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mtengaio
Sep 12, 2005, 10:51 PM
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What's the best deal on bolts and hangers right now? Has anybody purchased these over the internet lately? It's been about a year since the last batch so I'm wondering if there are any new sites or what.
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rockprodigy
Sep 12, 2005, 11:36 PM
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You should see if you can get a local shop to give you a prodeal or at cost. By bolting routes, you are directly affecting their business.
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mrtristan
Sep 12, 2005, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: You should see if you can get a local shop to give you a prodeal or at cost. By bolting routes, you are directly affecting their business. Ditto. We can get them at our local shop for $1.50, for stainless 5-piece bolts. Hangers are $1-ish. -Tristan
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brianinslc
Sep 12, 2005, 11:55 PM
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In reply to: We can get them at our local shop for $1.50, for stainless 5-piece bolts. Hangers are $1-ish. Wow (and...no way). Stainless 5 piece Power bolts for that price? Can't be. Way way way below cost. You must mean grade 5. Stainless run about 8 to 10 bucks per. On the off chance you're correct, at Mountainworks? Please clarify! -Brian in SLC
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mrtristan
Sep 13, 2005, 12:03 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: We can get them at our local shop for $1.50, for stainless 5-piece bolts. Hangers are $1-ish. Wow (and...no way). Stainless 5 piece Power bolts for that price? Can't be. Way way way below cost. You must mean grade 5. Stainless run about 8 to 10 bucks per. On the off chance you're correct, at Mountainworks? Please clarify! -Brian in SLC Yeah, at Mountainworks. And I'm pretty sure they're stainless... Call up Mountainworks and ask Darren or whoever is there and ask to make sure. -Tristan... in Provo
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brianinslc
Sep 13, 2005, 12:32 AM
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In reply to: Yeah, at Mountainworks. And I'm pretty sure they're stainless... Call up Mountainworks and ask Darren or whoever is there and ask to make sure. Nope. Not stainless. Both the Hilti (studs) and Powerbolts are not stainless. Couple ways you can tell. On the Power bolts, if the bolt head has three slash marks kinda evenly spaced, its a grade 5. See: http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/boltid.htm Another way to tell, is that 300 series stainless bolts won't stick to a magnet. Anyhoo, Darren says that they very rarely stock any stainless bolts. Way too spendy, I'm supposing. Especially Powerbolts. If anyone has a source (especially in the 2 to 3 buck per range), please do tell. Brian in SLC
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billcoe_
Sep 13, 2005, 12:54 AM
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I can't answer the best place to buy that stuff. I can try and help answer the soon to arrive "why do you need all those hangers" question right now to get that out of the way if you think it will help, (I'll use your words since you pretty much covered it).
In reply to: for all of you stupid holier than thou i've been climbing for 75 years b---- out there, you should note that my profile hasn't been updated for a year, and that my friend, who has been climbing for 12 years and bolting for 5, and i are bolting a new canyon with advice from some local climbers who have been climbing and bolting many of the routes in utah. why is it that dumbass people have to post their worthless opinion whenever someone asks a simple question? don't they realize that no one really gives a s--- what they say anyway? just because you don't think i have any experience, forethought, ability, legal right, permission from the local alien population, etc. to go and bolt a few routes, doesn't mean i will even listen to you retards anyway. this is just further proof that this website is just a place for people to go and try to prove their superiority. a big thankyou to sed for not being a dick in expressing his opinion on the matter, and in answer to his post i will say that as a bolting team we have been the sole developers of this canyon and have thus far bolted 20+ routes into which we put much forethought and consideration about where we put bolts, and since we are really the only ones who climb in this area, i feel that it is safe to surmise that we are predominant in determining the ethics of this area. we aren't going to bolt any cracks or any other routes that have obvious placements, but even if we did, it is our decision since we are the ONLY ones developing this canyon. end of rant :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Good luck with the hangers, Bill
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asandh
Sep 13, 2005, 2:44 AM
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:)
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brianinslc
Sep 13, 2005, 2:15 PM
