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superbum
Sep 16, 2005, 2:05 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
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Howdy! I am moving (this time for quite a while...) to Bishop, CA and am most interested in doing long eastern sierra routes. I am wanting an approach shoe that will get me into the backcountry as well as scramble and climb moderate terrain (think Matthus crest tarverse...mostly 4th and low 5th class, but with a few 5.7 sections, some of them downclimbs). I need them to be DURABLE (sole and upper), STICKY, COMFORTABLY SOLID, and UNDER $100.00!! I am looking at the Montrail D7 but it looks too climbing specific...I am also considering the Vasque Pingora or Valhalla, but they look to clunky for good climbing! Where's the middle??? Any info on these or other shoes that sound like me is greatly appreciated. Oh, yea, probably no five-tens either...
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jschwartzel
Sep 16, 2005, 3:39 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2005
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5-10 guide tennies took me up the approach and route of East Butress on Whitney in excellent comfort. They cost me about $89 and have been beat to hell, but they are still going strong
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stuckinmidwest
Sep 16, 2005, 4:59 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2004
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I have the D7's and like the performance, but they feel flat on my foot if I'm wearing them all day. There's no rubbing anywhere they just hurt the bottoms of my feet. I'd highly recommend trying them on for a long time and get a good feel for them.
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asandh
Sep 16, 2005, 5:03 AM
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Footwear and female companionship are two very personal choices ... ... but I strongly 2nd the 5.10 Guide Tennie :)
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superbum
Sep 16, 2005, 5:18 AM
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Thanks for the replies so far!
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euroford
Sep 16, 2005, 12:23 PM
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i have both the Merrell Chameleon II Stretch and a pair of 5.10 Guide Tennies. the tennies are better climbers, but they are much worse hikers. after a long day they will leave your feet battered compaired to a real trail shoe. i'm on my third pair of Merrell's, they always seam to fit well, last a long time and perform well. i've climbed low 5th class in them and scrambled easy stuff all day. but i prefer takin climbing does for any sustained 5th class climbing.
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dirtyleaf
Sep 16, 2005, 4:21 PM
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I have the montrail D7's with superfeet insoles. This combination is very supportive and very comfortable. They also handle pretty well on slabs and approaches. For really long approaches I'd rather have a running shoe(on trail) off trail I'd opt for the D7's.
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tradrenn
Sep 18, 2005, 10:12 PM
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I wouldn't buy those shoes again (Vasque Pingora) I only use mine on a climbing day or trips and I can allready see them to start to fell apart. They cost $135.00 in Canada. The Stealth rubber on them is so nice. Very sticky.
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seraphless
Sep 18, 2005, 10:47 PM
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In the most recent Climbing Magazine gear review the Mad Rock Fanatic approach shoes were the editors pick. They come to $70 and are the best out of all that were tested. They are also the lightest and can be used to climb up to 5.7. There has also been rumor of people climbing 5.11 in them. Very comfortable, durable, cheap, and overall a good buy. 503.797.1952 www.madrockclimbing.com (edited for the website address and #)
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lilclimber18
Sep 18, 2005, 10:55 PM
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i've been through a lot of shoes, and ive realized that there is only one answer for this: La Sportiva Muiras. They are possibly the best shoe ever made. Very well built, and absolutely incredible. You say that you want them under $100. You are missing out. Muiras are worth the extra $$. if you ever are willing to pay more, go for the Muiras. You'll be glad you did.
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areyoumydude
Sep 18, 2005, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: In the most recent Climbing Magazine gear review the Mad Rock Fanatic approach shoes were the editors pick. They come to $70 and are the best out of all that were tested. They are also the lightest and can be used to climb up to 5.7. There has also been rumor of people climbing 5.11 in them. Very comfortable, durable, cheap, and overall a good buy. 503.797.1952 www.madrockclimbing.com (edited for the website address and #) I have climbed up to 5.11 in these shoes and they are great on the trail.
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 18, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2005
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In reply to: i've been through a lot of shoes, and ive realized that there is only one answer for this: La Sportiva Muiras. They are possibly the best shoe ever made. Very well built, and absolutely incredible. You say that you want them under $100. You are missing out. Muiras are worth the extra $$. if you ever are willing to pay more, go for the Muiras. You'll be glad you did. Yeah too bad there not much of an approach shoe...
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superbum
Sep 19, 2005, 12:09 AM
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Yea, I used to have a pair of muiras, but they fell apart after about ten miles on the trail...Ha ha, ok, just joking...thanks all for the replies! Any more info on the fanatic would be cool...
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unrooted
Sep 19, 2005, 1:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
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The vasques are great for climbing in, I don't think they are too clunky at all, I've climbed up to 5-8 in them. I've had my Valhalla's for almost a year, with two months in the valley and they look and climb great still. If you want something that will fall apart fast get 5-10's. My friends like the D7's.
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climbinginchico
Sep 19, 2005, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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If it weren't for the under $100 bit, I would totally recommend the Aku Stone XCR. I scored a pair for free at work (the colors are slightly different on each shoe, so Aku warrantied them and I got a free pair). Handmade in Italy. Nice leather upper with a big rand for protection. Gore-tex XCR, so it's waterproof and breathable. Vibram rubber sole that I have climbed 5.8 in and looks barely worn. Super comfortable with my Superfeet inserts, not so comfortable without, but that's just my feet. However they are significantly more than $100 retail... Like $139. But I love em.
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