|
sypher2049
Sep 8, 2005, 9:53 PM
Post #1 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 52
|
Im only looking for an alternative to what I am doing now. I dont want to leave gear on the wall. When I finish a climb there is nothing more annoying when there is no belay station already set up with a bener or chains. So I end up leaving my own gear up there. Or sometimes there the end of the route is only one (1) bolt. WTF is that. No double bolt. no chains. Nothing but 1 Freaken bolt. Ya I feel safe being lowered on that. What i am getting at is there any "tricks of the trade" someone that can throw a "hey ive done this" or "hey I do that"..... I dont mind leaving gear I just dont like making a habit out of it.
|
|
|
|
|
mustclimb69
Sep 8, 2005, 10:44 PM
Post #2 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 479
|
This has come up a number of times, the texas rope trick will work but takes some skill and a bail biner or to save money a screw link from a hardware store cheaper ans easy to use.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Sep 8, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #3 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
I smell a TROLL...
But I'll bite...
WFT...WTF are you talking about?
"belay station" at the TOP of a route???
ever heard of a WALK OFF!!!
Ask the person who put up the route!!!
What are the local ethics for the area?
Or like the previous response, buy a quick link and RAP off that manky bolt... don't get lowered off...
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Sep 8, 2005, 11:10 PM
Post #4 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
Oh yeah!!!
...and Quit yer bitchin'!!!
|
|
|
|
|
sypher2049
Sep 8, 2005, 11:20 PM
Post #5 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 52
|
Well first off McFoley,
not all routes end at the top of the rock. And second its a little hard to talk to the person who made the route since there arent any guide books in Crete, and it kinda helps if you speak the language here. And third, correct me if I am wrong, I have only been climbing for a few months, but isnt the place at the end of a route called a belay station? so you can belay your partner up, or set up to top rope, or even lower yourself. You know the place where there are usually two bolts connected together with a sling, or chain. And I wasnt bitchen, I was making a comment. But hey thanks for caring. Keep Climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
asuclimber
Sep 8, 2005, 11:23 PM
Post #6 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2005
Posts: 78
|
This weekend someone showed me a trick that might be what you are looking for:
1. Find the middle of your rope, make a bight, and thread the bight around whatever you are going to anchor to. (so you don't actually thread the single strand of rope through, but the whole bight)
2. Now you should have a bight and two strands of rope on opposite sides of your anchor.
3. Pull 1 Strand through the bight/loop, creating another bight.
4. Pull Strand 2 down to tighten this slip knot.
5. Pull Strand 2 (the same one you just pulled to tighten, through the new bight) and pull Strand 1 to tighten.
6. Pull Strand 1 through the new bight, repeat steps 3-5, untill you have a chain of slip knots.
7. Leave the last bight/tail a foot or two long.
8. Rap down the strand that does not realease last bight when pulled. (this will be fairly obvious when you see it)
9. To release the knot alternatingly pull down the two strands of cord to pop out each slip knot in the chain (pull1-pop, pull2-pop), repeat untill the knot releases.
Although you are only rapping on a single strand, you will need to be able to reach both strands afterwards to release the knot. Notice the knot cannot fail unless both strands are tugged in alternating succession. If the large tail gets pulled through for whatever reason, the knot will "lock" on the next slipknot.
I do not know what this knot is called (the mag... knot or something, i think), but it seems like it would work. It would be interesting to hear if anyone knows exactly what knot it is, and how it affects the breaking strength of the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
sypher2049
Sep 8, 2005, 11:25 PM
Post #7 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 52
|
Oh ya I dont think I made myself clear on my OP. When there is only one bolt at the end of a route. What do some of you all do when you lower yourself. SAFELY. cleaning your route on your way down. I never thought about the screw bolts I like that. thanks
|
|
|
|
|
wjca
Sep 8, 2005, 11:39 PM
Post #8 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 7545
|
Not all climbs are going to be set like a gym climb. Sometime you're gonna have to leave gear. That is the price to climb that route. If you don't like adventure climbs, stay in the gym or find more established crags. On routes with two bolts for you to rap off of, someone has had to leave gear. Better them than you though I guess.