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In reply to: SS 3/8 Power bolts are just toooo delicate for most climbers to be using. Sure they are strong bolts but I'm talking about the installation. You need to torque them at around 18 ft/lbs and that DEMANDS a torque wrench which very few bolters seem to use. An over torqued SS 3/8 Power bolt that does not get snapped off is VERY dangerous. Yep. 15 to 20 ft-lbs recommended installation torque for a 3/8" stainless Power bolt. Also, the installation guide indicates 3 to 5 turns past finger tight. Which...might be too loose of a reference for stainless. An overtorqued stainless bolt can become a timebomb...hence the "S" in SCC... I'd recommend that folks installing stainless bolts at least spend some time with a torque wrench about the same length as their standard wrench to understand the amount of force required to achieve the proper installation torque. -Brian in SLC
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mtengaio
Sep 13, 2005, 2:41 PM
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Hey Billcoe, thanks for the reply. I feel the same way with people spraying their arrogance all over these forums – that's why I only get on this website when I have to. I'm a little torn between using wedge bolts due to the work invloved replacing them or if a bolt needs to be moved for safety, etc. but the cost is very attractive. Although it seems that I've had my equal amounts of frustration removing sleeve bolts that sometimes set wrong or get stripped. As far as hangers go, has anyone else been using the hangers off the Pagan Gear site? We've had good luck with them so far. And as far as asking the local shop to help out with bolts/hangers, they are of no use; they sell climbing gear but I doubt anyone there even knows what a prussik knot is! Ahh, one of the downfalls of living in Idaho Falls, ID.
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gentry
Sep 14, 2005, 11:46 AM
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the Pagan hangers are good. certainly the best deal.. but actually now they 1.50 on pagan while 1.29 on acmeclimbing.com Contact whomever is in charge of your local climbing organization and they know of a bolt hookup.
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rockprodigy
Sep 15, 2005, 3:37 AM
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With wedge bolts, all you have to do is drill the hole about a half inch deeper than you need. Then if the bolt ever needs to be "replaced" you just take off the hanger, and pound the bolt all the way int until it's flush with the rock. Otherwise, they are pretty foolproof and much cheaper than the Powers 5-piece.
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billcoe_
Sep 15, 2005, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: I'm a little torn between using wedge bolts due to the work invloved replacing them or if a bolt needs to be moved for safety, etc. but the cost is very attractive. Although it seems that I've had my equal amounts of frustration removing sleeve bolts that sometimes set wrong or get stripped. If the choice was stainless steel wedge anchors or steel 5 piece. I would go with the SS wedge. Looking at how long the steel 1/4 split shanks would last, I think that the Stainless wedge anchors will outlive us all. The 5 pieces in steel will eventually rust at the threads and need to be ripped out. I think that the Acme and Pagan hangers might be the same part , so might as well go with price. I've never seen less than .95/ea, and I think it's more than that now due to Stainless price increases. Good luck, sounds like quite a sweet project you guys have sunk your teeth into.
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flynbrian
Sep 15, 2005, 10:20 PM
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I have 45- 3/8" x 3 1/2" 5pc powers bolts. NOT stainless. If you are interested you can have em' for $1.80 each plus shipping. PM or e-mail me.
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norushnomore
Sep 16, 2005, 12:21 AM
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I prefer fixe hangers to others as the bolt hole is a bit to the side thus making bolt not being in a way of clipping I get FIXE anchors and hangers here (about $3.50 and 1.50 each): http://www.mec.ca And I buy my bolts here (70$ for a box of 50): http://www.toolup.com/productinfo.asp?id=WW-3830&Manuf=ITW+Ramset+Red+Head Having placed both I much prefer Trubolts over Fixe for a number of reasons (besides being much cheaper): 1. stronger 2. easier to place 3. crisp stop when tightening
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mtengaio
Sep 16, 2005, 9:39 PM
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Hey Mike, Thanks for the little tip on bolt hole depths with the wedges. What do you think about bolt lengths with those? Are people using the 3/8"x3" bolts or the longer 3.75"? I'm bolting limestone. Matt
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rockprodigy
Sep 20, 2005, 2:18 AM
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Hmmm...I don't know. If there isn't much cost difference, I'd go longer. There is a lot of variety in limestone though, so it's hard to say from a thousand miles away. In St. George, the limestone is so bullet, some people use only 3/8" x 2 1/4" Five pieces (not me, just people I know of). Of course, that would be suicidal in a place like American Fork.
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