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happiegrrrl
Sep 14, 2005, 9:18 PM
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....Someone says they climb 5.12, in an attempt to impress me with their vertical prowess? ...I'd say "I'll do my best to keep tension light as I prussic up to your belay. You first, sailor!" and hand them the rope.
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shorty
Sep 14, 2005, 9:44 PM
Post #28 of 114
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In reply to: In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.... As long as it's not some lame, effeminate sport-climb. :wink: |
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acacongua
Sep 14, 2005, 9:49 PM
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I'm so glad someone brought this up. A couple of times I heard someone say she is a 5.11 climber just because she sent one 5.11 that she worked over and over and over and over on TR.
You should also add area to that because grades vary. For example, "I am a solid 5.12a RRG climber."
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crimpandgo
Sep 14, 2005, 10:03 PM
Post #30 of 114
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In reply to: In reply to: However, climbing one 5.12 does not make you a 5.12 climber, it makes you someone who has climbed 5.12. Semantics! Besides, that should read 5.12 s -CI512
What is the s for? plural? orrrrr, oh never mind :oops:
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equal_1
Sep 14, 2005, 10:05 PM
Post #31 of 114
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first of all i climb(enough said about my skill) but i would like to ad that most of the time i find that the ones that climb at the level you are talking about iether want everyone to know that they can climb 5.12 ,,, or they would rather you jsut think of them as a climber ... and not a rating. if all you are doing is chasing a number you wont be climbing long ...... ( just a note even tho i can climb harder grades i love to find new to me routes that are fun to climb not just becuase they are hard.. enjoy your self out there ....... we are people not numbers
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fracture
Sep 14, 2005, 10:40 PM
Post #32 of 114
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In reply to: Whatever! What's s--- is when some boulderer tells you that just because they can send V5, they're a 5.12 climber. Nonsense!
How about if they put some bolts in it first? There are 5.12 sport routes out there that are basically just a V5 boulder problem.
(Of course, usually if you find a V5 boulder problem on a route, you're probably talking about a 12d/13a or so).
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stabla
Sep 14, 2005, 10:40 PM
Post #33 of 114
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I would just like to say that i agree w/ pbjosh and equal 1, i have been climbing for oh say four years now and i have seen so many who thrive on the fact that they think they can climb any 5.12. These same people are the ones i see getting burnt out with climbing because all they do is chase grades and try to impress. Well if anyone fits ionto this category then i would highy suggest jumping on some old favorite 5.6 and realizing how much fun climbing really is, or any route easy or hard!
cheers and thanks for replying
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fracture
Sep 14, 2005, 10:42 PM
Post #34 of 114
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In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.
Yup yup.
In a Sport Climbing context, "5.x climber" usually means "5.x redpoint climber".
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roughster
Sep 14, 2005, 10:47 PM
Post #35 of 114
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WhyTF is everyone so obsessed about trying to categorize, belittle, and demean others accomplishments so much?!?!?
I have climbed with Dave and he would climb circles around 90% of the people on this site. Who gives a flying crapola if someone says they are "5.12" / "5.13" / "5.14" climber?!?!? Just smile and say "Thats great".
All bullshit stops when the rubber meets the rock. The burden is not on you. If anything, crack a beer and start the heckling. But until then, who cares!
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climbrc
Sep 14, 2005, 10:54 PM
Post #36 of 114
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Does Boulder Canyon Sport park count?
Then I must be a 5.16 climber..
Sweet!
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saxonyclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 10:55 PM
Post #37 of 114
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Do you get a special little badge, or is there a secret handshake for 5.12 climbers?
It's not as though we get branded or wear a scarlet NOOB for not climbing at a specific grade.
If you or anybody else is concerned with grades, then the truth should come out.
Example:
Question: "Dude, can you crank 5.8?"
Answer: I'm pretty solid onsighting 5.8 in the gym. Outside I do well on most sport climbs, but slabs and small holds are tough for me. When I climb gear routes, I can usually onsight smaller cracks, but fist cracks at that grade have me hanging on every piece blah blah blah."
