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blueeyedclimber
Sep 26, 2005, 1:25 AM
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I had a great weekend in the Gunks. Up until now, the hardest lead I have done there was Madame G's(5.6). I felt really strong and my friend talked me into leading Inverted Layback (5.9). I flew through the beginning but knew where the crux was having watched a friend struggle with it on our previouse trip. For those who know the climb, there are very few options to protect the crux. One of those is a blue Alien. It took me a few pieces to figure it out. After placing it, I tried to summon my courage and proceeded to commit. I was very sketched and was getting pumped. I tried to move my hands and somehow ended up with my knee against the rock. I tried to struggle through it but was in a very awkward postion. A few "Oh, Shit!"'s later and I was airborne. Nothing but air. I went back up, checked the piece and proceeded to fire the crux on my second try.
The good thing is, I am no longer intimidated by the Gunks.
Josh
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fear
Sep 26, 2005, 2:10 AM
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Sure... Get on Erect Direction and tell me you're not initimidated....
FWIW don't make a habit of falling on black or blue aliens as your primary piece. If you've got to trust 'em at least toss a screamer on them.
-Fear
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vegastradguy
Sep 26, 2005, 2:25 AM
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In reply to: FWIW don't make a habit of falling on black or blue aliens as your primary piece. If you've got to trust 'em at least toss a screamer on them.
this is good advice- the margin of error on those pieces is too small to feel good about climbing above them, especially on difficult terrain. they are, in fact, the reason i purchased my screamers!
edit: proud send, btw!
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climbingnurse
Sep 26, 2005, 2:36 AM
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Ok, let me get this right, you jumped on a climb 3 grades harder than anything you had ever lead. You did this knowing the crux was hard to protect. And then you took a big whipper onto a blue alien.
And then you decided that you are no longer intimidated by the Gunks. Huh.
A little bit of confidence can be a very dangerous thing... But on the other hand, it's also grants me job security as an ER nurse. So, hey, go for it. Next weekend you should do "Welcome to the Gunks."
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areuinclimber
Sep 26, 2005, 2:53 AM
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In reply to: Ok, let me get this right, you jumped on a climb 3 grades harder than anything you had ever lead. You did this knowing the crux was hard to protect. And then you took a big whipper onto a blue alien. And then you decided that you are no longer intimidated by the Gunks. Huh. A little bit of confidence can be a very dangerous thing... But on the other hand, it's also grants me job security as an ER nurse. So, hey, go for it. Next weekend you should do "Welcome to the Gunks."
oh please,
sounds like a proud send, keep pushing the grades and dont fear falling. but as has already been said, watch those small cams. throw down some duckets for a few o' the cheap screamers and use them.
a good attitude to have is to have respect for every climb you do and accept the fact that you can be shut down by a 5.6 even if you climb 5.13.
being confident is good, but dont get cocky.
anyways, your doin it proud, good job.
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gunksgoer
Sep 26, 2005, 2:58 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: FWIW don't make a habit of falling on black or blue aliens as your primary piece. If you've got to trust 'em at least toss a screamer on them. this is good advice- the margin of error on those pieces is too small to feel good about climbing above them, especially on difficult terrain. they are, in fact, the reason i purchased my screamers! edit: proud send, btw!
I definatly agree, but on the other hand, a blue alien is relatively bomber compared to the manky gunks pins i purchased my screamers for. :shock:
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 26, 2005, 1:34 PM
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In reply to: Ok, let me get this right, you jumped on a climb 3 grades harder than anything you had ever lead. You did this knowing the crux was hard to protect. And then you took a big whipper onto a blue alien. And then you decided that you are no longer intimidated by the Gunks. Huh. A little bit of confidence can be a very dangerous thing... But on the other hand, it's also grants me job security as an ER nurse. So, hey, go for it. Next weekend you should do "Welcome to the Gunks."
No, what I said was that at THE GUNKS, I haven't led above a 5.6. I have led up to 5.10a elsewhere. I am no longer intimidated by the Gunks as a whole, but certain climbs would probably have me screaming for momma.
If the blue Alien pulled, not too far underneath, was a piton backed up by an Orange TCU.
Thanks for the words of encouragement, nursey!
Josh
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joeforte
Sep 26, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Nursey.... Haha!
Hey man, nice send... I am also working out my nerves at the gunks!
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caughtinside
Sep 26, 2005, 3:38 PM
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Now you have to go back and redpoint that sucker. 8^)
But, I seem to recall a post about you falling on gear before, with a less happy ending. :?
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skateman
Sep 26, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Nice job Josh! Sounds like you're ready for Modern Times! I just got spit off of a gunks 5.8 . Luckily I was able to retrieve the cam that I fell on twice......which went to the scrap heap because I bent the axle slightly.
