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happiegrrrl
Aug 31, 2005, 4:09 AM
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eh, the way I see it (or, am going to insist on seeing it, anyway!) is that I am simply a romantic, seeing the world through a perspective where an old rope becomes a magic mushroom.....surely the type of person who would be fun to spend a day climbing with..... speaking of which, I will be in search of a partner for Saturday, if anyone is interested.
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mountainman
Aug 31, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Trip report, on a non drug related topic.
I found Jeff the Climber on the New York Climbers Forum for Tuesday at the Gunks. However, itr was going to rain, so we met Monday at 8PM at the Deli
We only had his headlamp, so he would lead with it, then I'd lower him off, take the light, follow and rap off. We did Horseman, Laurel and Rhododenron. It was amazing fun.
Without visual cues, here was no sense of exposure, . It was harder to see foot placements. Better to stick to fairly easy climbs for night climbing.
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gunked
Aug 31, 2005, 1:31 PM
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In reply to: Someone stuck this girl in that tree!
How in the world did you come up with that link???
Where do people find this incredibly obscure $hit?
And YES, you're explanation is definitely better than Mike's!
-Jason :D
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kimmyt
Aug 31, 2005, 1:52 PM
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:)
google purple + white + hair
tada.
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gunked
Aug 31, 2005, 4:16 PM
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DUH!!!
:roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
-Jason :D
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lockeyaaron
Sep 1, 2005, 5:53 PM
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Anyone else headed to moe.down this weekend. If no one has plans and is into listening to some good music, here's the lineup.
Keller Williams
Medeski, Martin and Wood
The Violent Femmes
North Mississippi Allstars
Matisyahu
The Redwalls
Hackensaw Boys
Before Cowboys
Theresa Andersson Group
Tea Leaf Green
RAQ
Addison Groove Project
The Breakfast
Big Frog
Dread Clampitt
Jomama and the Funkdaddy's
For more info go to www.moe.org
Doobs
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jackflash
Sep 5, 2005, 9:01 PM
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I spent Saturday and Sunday at Poke-O Moonshine. I've lived in New York for a little over a year now and this was only my second time to the Dacks and the first time I've climbed there.
We left the campground before anyone else and started up Gamesmanship, a nice mixture of handcracks, a blocky sill, and beautiful, easy slab. We were glad to get an early start, as the line formed behind us as soon as I reached the first belay. We weren't sure if there was a rap route that could be done with a single 60, so we had a nice hike across the top and down a huge eroded dike.
Rain that night was a little disheartening, but everything was dry the next day. No other parties were stirring as we casually broke camp, so we easily got on another classic, FM, before anybody else. FM required delicate technique, both in its crux moves and in making sure the holds were solid, as there was loose rock on every pitch. The incredible fourth pitch climbed a huge hollow flake in a dihedral, then traversed the top of the flake out towards an arete and up across a grass slope to the belay.
We did a handful of single pitch routes as well on both days. My partner doesn't lead, so I got to be on the sharp end for everything.
I had hope to do Fastest Gun, which is supposed to be a phenomenal route, but I took one look at the crux moves from high on Gamesmanship and decided to put it off for another time. It was wet...that's my excuse, right?
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 6, 2005, 2:19 AM
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Well folks, my term of incarceration in northern NY is quickly coming to an end! after three months of hell, I will soon rejoin yall on the mountain bistro pourch, New Castle in hand. All of you who know me know where I can be found: sitting at the base of the Mac Wall chain smoking camal filters between wheezing my way up the wall. GOD I MISS FUCKING CLIMBING.
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gymnastc
Sep 6, 2005, 2:52 AM
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Hey guys! I’m Chris from Boston, and I met Happiegrrrl down at the Gunks this weekend. We decided that starting on Three Pines would be a nice easy warm up and “get to know you” climb. She told me that she had never led any multipitch routes before, so this was her time! I gave her P1 so that she could be the one to start off her first multipitch lead. She made it to the first belay ledge without incident, we swapped gear, and I headed out on P2. I brought her up and off she went on P3 to top out! When I got to the top, all I could do was congratulate her! She had just led her way up her first multipitch route!
