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doktor_g
Sep 14, 2005, 6:53 PM
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Thanks for any Beta,
I'm going to the Valley soon. Will I need pins, heads or hammer on either of the following routes?
1. West Face of Leaning Tower - didn't last year.
2. South Face of Washington Column - never been on it.
Any info would help my budget if you know what I mean.
Also can I get Leeper Cam hooks at the Mtn Shop in the Valley?
Thanks,
Grover
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areuinclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 7:18 PM
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the southface of the column goes clean at C1. for this route, you need not one single hook of any type. the rack in the super topo guide is dead on.
i think you can free all but 3 or 4 pitches of the thing in the 5.10 range.
on pitch2, you will see a small finger crack that leads up a dihedral. if you want to free that pitch, there is a .10a crack even further left. i think that crack in the dihredral goes at .11c. i would suggest bringing a hammer and a funkness and you could EASILY walk off that climb with a set or 2 of booty'ed nuts.
on pitch 3 (just before dinner ledge) if you haul from the tree that is before the 5.6 ramp, the hauling is MUCH easier as you avoid getting the pig stuck. then haul to the ledge.
if you have time you can fix pitch 4 (kor roof) and pitch 5 and drop a single 60m back to dinner ledge from the anchors on p5.
the rap route on the super topo is dead on and much better than North dome gulley
the mountain shop does sell cam hooks and has many in stock.
never done WFLT but it goes clean according to the topo.
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phaedrus
Sep 14, 2005, 8:16 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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lambone
Sep 15, 2005, 4:59 AM
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Hey Grover,
going will Bill right!? Have fun man.
The mountain shop has cam hooks, they have just about everything there...
You really shouldn't need a hammer on either of those routes. They are like the most trade of all trade routes and all heads are totaly welded in there. neither have probly been nailed since the 70's or 80's, unless by some ignorant fool with no clean ethic.
FYI- I think Skull Queen is a cooler route then the South Face, and the Prow is better then both of those. Don't do WFLT again bro, we got that one allready...there are so many routes in the Valley, do something new. Hell go up the Captain, you're ready for it!
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theishofoz
Sep 15, 2005, 5:43 AM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2004
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if u want beta on climbs or any questions about yosemite, ask the folks over at supertaco... most all the people are valley climbers
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lambone
Sep 15, 2005, 6:02 AM
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fwiw- if you ask over at Supertopo if you should bring pins on WFLT or SFWC, prepare to be flogged. :twisted:
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chrismcnamara
Sep 18, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
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yeah, the mtn shop has everything. i would definitely recommend cam hooks for the leaning tower. although, cam hooks are a little spooky at first, and if if it is your first time using cam hooks... that kind of exposure on the WFLT is pretty intense. but i am sure you can find some place to practive cam hooks before you go. buildings, boulders, etc
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