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First El Cap Solo???
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johnhenry


Jul 29, 2002, 11:22 PM
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Alright, considering all factors,i.e. moderate difficulty/nailing, ease of hauling, low crowds, beauty, length, etc, what is your vote for the best, first, El Cap solo???


rickoldskool


Jul 29, 2002, 11:34 PM
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ZODIAC!


[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-07-29 23:42 ]


justsendingits


Jul 29, 2002, 11:40 PM
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ya,Zodiac is cool,all except the crowds!!!--I am thinking about my first grade 6 solo,I will try one in late Sept. how about the Muir??

Easy aiding,easy retreat if needed.low crowd factor.and I can haul using the fixed lines up to grey ledge.But I might just haul on the Muir itself,seems less like cheating.

Anyway,your guys thoughts?


johnhenry


Jul 29, 2002, 11:40 PM
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Zodiac is the quintessential El Cap route, but I want to take my time and dont want people crawling over me a couple times a day...

Rich has intrigued me with the Muir. How close is the lower 1/3 of the Muir to the Heart Ledges rappels? Is it possible to use these to work this section before you blast from Mammoth?

It is a long route!

[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2002-07-29 23:45 ]

[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2002-07-29 23:45 ]


rickoldskool


Jul 29, 2002, 11:49 PM
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You said "all factors"! Crowds MAY be the only problem. It' your first Elcap solo? Your not gonna be flying, let'em pass if necessary. Enjoy.

Easy hauling
Goes clean, little nailing
Relatively short
If you get in trouble crowds are a plus
classic line etc...


[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-07-30 18:36 ]


justsendingits


Jul 29, 2002, 11:56 PM
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T-trip is good as long as you can finish it!!The retreat certainly sucks!!--But you won't have the crowds.

Beware--A bear has been working the base of the Captain during the day,thrashing water and gear!!Hang everything!! I threw a piton a one while on the 3rd pitch of T-trip,did not hit him,he did not even care.

The next day I watched him walk right up to a party at the base of Zodiac,they thru rocks at him and he left.But then u still have to deal with the rattle snakes!!!

Cheers R


karlbaba


Jul 30, 2002, 6:55 PM
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I'm going to guess the Muir would seem like a long, long solo. It's possible to pendy over to the fixed lines if necessary from the top of pitch 8

I soloed Zodiac before the crowds and it was sweet. T_Trip is a good, less crowded solution but you better be sure you can do it cause it would suck to bail from after pitch 4.

Lurking Fear? Don't know, haven't done it yet.

Have fun

Karl


passthepitonspete


Jul 30, 2002, 7:49 PM
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I fervently believe, that if you are to do something as bitchin' as to solo El Cap, and therefore to join The Club, then you should solo something that is longer, harder and more committing than anything you have yet climbed even with a partner!

This is what you call 'upping the ante.'

Your quest begins with your announcement to the entire world of your intention.

EVERYONE solos a trade route first. This is rather plain vanilla, don't you think?

Perhaps you should have some balls and solo something hard.

You may die a horrifying death, but no matter what, you will have an adventure.

Remember, you are embarking on a voyage that you are pursuing for no other reason than its difficulty.

Why make things easy on yourself?

Think about such things.

Cheers,

Pete


freeclmr


Jul 30, 2002, 10:53 PM
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maybe it's because I'm so hyped on Freeblast that my vote would be for the Triple-Direct. The (rope)solo to Mammoth was awesome and the line continuing looks incredible. I'm currently threatening my wife about not stopping at Mammoth again this weekend, but rather continuing for 2-3 days to the top......but then, there's the whole job thing and 'responsibility' thing to the family to iron out......ugh, sucks to be needed.
...BUT, NEXT YEAR,...oh, yes!!!


johnhenry


Jul 31, 2002, 1:30 AM
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Thanks for the great info!

Now I am debating between the Trip and Zodiac for the end of May or first of June next spring. The crowds and drip factor(under the overhang on the trip) will probably determine it. I do like the commitment you all speak about on TT.