You get the idea, give em your life story if you want to, just be honest.
p.s.- forget about spraying, but use this helpful method of response when someone is sizing you up as a partner.
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fracture
Sep 14, 2005, 10:56 PM
Post #38 of 114
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In reply to: These same people are the ones i see getting burnt out with climbing because all they do is chase grades and try to impress. Well if anyone fits ionto this category then i would highy suggest jumping on some old favorite 5.6 and realizing how much fun climbing really is, or any route easy or hard!
I don't think climbing non-challenging routes is as fun.
I also don't play video games on the uber-easy difficulty setting, ask to take back moves in chess, compete in races against people who have amputated legs, start fist fights with elementary school children, or use the little gutter-bumper things at the bowling alley.
Maybe I'm just weird, or "chasing numbers", though. :roll:
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mcfoley
Sep 14, 2005, 10:57 PM
Post #39 of 114
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In reply to: To say you climb a grade you should be able to onsight or quickly redpoint a reasonably high percentage of climbs at that grade, across all types of climbing - sport, crack, slabs, OW, etc. .... Just because you've climbed a grade once does NOT make you a climber at that level, I agree.
ESPECIALLY IF IT WAS IN THE GYM!!!!
F'n posers!!!
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crimpandgo
Sep 14, 2005, 10:58 PM
Post #40 of 114
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In reply to: WhyTF is everyone so obsessed about trying to categorize, belittle, and demean others accomplishments so much?!?!? I have climbed with Dave and he would climb circles around 90% of the people on this site. Who gives a flying crapola if someone says they are "5.12" / "5.13" / "5.14" climber?!?!? Just smile and say "Thats great". All s--- stops when the rubber meets the rock. The burden is not on you. If anything, crack a beer and start the heckling. But until then, who cares!
Hmmmm
Quote: "I should know. I'm a 5.12 climber. "
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jdouble
Sep 14, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #41 of 114
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: However, climbing one 5.12 does not make you a 5.12 climber, it makes you someone who has climbed 5.12. Semantics! Besides, that should read 5.12 s -CI512 What is the s for? plural? orrrrr, oh never mind :oops:
Yes, all, be VERY, VERY, VERY careful here. To say "I climb 5.12", you HAVE to climb at least two. Otherwise you have to say "I climbed a 5.12".
Seriously though, I have climbed 5.12 (Yes,more than one! And I love to spray!) but consider myself a 5.10 climber, and just barely. I guess it varies from person to person on what they value, thus none of it can be compared/contrasted because there is no set standard. If you are interested in finding out someones level, ask lots of questions......
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gunksgoer
Sep 14, 2005, 11:13 PM
Post #42 of 114
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In reply to: In reply to: To say you climb a grade you should be able to onsight or quickly redpoint a reasonably high percentage of climbs at that grade, across all types of climbing - sport, crack, slabs, OW, etc. .... Just because you've climbed a grade once does NOT make you a climber at that level, I agree. ESPECIALLY IF IT WAS IN THE GYM!!!! F'n posers!!!
I agree... i can send 5.12s in the gym (and i dont mean rediculously under graded 5.12s) but i only consider myself a 5.10 or 5.11 climber.
In reply to: Once you get a clean ascent of a 5.12, you're a 5.12 climber. You've climbed 5.12.
Are you sure your not trying to say this...?
In reply to: Once you get a no falls ascent of a 5.12...
Because a no falls ascent and a clean ascent are totaly different. Get it Right!
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golsen
Sep 14, 2005, 11:23 PM
Post #43 of 114
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In reply to: There's a real difference. I've climbed 5.13 sport, 5.12 trad, 5.11 OW and slab, but would only call myself a solid 5.10 leader to be honest.
Good on ya. After I on site soloed some 5.10's and not fallen on a 5.10 in 10 years I decided I too was a 5.10 climber.
This argument has probably been around since man rated climbs.
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squiffany
Sep 14, 2005, 11:55 PM
Post #44 of 114
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I'm sort of new to climbing...but from what I gather from this site people are really hung up on grades. My understanding is that routes are graded to help you assess your personal performance and/or limitations. If you really care that much about 1) what everyone thinks you can climb or 2) what someone says they are climbing regardless of the truth in their statements then you are missing the point and spirit of climbing altogether. If someone is making false statements about their abilities, how in the grand scheme of things is that really affecting you?
