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A new more efficient way of clipping.
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jimmyjamal


Sep 13, 2005, 10:37 PM
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A new more efficient way of clipping.
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I was mucking around a while ago and was thinking of different more efficient ways of clipping because i hate dragging the rope up with my hand to clip it, so here's what i can up with. You clip your draws on your loops with the bent gate, when you need to clip you grab one clip it to the rope and then clip it to the bolt. it seems to be a lot quicker and easier.
has anyone else thought of this already or heard of this technique?


t-dog
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Sep 13, 2005, 10:50 PM
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by doing so you'll be giving yourself bad rope drag as you drag the draw and rope up to the bolt, although if you are clipping at waist/foot level then I guess it wouldn't be too bad...


wetyeti


Sep 13, 2005, 10:53 PM
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way back in the day, thats how they were advertised to be used.


jimmyjamal


Sep 13, 2005, 11:04 PM
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My thought was you'd be getting less drag through the draw than you would through your hand.


horseonwheels


Sep 13, 2005, 11:10 PM
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Perhaps the best way is to wait until your waist is at the height of the bolt. This way rope drag is almost nothing since you're not pulling the rope up much. Also, if you blow the clip there won't be any extra rope out. Many times you can also grab the rope-end biner and clip that to the rope rather than the rope to the biner.


kalcario


Sep 13, 2005, 11:21 PM
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yeah but you've gotta switch your grip to the other biner to clip it to the hanger right? seems like you'd drop the draw and it'd slide down the rope. I've seen people just preclip the rope into the bent gates and rack the draws normally on the gearloops, except if you fall you'd rip your gear loops out...


risos


Sep 13, 2005, 11:35 PM
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[quote="horseonwheels"]Perhaps the best way is to wait until your waist is at the height of the bolt. This way rope drag is almost nothing since you're not pulling the rope up much. Also, if you blow the clip there won't be any extra rope out. Many times you can also grab the rope-end biner and clip that to the rope rather than the rope to the biner.
I tried this technique on sunday, i waited and waited as I held on for dear life but the bolt didnt come any closer to my waist.

No the truth is that its harder to pull the draw already clipped to the rope, especially if you already have a lot of rope hanging below you its hard to aim for the bolt and get it in the first time


horseonwheels


Sep 14, 2005, 10:34 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Perhaps the best way is to wait until your waist is at the height of the bolt. This way rope drag is almost nothing since you're not pulling the rope up much. Also, if you blow the clip there won't be any extra rope out. Many times you can also grab the rope-end biner and clip that to the rope rather than the rope to the biner.

I tried this technique on sunday, i waited and waited as I held on for dear life but the bolt didnt come any closer to my waist.

No the truth is that its harder to pull the draw already clipped to the rope, especially if you already have a lot of rope hanging below you its hard to aim for the bolt and get it in the first time

Yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that what I was talking about was clipping to the bolt first, then to the rope.


markc


Sep 14, 2005, 11:15 AM
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In reply to:
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No the truth is that its harder to pull the draw already clipped to the rope, especially if you already have a lot of rope hanging below you its hard to aim for the bolt and get it in the first time

Yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that what I was talking about was clipping to the bolt first, then to the rope.

I'm getting confused. Can you walk me through the process? At first you said clip the rope, then bolt. Now you're saying clip the bolt, then the rope?

I forget the context, but I've tried clipping a bolt after clipping the rope to the draw. Much like risos, I found the drag to be much worse than just grabbing and lifting the rope. I also felt like my movements were really rough while trying to clip the hanger. Imagine trying to thread a needle with a weight on the thread.


horseonwheels


Sep 14, 2005, 11:28 AM
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I'm getting confused. Can you walk me through the process? At first you said clip the rope, then bolt. Now you're saying clip the bolt, then the rope?

Yeah, I was just offering my suggestion for the most efficient way of clipping.

I should have been more detailed on my first post.

You're right, clipping to the rope first and then the bolt is a pain. I was saying to wait to clip the bolt and rope until your waist is at the bolt height. Then clip the bolt, and when you then clip the rope you barely need to pull up any slack at all.

This way is especially useful in trad where rope drag can be more of an issue, and even potentially lift out placements. In sport it is sometimes more of a challenge given that (if it wasn't rap bolted) many bolts are at chest to chin height because this is the easiest place for the driller to place them. However, if it's possible to delay the clip until your waist is level with the bolt/draw, rope drag and pulling up slack are now a non-issue.


thorne
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Sep 14, 2005, 12:01 PM
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You guys are making this too hard.

1) Climb to the best stance for clipping.
2) Remove draw from gear loop.
3) Clip onto bolt.
4) Reach down and grab rope.
5) Clip rope to lower biner.

If the bolt is too high to clip in this manner, then

A) Climb higher and follow steps 2-5

or add the following to your sequence.

4a) Put bit of rope in mouth and hold by biting.
4b) Reach down and grab rope.

Also, practice clipping the draw until it becomes second nature.

My preferenced method is

1) Hold rope with thumb and index finger.
2) Grab biner with your "bird" finger.
3) Rotate thumb, rope and index finder up to the bottom of the gate.
4) Using your thumb, push rope through gate.
5) Make sure rope is in place and gate closes.

Make sure not to backclip.


markc


Sep 14, 2005, 12:13 PM
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You guys are making this too hard.

I beg to differ. The OP made an unclear recommendation, and several of us were trying to figure it out. I don't find clipping particularly challenging most of the time, but I was open to considering something different on a Wednesday afternoon.