I will also seriously consider Dr. Piton's advice as well but, the fact is, I avoid death like the plague...

Thanks and keep it coming! John

[ This Message was edited by: johnhenry on 2002-07-31 01:33 ]


rollingstone


Aug 2, 2002, 4:20 PM
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johnhenry...was he not also a famous steel driving man??
For what it's worth (with a nod here to Stephen Stills and the great Buffalo Springfield), I think Dr. Piton is on the right track here. I defer to his assertion that if you want to solo El Cap, you may wish to consider pushing your personal limits technically as well as physically. IMHO, if all you want to do is climb alone on the Big Stone just to see if you can physically manage all the weight, enough water and the right gear to see you through storms and such, you could do a pitch a day and still get up some of the easier routes.
I have thought of soloing a longer route like the Muir, but mostly for historical considerations. Check out Royal Robbins account of his second ascent of the route, in nine days, I think. No fixed lines, no fanfare, he just went up and did it, and this was when there were only four routes on El Cap. You probably will find few crowds up there, either...good luck.

[ This Message was edited by: rollingstone on 2002-08-12 15:32 ]


mrhardgrit


Aug 9, 2002, 8:09 PM
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"Upping the ante" eh Pete?!

Well, I guess this is as good as place as any to announce my intentions for my first solo of El Cap (I've admittedly soloed other stuff, but not El Cap).

In Sept I'm going to solo Zenyatta Mondatta - indeed I did have other intentions for a different possible solo, but a certain someone (did I say Pete?) got first dibbs!

Well, I've said it now, and I'll be darned if I'm going to back down!

Tom

[ This Message was edited by: mrhardgrit on 2002-08-15 16:40 ]


passthepitonspete


Aug 11, 2002, 8:41 PM
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You crazy bugger!

I thought Zed-Em was pretty stout!

I'd call it NTB+/DFU

You are most emphatically "upping the ante," and this type of sick behaviour is highly endorsed by Dr. Piton.

Good luck - yer gonna need it!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!

P.S. I have beta. For sale. For the usual price. Think "pig"!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!

[Ooh, that was a good one. Nice to know I have some influence around here. Crackaddict told me tonight my ranting about chasing your dreams and going for it had a positive influence on him, and look where the heck it got him!

Which makes him a FAR CRAZIER BASTARD than you!!!!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!]


justsendingits


Aug 11, 2002, 8:54 PM
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Wow!!!---Z.M.--your first Captain solo?? That is putting your Balls on the railroad track as we say around these parts!!!!All I can say is sharpen those hauling skills!!I failed on my last solo attempt of T-trip,due to lack of preperation.(getting my hauling wired)---I am going to try the Muir for my first solo of the Captain!!!--I will be ready this time!!!

It's 11 pm. here in St.Lou, and I am heading out again into my backyard where I have my pig rigged in the trees,using the Chongo 2-1 haul ratchet. practice,practice,practice!!!!---I will try and be in the valley by the end of Sept.--hope you guys are still there!!!

Cheers!!!
R

[ This Message was edited by: justsendingits on 2002-08-11 23:32 ]


justsendingits


Aug 11, 2002, 8:56 PM
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Had my harnes on for that last post.HHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!-------------why do people think i am weird????


mrhardgrit


Aug 12, 2002, 3:40 AM
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Don't you just love it when ou're scanning around for beta on a route you intend to solo, when up comes a report absolutely flaming the route and making it sound like choss-pile!

See;

http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/zm.html

Hmmmm! Might bring my bucket and spade to put that sand in!

Anyone out there, done Zed-Em (for those Brits and PTPP) and think otherwise?

Tom


passthepitonspete


Aug 12, 2002, 7:27 AM
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Too funny, Rich!

I can imagine you out at night hauling your bag of rocks from a tree!

Ya just gotta love that kind of passion! It's that kind of attitude that gets you to the summit.

Tom, don't be put off by mixed reports on Z-M. It's a superb line if for no other reason than it was climbed by Jim Bridwell.