Oh yeah!!!
...and Quit yer bitchin'!!!
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Sep 8, 2005, 11:48 PM
Post #9 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
If there is only one bolt and no walkoff you have a few choices.
#1. Bolt looks good . leave a screw link or old biner, tape the gate shut with sport tape and rap 8^)
#2. bolt looks pretty funky. back it up with your own gear. the Fat guy (or the leader) raps first and the skinny guy (or the second) cleans the back up and raps verry smoothly :?
#3 the bolt is totaly bogus, old 1/4" buttonhead with leaper hanger so rusted it looks like it is about to crumble. back it up with stoppers and leave as much gear as is nessicary to stay alive.
#4 bolt sucks dog snot but no crack in sight for gear, too hard and run out over more bogus crap to downclimb. leave bail biner and pray a lot while you rap. If your both up there you may want to unclip from the rap while your partner raps :shock: This yeller technique may keep you alive at least temporarily if the anchor blows and kills your partner :twisted:
#5 You know the anchor sucks so you bring a bolt kit up there and fix it 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
happiegrrrl
Sep 9, 2005, 1:16 AM
Post #10 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
|
Do what my friend did when climbing new routes with me:
- Notice that your newbie partner was told to buy BD ovals and/or d biners when they asked "what biners should I buy?" And that they have several; more than any non-leader needs, to rack that gear they bought too soon, because they wanted to practice placements....
- Extoll the virtues of the keygate biner to this person at your earliest opportunity. Do NOT wait until the moment when you need a leaver biner; they will clearly see through the ruse. Aallow them to borrow a few key gates when you are with them, so they can see for themselves how utterly clumsy those notch gates are in comparison
- Next time you have to bail off a route (or create an impromptu station), tell them someone must sacrifice a biner for the good of the many, and it might as well be the shitty notch gated one, and that they should think of it as a good thing, because with enough of these situations, they will soon need to buy new biners, and can then buy key gates.....
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Sep 9, 2005, 2:13 AM
Post #11 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
I saw this in climbing (or one of those...R+I???), anyway. Bring another rope up and rappel off the anchor with it or off of a leaver piece. BUT, don't go off belay; clean your gear on rap while your belayer takes in rope - if something fails you have all your pro backing you up and you face a fall no great than if you were leading the route. In the mag they used a 7mm rope as a rap rope (cheaper, perhaps? Lighter for sure).
Best
Brent
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Sep 9, 2005, 3:07 AM
Post #12 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
In reply to: Not all climbs are going to be set like a gym climb. Sometime you're gonna have to leave gear. That is the price to climb that route. If you don't like adventure climbs, stay in the gym or find more established crags. On routes with two bolts for you to rap off of, someone has had to leave gear. Better them than you though I guess. Oh yeah!!! ...and Quit yer b----'!!!
Or you can replace the hangers with rap rings...
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Sep 9, 2005, 4:06 AM
Post #13 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
tradman's post was just about the funniest post I have ever seen on the internet. I laughed harder and harder with each line, by the end I was in tears!!!!! EVERYONE must see this post! Imagining all those situations is so rediculous...... especially the last one... thats so funny! Hate to be the first guy!
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Sep 9, 2005, 4:44 AM
Post #14 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
Ok sorry for the rant before...
It comes down to being responsible for yourself...expect the worst.
If you don't like what you are finding (no bolts/chains) then install some.
$hit...It's Crete afterall...who cares!!! (just kidding!!!)
|
|
|
|
|
daithi
Sep 9, 2005, 11:47 AM
Post #15 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
|
In reply to: Or sometimes there the end of the route is only one (1) bolt. WTF is that. No double bolt. no chains.