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crimpandgo
Sep 14, 2005, 11:59 PM
Post #45 of 114
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In reply to: I'm sort of new to climbing...but from what I gather from this site people are really hung up on grades. My understanding is that routes are graded to help you assess your personal performance and/or limitations. If you really care that much about 1) what everyone thinks you can climb or 2) what someone says they are climbing regardless of the truth in their statements then you are missing the point and spirit of climbing altogether. If someone is making false statements about their abilities, how in the grand scheme of things is that really affecting you?
What in this thread makes you think anyone really CARES about the grade?
Could it be that most just like to talk about it instead?
Someone stated earlier that most of the folks that reall spew about there grades are short timers and probably quit long before they will have to prove their worth at the crags.
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kalcario
Sep 15, 2005, 12:02 AM
Post #46 of 114
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In sport climbing, whatever you can usually redpoint 2nd try is your level; in other words what you average between consistently onsighting and projecting. If you consistently onsight 12a's, do 12c's second try, and have successfully projected a number of 13a's, you get to call yourself a 12c sport climber.
In trad, to call yourself a 5.12 climber, you gotta be able to do everything at that grade from slab to off-width, while carrying 2 ropes, a pulley, jumars and full rack, onsight while placing all gear on lead, 2000' off the deck, third day on the wall. In other words, whatever grade you're capable of consistently onsighting, under those conditions, is your level. Sorry, redpointing/projecting doesn't count in trad, since those tactics basically turn the trad route into a sport route, especially since wiring the gear effects trad way more than sport. Oh, and tape gloves are cheating. By that criteria I was an 11c trad climber who sport climbed 5.12 trad routes, and now I'm a 12c sport climber.
Got it?
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squiffany
Sep 15, 2005, 12:11 AM
Post #47 of 114
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Registered: Jul 18, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm sort of new to climbing...but from what I gather from this site people are really hung up on grades. My understanding is that routes are graded to help you assess your personal performance and/or limitations. If you really care that much about 1) what everyone thinks you can climb or 2) what someone says they are climbing regardless of the truth in their statements then you are missing the point and spirit of climbing altogether. If someone is making false statements about their abilities, how in the grand scheme of things is that really affecting you? What in this thread makes you think anyone really CARES about the grade? Could it be that most just like to talk about it instead? Someone stated earlier that most of the folks that reall spew about there grades are short timers and probably quit long before they will have to prove their worth at the crags.
I can't see why people would talk so much about grades if they didn't care about them. This whole thread is about grades. Obviously people care a great deal about them. That's fine. Care. They help you to see your progress and, as I said before, to know your limitations. It just seems to me people are worrying about grades in all the wrong ways. Just my observation.
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waterman
Sep 15, 2005, 12:14 AM
Post #48 of 114
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to get this caught up in #s it to grossly miss the point.
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angry
Sep 15, 2005, 1:07 AM
Post #49 of 114
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OK, OK, so how does this work?
Climbed 5.12 (yep)
Onsighted 5.12 (yep)
Trad (uh-huh)
Without tape (you betcha)
Crack (usually)
Wide Crack (when I get lucky)
Slab (not a chance)
Face climb with gear (nope)
Well, I never considered myself a 5.12 climber anyway. Though I do like to climb that grade.
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pbjosh
Sep 15, 2005, 1:12 AM
Post #50 of 114
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In reply to: I can't see why people would talk so much about grades if they didn't care about them. This whole thread is about grades. Obviously people care a great deal about them. That's fine. Care. They help you to see your progress and, as I said before, to know your limitations. It just seems to me people are worrying about grades in all the wrong ways. Just my observation.
Nothing better to do is why people talk about it. Folks are sitting around bored at work / home / school passing time shooting the breeze on the intarweb, talking about what they do love, climbing.
If you don't want to talk about grades stir up some other interesting topic which we'll all talk about again, since everything gets covered every few months in a big loop loop loop loop....
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