Chris Mac told me it was a great route, and that is precisely why I chose it.

I have heard it dismissed as A2 and described as a choss heap, but neither is true.

It's a great line, and highly recommended by Dr. Piton. It's also sustained and will keep you thinking pretty well the whole way. But there is nothing totally desperate.

Besides, it's too late to back out now!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!

[You may find it a bit less chossy now - the thousand-pound block I was nailing that decided to part company with the wall at that particular moment, with myself attached, is no longer a concern for you. You can click here to read about my twenty-five foot screamer on ZM.]


mrhardgrit


Aug 17, 2002, 4:15 PM
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Pete,

I remember you telling me that story about the screamer you took pulling that block off ZM when we were sat round a fire on the summit of El Cap watching your Wall Flowers burning. The tale scared me shitless!. Little did I know that I'd be committing myself to the same madness a year later eh??!

Aim for this year... do a route on El Cap before PTPP does! Sometimes doesn't seem that there are that many left!

Tom


twrock


Aug 26, 2002, 3:47 PM
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So other than the long approach, the bad hauls on the upper section, and the ever-so-long slabs at the top, how would Lurking Fear be for a solo climber? (And "no" this is not a big announcement; maybe something along the lines of a potential fantasy.)

I am curious about that approach. My extremely minimal wall experience only involves Washington Column which is a very nice approach in my opinion.

edit-Oops, I forgot about my aborted attempt on the Regular Route on Half Dome (a long time ago in a place far, far away...). Now that is a long approach for Yosemite!

[ This Message was edited by: twrock on 2002-09-04 23:40 ]


rollingstone


Aug 26, 2002, 3:57 PM
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twrock: I think you need to clarify what is meant by a long approach. In Yosemite, Lurking Fear is seen as a long approach because it takes about two hours if you are fully loaded with haul bag and the like to hike up below the Salathe Wall and reach the base of the buttress. I went up there last June, but an "incident" on the 5th pitch precluded my partner and me from finishing the route. I cannot speak for the upper section, but we found nothing that would not be doable. Although Chris Mac describes this as a trade route, I should note that we saw no one in three days on and around the route, what with hiking in, climbing some of it, bailing off, and hiking out. It's a great line!! Very clean cracks that eat Aliens...


twrock


Sep 4, 2002, 9:45 PM
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Hmmmm..., there seems to be a bit of conflicting information coming my way about the approach to Lurking Fear. I've heard everything from "it's a little shorter than the approach to the Column" to "it's two hours of torture." Supertopo suggests that it's 15-20 min. from the parking lot to the toe of the Nose and another 20-30 after that to Lurking Fear (35-50 min. total).

I suppose it depends on how much gear you are carrying, but the basic question is how do the two approaches compare given that the same amount of gear is being carried. I know it doesn't even start to compare to the approach to the Trango Tower. I'm just curious to how it rates compared to other YV approaches.


rollingstone


Sep 5, 2002, 12:05 PM
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Ron: my reference to two hours refers to humping up all gear and a fully loaded haul bag, all in one trip; in reality, with no load, one could make the approach from the car to the base of the route in under an hour. If you were to go up and do the West Face, and treat it as a free climb, you could get to the base of the route in almost the same time. W. Face starts about 75-100 yards farther than Lurking Fear...

While it is not as short as the Nose or Salathe, it's certainly not like going up to Half Dome. In all, it might be a little further than the Column.

This is how I recall things from last June.


twrock


Sep 5, 2002, 5:04 PM
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Thanks for the clarification, Mick.

I had gotten some PM's and other "reports" as well. The variety of experiences is quite interesting.

I had a friend call me crazy for telling people that the approach to Washington Column is not bad at all. He thought he was going to die. Maybe since my first big wall approach was Half Dome, everything else seems "not too bad." Or maybe I'm a little on the masochistic side, and I enjoy the torture of humping solo loads up to the base of big walls that I subsequently bail off of. In that case, Lurking Fear might be perfect!


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