Like you, I'd recommend finding the most secure stance for clipping rather than worrying too much about my position relative to the bolt.


slablizard


Sep 27, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Back then ( 90's) there was a shirt with a sling sewed on for quick clips, generally 3, you would clipp the biner that goes on the bolt there with the rope already clipped on the other biner.
The cheap alternative was just do the same on a regular shirt for a "chest quick clip"


md3


Sep 27, 2005, 3:45 PM
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I don't understand why we see so many comments on clipping in the sport context where people suggest waiting till the bolt is at your waist. If you are on a route where you need to worry about how you clip, it usually has pretty limited options - meaning usually one with occasional variations- for a clipping stance/hold for each bolt - especially the ones in the midst of difficult sections.


karate_pete


Sep 27, 2005, 4:20 PM
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i've also see in both videos and friends clipping the rope w/ the rope between their thumb and index finger. does anyone know how to do this. it seems much faster than the usual way of clipping.


jimfix


Sep 27, 2005, 5:47 PM
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If your doing a deperate reachy clip, you dont want the rope in the draw slowing you down. If not, the double action shouldn't be to hard.

Or you could just stop being a dirtbagger and climb trad


bryanboonern


Oct 2, 2005, 9:04 PM
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[Put bit of rope in mouth and hold by biting.]

Very dangerous! Make sure you don't use your teeth. Put you lips over your teeth when grabbing it in your mouth. I have heard of an instance where someone fell will the rope in his mouth. On instinct, he bit down, and ripped all his front teeth out of his face. OUCH!!!!!!!!

I guess of course if you are in the geezer age group then gumming it should work just fine. Or if you are from Kentucky. :lol:


thorne
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Oct 3, 2005, 4:58 AM
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In reply to:
[Put bit of rope in mouth and hold by biting.]

Very dangerous! Make sure you don't use your teeth. Put you lips over your teeth when grabbing it in your mouth. I have heard of an instance where someone fell will the rope in his mouth. On instinct, he bit down, and ripped all his front teeth out of his face. OUCH!!!!!!!!

Definitely use your lips over your teeth.

You say "very dangerous", yet this is a common practice.

About that instance where he "ripped all his front teeth out of his face" - Does anyone have firsthand knowledge of such an accident? Sounds like a myth to me.


pieter


Oct 3, 2005, 5:40 AM
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About that instance where he "ripped all his front teeth out of his face" - Does anyone have firsthand knowledge of such an accident? Sounds like a myth to me.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1129792#1129792


thorne
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Oct 3, 2005, 6:00 AM
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I had to ask. :roll:

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:


ajkclay


Oct 3, 2005, 7:43 AM
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well, if you scream like a terrified nancy when you fall then the rope still being in your teeth isn't going to be a problem ;)


knightstreet


Nov 21, 2005, 2:38 PM
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I know....

You have to drag the rope up to the biner first until you have enough slack to hold the rope between your thumb and the next finger on (much the same way as you hold a pen). If you have too little slack it's hard to clip. Too much slack and the whipper is just a bit bigger.

You then steady the biner with the your middle finger (flip the bird finger) and rotate your hand about that finger such that you open the gate of the quickdraw with the rope.

It doesn't work in all scenarios but if you can get it right it's 'quicker than a rat out of an aqueduct'.


maracas


Nov 21, 2005, 2:51 PM
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Remember that in sport bolters mostly put the bolt where it is easy to clip from. And they are getting used to do it higher up than the waist, so the recommendation to clip at waist level does not always apply, since the best clipping stance will not be at waist level with the bolt. On easy routes or on sections not the crux, you will find more places to clip from than what the bolter had in mind, but on difficult sections, there are not that many.


climbingaggie03


Nov 21, 2005, 3:07 PM
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karate_pete wrote
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i've also see in both videos and friends clipping the rope w/ the rope between their thumb and index finger. does anyone know how to do this. it seems much faster than the usual way of clipping

This is the way I usually clip (if I understand you right) I have the rope between my thumb and pointer finger, and I grab the basket of the biner with my middle finger then, flip the rope into the biner.

It's not too hard, just grab a draw and a bit of rope and practice clipping it while you are watching tv, or slacking at work :) Make sure you practice with both hands, and with the gate of the biner facing left and right.


kachoong


Nov 21, 2005, 3:08 PM
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I was mucking around a while ago and was thinking of different more efficient ways of clipping because i hate dragging the rope up with my hand to clip it, so here's what i can up with. You clip your draws on your loops with the bent gate, when you need to clip you grab one clip it to the rope and then clip it to the bolt. it seems to be a lot quicker and easier.
has anyone else thought of this already or heard of this technique?
I'd say most climbers have *thought* about it.... although it's very ineffective.

In reply to:
My thought was you'd be getting less drag through the draw than you would through your hand.
Quite the opposite.... when you grab the rope it doesn't run through your hand (your hand holds the section of rope you want to clip). If you pull up the 'already-clipped' draw, the rope runs through the biner, making things more difficult.

In reply to:
No the truth is that its harder to pull the draw already clipped to the rope, especially if you already have a lot of rope hanging below you its hard to aim for the bolt and get it in the first time
The other real problem with this method is the high probability of backclipping yourself if you clip the draw the wrong way.... which is difficult and time-consuming to reverse.

In reply to:
Perhaps the best way is to wait until your waist is at the height of the bolt.
This is always my preferred option. Pulling up slack actually increases your fall distance (if you fall clipping) than if you climb your waist to the bolt. Problem is that a lot of climbs are bolted so you clip high from a stance (as maracas outlined above). In this scenario I sometimes clip the quickdraw from the stance and then climb on clipping the rope to the draw once my waist reaches the clip.

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