As for our next route, she said that I could choose something harder that I could lead. I told her that we could do something harder, but not too hard, so that we could still swing leads, so the next climb we did was Bitchy Virgin. I took P1 and she took P2. As I was climbing up the corner, I was thinking that this was a bit stiff for a 5.5, and I think Terrie did too! After building an anchor and bringing Terrie up, we both had a laugh because we felt good about ourselves for not using the tree on the way up! P2 looked a bit more runout than Terrie would have liked. I told her that if she didn’t feel comfortable leading it, then I would. After a while of thinking, she decided that she would lead it herself. I was glad to see that she was going to take charge. She began climbing up, over the anchor, and by the time she placed her first piece, it was probably the highest she had ever climbed above any pro! She got up to the crux area, and was a little hesitant to move ahead. All she needed to do was to stay clam and remember that she has climbed this grade and harder before. She committed to the moves, and before you knew it, she was up at the top! I came up, and again, all I could do was congratulate her! I was so happy to watch her work through her fears and succeed! It definitely shows character when someone is scared, but goes ahead and tries anyways, and comes out triumphant!
Terrie is a great partner, and such a pleasant person to be around! She is very gracious and willing to learn, just a great person in general! I’m glad I was able to meet her this weekend!
Chris
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happiegrrrl
Sep 6, 2005, 2:07 PM
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Well....Chris - you didn't tell about the rest of your trip to the Gunks!
I DID have a good day climbing, and am in the process of doing a little essay on that climb. It was an.....interesting.....experience. One I am still processing, but has given me pause to reflect. I mentioned it on a "gratitude list" I share with a group of women, and have the feeling that they just wouldn't quite understand what the hell I was thinking when I committed to casting off on that one. Hell, I have the feeling some climbers will have a few things to say, if I ever put the last period on the text and post it up.....
Chris is an excellent partner, and climbs harder that 5.5, by the way. If he ever posts looking for someone to climb with - you'd be doing yourself solid to take him up. He's easy-going, fun, safe and all of the things that, in my book, make for a good climbing partner. I hope to see him round the cliffs again.
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happiegrrrl
Sep 9, 2005, 5:52 PM
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Boy.....poor NY Climbers Thread.......
"WHERE IS EV'RYBODY?" Off on some Virgin Atlantic flight to squeeze in their last summer holidays?
Anyway, I am getting ready to head upstate in an hour or so. Will be camping at the MUA, hopefully I will get ther in time to score a site next to the parking area, so I can set up a little cooking. If anyone is up there, look for Junior( he's a van, not a man - silver-grey Toyota).
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jakedatc
Sep 9, 2005, 6:03 PM
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aww i'll post up in your little thread since i'm headed to NY today.. Dak's though and not Gunks
anyone know about how far Mckensie pond is from the tall stuff around keene? might do some bouldering monday after a couple days of trad
Jake
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shakylegs
Sep 9, 2005, 7:46 PM
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Isn't Mckenzie Pond out by Lake Placid/Saranac Lake?
If so, I'm thinking a 30-minute drive to Keene Valley to hit Washbowl and other such cliffs.
You can drop in to the Mountaineer (Keene Valley) or EMS (Lake Placid) for more info. However, they're not big on the climbing stuff at EMS.
FYI, there's also free camping next to Chapel Pond, if you're so inclined.
Enjoy the Dacks.
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gymnastc
Sep 14, 2005, 11:58 PM
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I posted this in the partner section, and thought I'd post it here too.
I'm looking for a partner for the Gunks on Sunday the 18th. I'm getting there on Thursday night, and already have plans for Friday and Saturday.
I can lead up to around .9 and can follow .10 comfortably. I've got a full rack. I'm looking for someone to swing leads with and I've got no problems getting on routes below my limit. If anyone is interested, e-mail me or send a PM before tommorow night. Thanks!
Chris
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happiegrrrl
Sep 17, 2005, 3:21 AM
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I cannot believe....finally, at 10:45pm on Friday, my d^#ned assistant agrees to handle the weekend work I emailed her about this morning. Sheesh! Don't these people know I have priorities!!