Are you sure you have actually reached the end of the route? :) Those routes sound pretty poorly equipped.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Sep 9, 2005, 12:14 PM
Post #16 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Joe, If you haven't uncliped from the anchor while your partner raps you probobly haven't climbed in the desert much 8^) We bailed off of drilled angles in Zion once that were so loose that you could pull them out with your fingers and slip em back in again :shock: Did a lot of praying slithering down that rap trying my verey best to NOT put any outward pressure on the rope :? Another fine rap station in Nevada was missing the nuts that were supposed to hold the hangers on the 1/4" studs in crumbly sandstone :( the hangers were held on with sport tape and the rock was crumbled arround the studs so they flexed downward when weighted :shock: If I knew then how short 1/4 in studds are I would have downclimbed 30 ft and left a 3.5 friend in the splitter!!! Our basic rule at the time was the leader gets to rap first with the back up and the second MUST clean the back up and pray :roll: I am a lot smarter these days and don't mind leaveing enough gear to stay alive 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
vanclimber
Sep 9, 2005, 12:35 PM
Post #17 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 202
|
Man greece sounds ghetto. If there was only one bolt at the top of a climb here, I would keep climbing until I found the other ;)
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Sep 9, 2005, 2:06 PM
Post #18 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
If you're that concerned then don't climb it until your manky ass is 84 pounds and you don't have to worry about breaking anything.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Sep 9, 2005, 2:44 PM
Post #19 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: I saw this in climbing (or one of those...R+I???), anyway. Bring another rope up and rappel off the anchor with it or off of a leaver piece. BUT, don't go off belay; clean your gear on rap while your belayer takes in rope - if something fails you have all your pro backing you up and you face a fall no great than if you were leading the route. In the mag they used a 7mm rope as a rap rope (cheaper, perhaps? Lighter for sure). Best Brent
This is a good trick to have in your bag. But if the potential lead falls on the route are unclean (ledges, what have you), then it may be safer to rap off the single bolt. Kinda depends on the situation, bolt, etc. Here's a link to Luke Laeser's Climbing Magazine Tech Tip.
http://climbing.com/techtips/tttrad241-2/
|
|
|
|
|
leavingne
Sep 14, 2005, 4:49 AM
Post #20 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 20
|
In reply to: This weekend someone showed me a trick that might be what you are looking for: . . . repeat steps 3-5, untill you have a chain of slip knots. . . . Although you are only rapping on a single strand, you will need to be able to reach both strands afterwards to release the knot. |
|
|
|
|
njb
Sep 14, 2005, 5:36 AM
Post #21 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2005
Posts: 38
|
In reply to: Joe, If you haven't uncliped from the anchor while your partner raps you probobly haven't climbed in the desert much 8^) We bailed off of drilled angles in Zion once that were so loose that you could pull them out with your fingers and slip em back in again ...
Well, that just spooked the crap out of me.
|
|
|
|
|
robbleebob
Sep 14, 2005, 5:41 AM
Post #22 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 16
|
In reply to: In reply to: Joe, If you haven't uncliped from the anchor while your partner raps you probobly haven't climbed in the desert much 8^) We bailed off of drilled angles in Zion once that were so loose that you could pull them out with your fingers and slip em back in again ... Well, that just spooked the crap out of me.
me too :shock: you da man!! :!:
|
|
|
|
|
zao479
Sep 15, 2005, 11:47 PM
Post #23 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2005
Posts: 160
|
You could always add a second bolt, and some chains would be a good idea. If you climb a route that needs work stop waiting for everybody else to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
Sep 23, 2005, 6:39 AM
Post #24 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
If it has at least a pin scar within 20 feet of the last bolt, place two nuts in it, and rap off. Don't forget to remove all the bolts on the way down...
Don't install anymore chains or bolts then you have to people. It's really starting to get on my nerves. Bolts every 5 feet on a 5.7 slab are not really needed.
|
|
|
|
|
jacobbelsher
Sep 23, 2005, 8:22 AM
Post #25 of 30
(8261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 147
|
In reply to: Well first off McFoley, And I wasnt b----, I was making a comment. But hey thanks for caring. Keep Climbing.
you were definitely bitching, friend.
PS. don't be such a pansey
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
