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The Nose - some questions
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Jul 29, 2002, 11:03 AM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 7

The Nose - some questions
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Me and my gal is coming over to Yosemite for our first time in September.

The Nose is our primary objective. We have about 14 days from arrival in SF, shop some gear, head to Yosemite, CLIMB and then leave.

(We're going on a roadtrip to LA and back to SF after the climbing part)

We're climbed several walls here in Norway but since we're never been in Yosemite...

We're thinking of The Prow as our first climb there to get familiar with the rock. Suggestions and comments regarding this? (We're in the max C2/C3 kind of fun..)

The Nose:
We're coming in early September. In the Supertopo it says it's normal to "stand in line" for 2 days before starting the climb. How does this really work? Do you hang around the base? Place your haulbag there? What is the "better way"?

I read that most people fix to Sickle Ledge and rappel down for a last day on the deck before blasting of early next morning. I don't like fixing that much and would rather just leave the ground and climb to the top. Is this "the worse way"? If so, why? Considerations/tips?

If you do fix to Sickle, do you stay at the base or in camp? What about the haulbag? Thieves and stuff? Tips?

The King Swing
I've done some pendulums and lower-outs but not as big as the King Swing. Two short or one long? Pros and cons?

After the pendulum: I've read that some people (at Fish's topo) recommend to just run it out to the belay to reduce rope drag. If you fall near the belay it must be a hellofa fall with the risk of getting the boot up your arse. Is this the better way?
Is the ropedrag so bad you can't lead normally and set pro behind? Tips here is welcomed as I've heard that many f..k up here..

What is the better way to do the King Swing traverse? Dr. Piton?

With time closing in on Aug. 30 (ETA SF), expect more questions from a Norseman...

Other tips is welcomed!!

I am sooo ready I can hardly sit still..This trip has been on my agenda for almost two years. My regular climbing partner bailed out on me when my gal got better than him climbing. She rocks and if I'm not mistaken she could be the first Norwegian female to climb the Nose if we get up (or when....I want that climb!!)


[ This Message was edited by: zeph on 2002-07-29 11:05 ]


Jul 29, 2002, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2002
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The Nose - some questions [In reply to]
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The Nose-I have climbed this one time as my first wall, so here is what I will say...

First, for the most awesome beta on this route (in my opinion) that is in print, check out Hans Florine's new speedclimbing book published by Falcon. Rather than studying the Supertopo and trying to ADD efficiencies, see how people SPEED climb the nose, and subtract off the tactics that don't make sense for a regular ascent or that you aren't comfortable with. There are some great ideas there and it is the same SuperTopo.

Now for your questions, the ones that I have comments on

1. We did not have to wait in line. Basically, you will be able to figure it out when you see who is on the route and who is climbing up Sickle ledges.

2. I have "heard" that it is horrible to haul your bags up Sickle ledges, but know it has been done. I have no first hand experience with this.

3. We just stayed in camp when our ropes were fixed. We made an agreement on a starting time with some Frenchies that were ahead of us and that we shared some of the fixing with.

4. I did the King Swing lowerout in one lower with a seperate rope. I have not heard of people doing it in two.

5. After the King Swing by the leader...well, two things here. It is best if you can wait to leave pro until you are above the pendo point. We did this. But, it is pretty hard crack climbing in my opinion (one of the more awkward pitches on the route). So, I don't know how bad it is if you clip pieces, since we didn't. Second, if you leave NO PRO at all, there is a way to totally avoid the lowerout. This is a cool option for the people who can pull it off. This is covered in Hans description as well.

Good luck and have fun.

Please look for me in the Valley! I would love to cheer you guys on when you are on the wall, especially if I am up there at the same time. I will be in Camp 4 with "Team Hungary". We are all coming in at the same time as you are--about 8 from Hungary and me and my boyfriend from Seattle. I will be in a light blue Westfalia Vanagon.

[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-07-29 15:43 ]


Jul 30, 2002, 6:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
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The Nose - some questions [In reply to]
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Hi Zeph

The Nose was my first Grade VI and I have done it three more times since then. I only hauled bags fixed lines to sickle once. The other times I just hauled up the first few pitches of the route which is NO PROBLEM at all. Actually the crux is carrying the pig up the forth class approach pitch or hauling it up Pine Line and negotiating it up past the "pine" and up the broken rock leading to the begining of the route. Choose your poison.

Sickle ledge is uncomfortable. Live with pain, it's a wall! Or take a sedative. Another alternative during cluster crowd season is to take a portaledge and just bivy whereever you wind up, (or fix to whereever you wind up and pitch the ledge where you can.

The Prow is a fine warmup for the Nose aid. If you aren't totally solid leading 5.10 fist cracks with a heavy rack on, learn to crack jumar before you jump on the route.

Here's some beta from George Bell (originally from Bill Wright) about the King Swing:

The King Swing is next, Steve lowers off and pulls himself to the
second pendulum point by using a fixed rope. From here I lower him
another 20 feet until he is able to swing around the corner into
a left facing dihedral.

Steve hauls the pig over and I keep the end of the haul line. Then
I thread it through the anchors and Steve lowers me off. I clip
my jumars into the lead line and swing over. Bill Wright's trick
once again works perfectly."

I've done this trick and it works great.
I loop the rope through the second King Swing pendy point so I can pull it through and have the rope directly to me from the belay. Then I leadout for a while, then , when it gets harder and the fall worse, I stay clipped into two pieces and back clean. Once I figure I'm high enough, I'll leave some pieces in nearing the belay.

The Nose is windy and communication can be a problem with pendy logistics and suck. I carry Talkabout radios and that helps immensely.

Have a great climb. Get speedy! It's a long way between bivies if you don't have solid wall experience




Jul 31, 2002, 3:08 AM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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The Nose - some questions [In reply to]
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I just ordered that book! Tx for the tip. I'll try to look you up in Y.

If you see one male 193cm and one girl 165's probably us...

I was actually born in Stanford hospital, CA in -69... After I "popped out" I was laying by the look-in window in the infancy? (right word?) with a poster: Big Scandinavian Baby and all my vitals posted...supposed to grow to over 2m according the doctor, but stopped short a couple of inches...hehe

Tx man. I've read the trip reports several times myself and it's good to get confirmation on what's the "better way".

Nice with the loop on the second swing!
(Thread loop through pendu point, clip loop into a biner on harness?)

The aiding with backcleaning is probably the better way after the pendu.



Jul 31, 2002, 8:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2001
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The Nose - some questions [In reply to]
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When I did The Nose, I climbed and hauled to Sickle Ledge directly, thus beating the queue. You must get up early to be ahead of anyone jugging up directly.

It is much better to climb alpine style than to fix.

You can click here to read about my ascent of The Nose.

As for some beta on doing pendulums, you can click here to read about some of my suggestions regarding pro beyond the pendulum.


Dr. Piton

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