Anyway, now at least I can head to the Gunks tomorrow. I'll probably get there late afternoon, and I think I'll take Teddy on a walk along the Trapps overcliff trail and probably do a little bouldering. I am going to camp the van in the Trapps parking lot I guess, if anyone wants to stop by in the evening. And Sunday I am finally(unless it rains) helping with trail work. Hope I can find someone to climb with after we finish up. I may stay up and camp Sunday night and avoid the slow moving vehicles crawling back to Manhattan.....
Not much climbing for me, but it just feels so good to get away from the city, and my dog is just so happy up there.
FYI - next Saturday, the 24th is Adopt-a-Crag day at Peterskill. It was fun last year; we met up about 9 and got to meet each other, then did some clean up of chalk off rock and laying down wood chips on the trail, and then we did climbing afterward.
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 18, 2005, 1:44 AM
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Nice work. A friend and I got rained off on the second pitch. clowds came in, rain started, we rapped and drank vodka. as soon as I had a few shots in me clowds cleared. well... I will go back.
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 18, 2005, 1:45 AM
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Nice work. A friend and I got rained off on the second pitch. clowds came in, rain started, we rapped and drank vodka. as soon as I had a few shots in me clowds cleared. well... I will go back.
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happiegrrrl
Sep 22, 2005, 3:05 PM
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Last weekend I took a walk along the overcliff trail at the Trapps, and of course, spied the crag off to the west. Lost City, I gather. I think it is due time I amble over there, and am wondering about the trail to take. I am In the guidebooks it looks like you head out from the Coxing Kill lot. Could anyone who knows give me a little bit of info? I ran into an old-timer hiker a few weeks ago who had said you sort of need to know your way, so I'd appreciate any assistance.
And what's everyone doing this wekend? I am hoping to head up Friday afternoon(and take that look as mentioned above) and then do the clean-up at peterskill on Saturday. Then, the slideshow at R&S and back home later Saturday night. If....I can get my weekend work covered.
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climbingbetty22
Sep 24, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 1538
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I finally got a ride!!!
Last weekend I became the proud owner of a 1992 Subaru Legacy. Yes, she's old, but she runs well for her age, insurance is way cheap, and really she's the perfect climbing bum car. I look forward to many climbing trips with her. Particularly right now, visions of brand new Vipers and Daks ice climbing are dancing in my head. Mmmmm....
I love the climbing life. :D
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 24, 2005, 11:35 PM
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Happiegirl, it is kinda hard to explain how to get there, and seeing that there isnt a guide book it would be best to go with someone who knows the area. most of the routes are in the 5.10-5.12 range with a few exeptions on both ends of the spectrum. I am sure Richie D would be happy to take you out there (and show off for you, then spray about it later). best of luck.....
climbingbetty22 wrote In reply to: she's the perfect climbing bum car. |
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happiegrrrl
Sep 25, 2005, 4:31 AM
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Thanks: I did find the trail info on Gunks.com, plus also a friend saw my request and PM'ed me with info.
I did already know the grades were high/no book, etc. But thanks for the answer anyway.
As for the slight to Richard..... perhaps you have some personal conflicts with him, but I think I will judge the man on the interations I have had with him on my own. He was extraordinarily kind and patient, and a very good teacher, when I climbed with him.
Perhaps I misundertsood your intent when you wrote "and spray about it later." It reads as if Richard would be the spraylord......doesn't make sense. Maybe you meant that I would spray about climbing with him? Since I did post about a day of climbing I had with the guy once, perhaps that is the case. If so, please take only a small offense when I say.... piss off. :angel:
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all_that_is_rock
Sep 25, 2005, 6:41 PM
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Happiegirl. my humar doesnt come across the internet very well. I know richard and like climbing with him very much. gunks humar does involve making fun of people for spraying, and richard will be the first to admit that he is guilty of a little afterclimb, delli spray himself.
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climbingbetty22
Sep 25, 2005, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: I know richard and like climbing with him very much.
He's not into hero worship, but...
LOL. Yes, It's only funny if you know him. And Charlie, about the climbing bum comment-- fuck you buddy. :twisted:
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happiegrrrl
Sep 25, 2005, 7:40 PM
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oh....hahahar.... Yeah, I didn't get the joke. Actually, I thought that perhaps you might be the person who.....well, I guess that is best left for a personal conversation. And, you see - I made my own attempt at humor, too, when I posted, with the angel-wings emoticon......
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