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boominjeep
Sep 19, 2005, 4:14 PM
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So I was at the NRG and had to pull a roof then up a dihedral finger crack. So the roof was over with and halfway up the dihedral a foot popped of on the lay back and there ya go. a 25 footer!!! Good stuff!
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caughtinside
Sep 19, 2005, 4:16 PM
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Um, yeah. Good stuff...
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crimpstrength
Sep 19, 2005, 4:17 PM
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nice 8^)
that #3 looks so strong when its placed right
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rockgoat
Sep 19, 2005, 4:33 PM
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Which route?
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musicman
Sep 19, 2005, 4:42 PM
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sweet fall, yeah, there's nothing like a good number 3 camalot, looks super solid.
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grk10vq
Sep 19, 2005, 5:07 PM
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Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault.
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paulc
Sep 19, 2005, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: So I was at the NRG and had to pull a roof then up a dihedral finger crack. So the roof was over with and halfway up the dihedral a foot popped of on the lay back and there ya go. a 25 footer!!! Good stuff!
Wow, 25 whole feet. Spraying about this kinda makes me thing people like to write more about the sport of falling than climbing.
No gear in the dihedral finger crack? Or just run out for fun? Either way perhaps not the most well thought out protection options, eh?
Paul
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camhead
Sep 19, 2005, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: So I was at the NRG and had to pull a roof then up a dihedral finger crack. So the roof was over with and halfway up the dihedral a foot popped of on the lay back and there ya go. a 25 footer!!! Good stuff!
In other words...
In reply to: I DID NOT SEND
so.....
what was it you were bragging about again?
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billcoe_
Sep 19, 2005, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault.
Like this? http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/35838
makes me wonder what would have happened if the piece had pulled?
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boominjeep
Sep 19, 2005, 7:01 PM
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Not bragging at all just saying. Anyways I don't remember the route sand yes there were placements on the dihedral but my foot slipped when I was in the middle of placing gear
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renohandjams
Sep 19, 2005, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault. |
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gunksgoer
Sep 19, 2005, 9:22 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault. Like this? http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/35838 makes me wonder what would have happened if the piece had pulled?
Just one of the reasons why i like to stab in 2 pieces before the crux and before/after long runouts.
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healyje
Sep 19, 2005, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault.
I'll assume this is a troll because it's a pretty clueless statement if not...
Sounds like a clean fall and that's what the gear is for...
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dirtineye
Sep 19, 2005, 10:52 PM
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Just out of curiosity, were you stemming or in a full lay back with both feet on the same side fo the dihedral, when your foot came off?
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fear
Sep 20, 2005, 12:11 AM
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20' here on a screamed blue alien. Blew half the stitches. 70' or so of 8.6mm rope out...
Absolutely perfect downward facing placement though...
Still stupid...
-Fear
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brad84
Sep 20, 2005, 12:56 AM
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Interesting fshizzle.
In reply to: It's all about the placement. There is no small piece (or big actually) that is unilaterally better than it's competition.
-definately, this is key.
Ive been meaning to pick up some ballnuts; they just seam like a good option for thin pro.
As far as whippers on blue aliens goes, I have taken several. A few of them were good sized falls too. Personally, I've never had pro rip (tiny or otherwise)
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schnoz
Sep 20, 2005, 1:06 AM
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In reply to: Lowe Balls or Ballnuts are weird. I've never ripped them. I have friends who have NEVER had one stay put. On one route I ripped a black alien. So I tried again with the blue, it held a few falls but looked like it was coming out, so I tried yet again with a ballnut. It held like a champ until I was tired of winging off the same moves that I couldn't do. It's all about the placement. There is no small piece (or big actually) that is unilaterally better than it's competition.
fshizzle, how was the ballnut to clean afterwards? I've heard stories that if you fall on them (or even set them too hard) they aren't possible to clean.
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tim
Sep 20, 2005, 1:13 AM
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In reply to: Ive been meaning to pick up some ballnuts; they just seam like a good option for thin pro.
I assume you'll hear this repeatedly, but here's my voice to the chorus: "yes! buy all three of the original sizes! they are cheaper and more solid than tiny cams in parallel or slightly-tapered placements!"
In reply to: As far as whippers on blue aliens goes, I have taken several. A few of them were good sized falls too. Personally, I've never had pro rip (tiny or otherwise)
I took a 35 footer onto a #3 steel nut in an aid fall and it held like a champ... hell I've fallen onto a cam hook when a small (#00) TCU that I was hanging off of, popped. My guess is that the following factors, in order of importance, determine whether a piece will hold:
rock quality > user skill >> gear quality
Maybe 50% > 40% > 10%?
Anyways, to the OP -- congratulations on learning to trust your gear placement skills, and on safely earning the right to do so :-)
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grk10vq
Sep 20, 2005, 2:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Gear is a good time when it holds. When it doesn't its another story, and from what i've been reading, its usually the GEARS fault. I'll assume this is a troll because it's a pretty clueless statement if not... Sounds like a clean fall and that's what the gear is for...
Troll my ass!!! Focker. Its an innuendo to the countless posts lately about "failing" aliens and the suing of gear companies. Is Everyone Kidding?
I find a lot of things need to be spelled out for people. Did you notice the word gear in Caps? Look into a dictionary healyje-- I before E.
Carry on...
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climbsomething
Sep 20, 2005, 2:44 AM
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*banging head into wall*
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rngrchad
Sep 20, 2005, 2:57 AM
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I would imagine, taking a 25 footer, you would make note of the route you were on. C'mon man, that is standard part of nrg spray....."dude I was plug'n route x working that dihedral, all stemmed out way above my-last piece and my foot popped, I took a redunkulous whipper ...dude it was stellar, almost like flying."
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