme climbing last year. http://acmeclimbing.com/...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=102 I took them to Ouray and really liked them. Even more than a few of the "top shelf" models. They've got a good swing and of course, the price is nice. I'd reccomend them for anyone starting out. great way to get a set of tools and get onto the ice.

This year, I bought Mantis' 8^)


neurostar


Sep 10, 2005, 6:02 AM
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In reply to:
kinda my point. there are no tools that "work for you". just get something and learn to use them. they are just tools (physically and metaphorically)

Well, there were some who's swings I liked better than others, and such. Some just didn't feel right in my hands too. Just tryin' to be careful before I throw down a bunch of money.

In reply to:
Neurostar,
FWIW, I picked up Omega Alpha's for about $100 each at Acme climbing last year. http://acmeclimbing.com/...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=102 I took them to Ouray and really liked them. Even more than a few of the "top shelf" models. They've got a good swing and of course, the price is nice. I'd reccomend them for anyone starting out. great way to get a set of tools and get onto the ice.

Cool. I'll check 'em out. Thanks.


climbingbetty22


Sep 10, 2005, 9:25 AM
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I'm still tryin' to figure out which tools to buy!

No kidding. Actually, I'm just trying to come up with the money to buy tools. Note to self: whoring one's self out in a small town is not an effective way to generate a large cash flow quickly.

Neuro--do you ever climb at the Barn at RIT?

As to the original post, I still have projects on the rock I want to finish up before the end of the season before I can even begin thinking about ice. Then again, I'm even less then a n00b on ice, so I don't really have 'projects.' Or everything is a project, depending on your prespective. But I live close enough to the Daks that it would be a crime punishable by law to not take advantage of it.


reno


Sep 10, 2005, 10:11 AM
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I don't want to talk about it. The only ice I'll be seeing for the immediate future will be the cubes I put in my cocktail glass... :evil:

Metro Phoenix forecast

Sat
H: 99
L: 79

Sun
H: 99
L: 76

Mon
H: 96
L: 75

Tue
H: 96
L: 75

Wed
H: 95
L: 74

Thu
H: 96
L: 74

Fri
H: 96
L: 74


lewisiarediviva


Sep 10, 2005, 12:03 PM
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We bought our season ski passes last night and of course the wind came into the valley as well and the kids are all excited practically praying that it would bring snow.

I was suppose to get on the ice last winter and it didn't happen- so this year will be my first time on the ice.

But I'm not salivating, I'm shaking in my boots, nervous with fear and excitement.


rustypouch


Sep 11, 2005, 10:00 AM
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Still waiting, eh?

I have been climbing ice all summer. Not very long routes, or even routes at all, but it is still climbing ice.

But it will be sweet when the waterfalls are in.


anykineclimb


Sep 13, 2005, 8:40 PM
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In reply to:
I don't want to talk about it. The only ice I'll be seeing for the immediate future will be the cubes I put in my cocktail glass... :evil:

Jeff, you know I got ya beat! and at least you'll be able to drive to the ice.
at least I'm making some sweet moolah in the meantime.

Oh yeah, heres our forecast:

today:
107/ 77
thu
108/78
fri
110/77
sat
110/78
sun
110/78


neurostar


Sep 14, 2005, 5:40 AM
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tools [In reply to]
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Well, I picked up a pair of tools. I found some used axars for real cheap, so I snagged those. Should be here in a week.

I guess I'll have to humor myself with drytooling around campus before ice season starts ;)


anykineclimb


Sep 14, 2005, 6:15 AM
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Sweet!
Axars were the 1st tool I used.


Partner devkrev


Sep 14, 2005, 6:29 AM
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anyone know any good polar/ice/winter gods to whom sacrafices can be made to insure a good winter?
later
dev


timd


Sep 14, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Icicles (pronounced icicleez) the greek god of vertical ice pillars can be called upon in our time of need!


darkside


Sep 15, 2005, 6:53 PM
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GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!!

I hear ya dude. I'm moving to Calgary in November and looking forward to more than the usual two weeks of Rockies ice. A whole winter..... :D
Of course I will actually miss the Ontario ice hunt and trips to Adirondack ice, but my tears will only make the ice fatter as I swing into new adventures in the Rockies.

As for the tool considerations, suck it up and buy good ones. I bought the Quarks when they first came out and still have no desire to try trading them in. In the long run, it's cheaper than trading up two or three times. The top end tools have little to distinguish them beyond personal preference so the usual advise remains - buy the ones that swing good for you.

This is yet another hopeless ice addict ready for treatment and reporting in.
:twisted:


neurostar


Sep 15, 2005, 9:33 PM
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As for the tool considerations, suck it up and buy good ones. I bought the Quarks when they first came out and still have no desire to try trading them in. In the long run, it's cheaper than trading up two or three times. The top end tools have little to distinguish them beyond personal preference so the usual advise remains - buy the ones that swing good for you.

Yea. My only thing is, I'm more in the market for alpine tools. I've only tried the Rages and some Camp tools (didn't like the camp tools).

Picked up the axars for cheap. Which works better with my budget. I'll upgrade or buy a second set of tools in the next 2 years most likely.


kachoong


Sep 15, 2005, 9:59 PM
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In reply to:
so here we are at the time when every ice climber starts to salivate, has sharpened the tools and crampons at least twice.

Yes folks once again we are drawing near to the coming ice season.

Last year I made an attempt at R&D on Oct 18th....

GAWD I LOVE ICE!!!!
Okay ren.... you can shut up now.... :wink: only kidding.... I'm just jealous, mate.... you guys are lucky to live in a country with regular ice routes and mountains that actually look like mountains.... I've been salivating for five years now.... my last waterfall route was in 99, my last alpine route was in 2000.... :cry: ....and now I'm moving to the states, only to have to start classes on the 17th january.... in Texas.... I waaaaaaaaaaaanna climb ice toooooooo!!!!! :? Boooo hooo hooooo....

:shock: :lol: ....alright, I'm ok now.... but I think my Grivel Rambo's, at last glance, are not only outdated SEVERELY and cramp my style, but they've rusted and fused to my crampons into one red, metallic pointy blob!


boulderinemt


Sep 20, 2005, 12:15 PM
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The plastics have been shined, the Air Tech lights have been sharpened and polished and the G14s have had their manditory file work. everything is in order. only crappy thing is i went for a little hike way up high in the south fork sunday thinking something waaaaaayyyy high might be forming. i wore shorts. it was hot. nothing even close. but it was a fun romp. mmmmm ice.....yum yum yum.

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