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slcliffdiver
Sep 26, 2005, 8:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Ok, let me get this right, you jumped on a climb 3 grades harder than anything you had ever lead. You did this knowing the crux was hard to protect. And then you took a big whipper onto a blue alien. And then you decided that you are no longer intimidated by the Gunks. Huh. A little bit of confidence can be a very dangerous thing... But on the other hand, it's also grants me job security as an ER nurse. So, hey, go for it. Next weekend you should do "Welcome to the Gunks." No, what I said was that at THE GUNKS, I haven't led above a 5.6. I have led up to 5.10a elsewhere. I am no longer intimidated by the Gunks as a whole, but certain climbs would probably have me screaming for momma. If the blue Alien pulled, not too far underneath, was a piton backed up by an Orange TCU. Thanks for the words of encouragement, nursey! Josh
Do you blame climbing nurse for infering that the only piece between you and an injury was a blue alien? Read what you wrote in your original post again. I'm more concered with people who encourage you to go for it from "the way you described" your experience and pro in the original post.
I'm not against pushing the grades on trad once you know what your doing and how and when you can go about it realatively safely. But how anyone that doesn't know you can tell that over the internet is beyond me especially given the way your opening post was written. Giving high fives, way to go, keep on doing it or you're ready to push a little more on trad to your buddies who you know there abilities can be well and good. Doing the same thing over the net really doesn't seem like the best thing to do when it involves falling on trad.
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fear
Sep 26, 2005, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: Nice job Josh! Sounds like you're ready for Modern Times! I just got spit off of a gunks 5.8 . Luckily I was able to retrieve the cam that I fell on twice......which went to the scrap heap because I bent the axle slightly.
Modern Times is not an 8 anywhere else on earth. It's a solid pumpy 9. But it remains the classic guidebook "5.8" for historical sandbag purposes.
-Fear
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 26, 2005, 9:12 PM
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In reply to: Do you blame climbing nurse for infering that the only piece between you and an injury was a blue alien? Read what you wrote in your original post again. I'm more concered with people who encourage you to go for it from "the way you described" your experience and pro in the original post. I'm not against pushing the grades on trad once you know what your doing and how and when you can go about it realatively safely. But how anyone that doesn't know you can tell that over the internet is beyond me especially given the way your opening post was written. Giving high fives, way to go, keep on doing it or you're ready to push a little more on trad to your buddies who you know there abilities can be well and good. Doing the same thing over the net really doesn't seem like the best thing to do when it involves falling on trad.
No, you're right. I guess the way I wrote it, I inferred that blue alien was keeping me off the ground. I was still all right if it pulled, I am just glad it didn't because the fall would have been a lot longer.
Nursey, if your watching...didn't mean nothin' by it.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 26, 2005, 9:17 PM
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In reply to: Now you have to go back and redpoint that sucker. 8^) But, I seem to recall a post about you falling on gear before, with a less happy ending. :?
I was hoping no one would bring that up. Damn you and your good memory! That first time taught me more than any other expereience. I am just now feeling like I am a competent leader. Back then I was cocky and had no clue what I was doing. I had no business being on anything that i might have fallen on. But, that was then, this is now. I don't count that as my first leader fall, because I was pretty much soloing. I just didnt' realize it.
Josh
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david.yount
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Sep 26, 2005, 9:39 PM
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1)
A Trango Big Bro #4 Blue protects Inverted Layback quite nicely. Or if you haul a Valley Giant cam from the west coast.
2)
Yates Zippers suck up 6kN-7kN, which makes most marginal pro almost reasonable. Shorties sure are conveniently small and weigh less, but they only suck up 3kN-4kN.
3)
Wicks Banana 5.9 and Airy Aria 5.8 and Day Tripper Direct 5.10B are three lesser routes that get me in the mood for Erect Direction 5.10C
4)
Modern Times has incredible pro at the crux, unlimited BD cams #0.5 ~ #1 and nothing but air beneath; I consider it a fine fine route to work the crux. Just maybe bring a tibloc or prussik loop in case you end up out of reach of rock!
david yount.
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dudemanbu
Sep 27, 2005, 1:37 AM
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Congratulations on your first lead fall. I just had mine the other day, a 10 footer onto a blue WC zero on the M face corner at Qunicy Quarries. it was backed up by a bomber nut about 4 feet down, but still scared the bejeezus out of me. held like a champ.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 27, 2005, 2:20 AM
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In reply to: Congratulations on your first lead fall. I just had mine the other day, a 10 footer onto a blue WC zero on the M face corner at Qunicy Quarries. it was backed up by a bomber nut about 4 feet down, but still scared the bejeezus out of me. held like a champ.
Did you drive to CT just to climb at the Quarries? There is better stuff back home. Glad to hear you're all right. How small is that WC zero, anyways? I've never climbed on them.
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dudemanbu
Sep 27, 2005, 2:27 AM
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no, i was up in boston for the weekend visiitng my girlfriend. I like QQ though, climbed there all through college. the blue zero is same size as a 0 tech friend. 13-19 mm expansion. Speaking of home, hoping to get out in and do some new leads this week before heading to the gunks for the weekend. :D
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