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tradrat
Jul 29, 2002, 5:48 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2002
Posts: 22
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Hey RCer's,
I was wondering if you all could help me out. I need some beta about the Third Pillar of Dana. If you have any beta about rack, approach, descent, and climbing in general that would be great. I was wondering which would be better on the last pitch. The 5.9 loose flakes or the .10b finger crack? Would this route be in a partners range if one climbed 10a and the other 10b/c? Let me know and any beta is greatly appreciated. It'd be great if you replyed to the post or pmed me. Thanks all. Climb safe.
Alpine Cheer,
Adam
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smithclimber
Jul 29, 2002, 6:04 AM
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Registered: Feb 15, 2002
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I've got a copy of the Supertopo for the Third Pillar. It's got all the beta you'd need.
Seems like taking the thin section is favored over the loose flakes. Apparently the protection on the loose flake section is questionable. Looks as if the thin section is much better protected (very small cams).
How would you feel about a third wheel going along? I've been wanting to do the Third Pillar for a while now, but can't find partners for it. I'd love to go do it if you are up for a third.
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hallm
Aug 20, 2002, 5:50 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
Posts: 170
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Legend has it that only the top three pitches are really worth doing and that you can accomplish this by rapping off the top.
The descent is a 3 class gully to the right, if memory serves.
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climbjs
Aug 20, 2002, 6:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2002
Posts: 379
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tradrat- download Supertopo.com's guidebook for Tuolumne. It had killer descriptions of route, descent, approach, etc. Have fun!
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pbjosh
Aug 20, 2002, 7:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Rapping into a climb and skipping the bottom of a backcountry climb based on "purported" information is lame and wanker and stupid and in very poor style.
A big part of backcountry climbing is the adventure, the full day, the length of the route, dealing with uncertainty (bad rock, routefinding, weather, impending darkness, cold, wind, etc).
Rappelling in and climbing 3 pitches is wank.
Besides, if you run your pitches out 200' you can do it in (don't quote me but I think) 5 pitches if you take the ledge start instead of the direct start from the bottom.
josh
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rrrADAM
Aug 20, 2002, 7:23 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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3rd Pillar is my favorite climb.
I took 2 people up that climb.
Pro to 3" will get you up.
Approach is long, 2.5 hrs, but not arduous.
I will rap in when I do it again, as the 4th Class downclimb is very exposed, and takes about 45 minutes. Clean your raps as you climb back up.
Can be protected well.
And the .10b pitch is P5, not the last. The last pitch is the best... 5.9(G) fingers, mantles, and NO flakes.
rrrADAM
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-08-20 12:25 ]
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hallm
Aug 22, 2002, 11:15 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
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Hey,
The first time someone has flamed me. Cool. I feel all nice and toasty.
Doing all 6 pitches is killer. I just feel the quality climbing is found at the top.
P.S.
Josh, how is Pacific Beach this time of year. I actually have a job possibility down in SD, so if I take it, maybe we can get together and spit at each other.
Have fun.
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pbjosh
Aug 22, 2002, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Hey hallm,
PB is rocking this time of year. Lately it's been high 60's till noon then low to mid 80's till evening then 60's in the evening again. Can't beat it. I've lived here a couple years and it's barely ever gotten over about 90 or under about 50.
Plus there is WAY less fog south of Mt. Soledad (PB, Mission, OB) than there is north of Mt. Soledad (La Jolla, Del Mar, etc).
josh
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