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raymondjeffrey
Sep 15, 2005, 11:31 PM
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I really want to get up to St. George this October. Which spot has the best collection of moderate routes? I'm looking for the 5.9 - 5.11 range. Thanks for the intel and hopefully I'll see some of you folks up there.
Remember: Be nice
Jeff Raymond
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karate_pete
Sep 15, 2005, 11:46 PM
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one of the best areas and super easy places to climb is the chuckawalla wall and turtle wall. the 11s are good and solid. about a 15 minute hike down the trail will lead you to the Turtle wall.
Then there's the Veyo Pool/Crawdad Canyon Climbing Park, but I blieve there closed in the winter, check the Outdoor Outlet for more details (the local outdoor/climbing store, closed on Sundays).
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infiniteexposure
Sep 16, 2005, 12:01 AM
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Try Snow Canyon State Park. It's only about 15 mins from St. George. The routes are bolted and there are a variety of ratings. You can camp there too (for a small fee).
Veyo Pool or "Crawdad Canyon" is another 10 mins further but is closed after Labor Day.
I wish I could consider 5.11's "moderate"....
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alpinerock
Sep 16, 2005, 4:20 PM
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Green valley gap is good, it has quite a few easier climbs and even the 12's and 13's are fairly soft
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 16, 2005, 4:50 PM
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prophesy wall was awsome. two pitch climbs ther is one 5.9 and a bunch of 10s watch out for the Mojave Green :shock: biggest meanest looking MFn snake I ever encountered :shock:
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rockprodigy
Sep 27, 2005, 3:04 AM
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This has been tossed around before, so you may get more info by doing a search. My favorite place for moderates is Kelly's Rock, and the VRG has one of the best 5.ll's I've ever done...it's called Bloody Mary.
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airborne_r6
Sep 27, 2005, 3:24 AM
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In reply to: prophesy wall was awsome. two pitch climbs ther is one 5.9 and a bunch of 10s watch out for the Mojave Green :shock: biggest meanest looking MFn snake I ever encountered :shock:
I love prophecy wall. All 2-3 pitch climbs in the 5.9 to 510+ range. Fun wall. Let me know when you are planning to go. My brother-in-law lives there and I will try to drive down. We both climb 5.9 to easy 5.10.
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nieder
Sep 27, 2005, 4:07 AM
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I would also highly recommend Prophesy Wall-never seen any snakes there, but there are some killer pigeons- watch out...Classic routes are Sticky Revelations and Roofs of Jeracho.
Crawdad Canyon is closed, but if you join the climber's coalition http://www.succ.org you can climb there for a small fee---the highest concentration of sport routes in the area.
The gorge isnt the best for the 5.9-5.11 range- you can find some rad limestone in the Utah hills- You should check out Soul Asylum and Welcome Springs for some cool 10s & 11s. Well worth the 30 min drive from St. George.
Oh ya, and I hate Chuckwalla Wall- Turtle wall is good. Some of the most unique 11s around.
email me if you want any more beta or need a partner while you are here: nieder AT infowest DOT com
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gswan
Sep 27, 2005, 4:16 AM
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i'm suprised no one said black rocks... its great, all single pitch stuff but all great climbs. and your climbing basalt instead of the softer rocks around the area. its also free unlike snow canyon and very accessible. The other places are all great too, climb them all if you get the chance!
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 27, 2005, 4:43 AM
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we walked through crawdad caynon but decided not to pony up the 6 bucks to climb. too much like an outdoor gym. prophesy wall was as good as it gets for moderate sport climbing. we got showers in town at the gym and great mex food. free camping at the parking area at prophesy? that was last year? so not current beta on the camping.
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petsfed
Sep 27, 2005, 5:14 AM
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In reply to: I wish I could consider 5.11's "moderate"....
I dunno, overhung 5.11 on sandstone isn't very techy, just juggy and fun.
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airborne_r6
Sep 27, 2005, 4:41 PM
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In reply to: free camping at the parking area at prophesy? that was last year? so not current beta on the camping.
Still the same.
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airborne_r6
Sep 29, 2005, 1:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I wish I could consider 5.11's "moderate".... Not to start a pissing match here but...6 years ago as a 5.8 leader I onsighted nearly 5.11 sport route I tried in the St. George area. Based on that, I'd say 5.11 is moderate (though not really 5.11) there.
I tend to agree, I am a beginner and have done 5.10c near St. George. Still great climbing though.
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rockprodigy
Sep 29, 2005, 4:03 AM
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[quote="fshizzle"]In reply to: Based on that, I'd say 5.11 is moderate (though not really 5.11) there.
You guys are going to the wrong crags.
Try "This Side of Paradise" (11d) and "Just Left of Paradise" (11b) at Gorilla Cliffs, "Natural Selection" (11a/b) at the Simian Complex, "Casting Aspersions" (11b) at the Wailing Wall, "Bed Head" (11c), "Dull Boy" (11d), and "Pangs of Ignorence" (11a) at Black and Tan, "K6" and "K8" (both 11b) at Kelly's Rock, and "Call me Mike" (11a), "Quick Fixe" (11d) and "Brutus" (11b) at the VRG.
BTW, 5.11 is considered "moderate" in sport climbing. Many crags' easiest routes are 5.11s. If you can get to the gym 2-3 times per week, you'll be cranking out 5.11 pretty soon.
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eljefe
Oct 21, 2005, 11:23 PM
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I fully agree. To bluntly state "5.11 is soft in the St George area" is a bold statement. Go to some of the limestone crags and test that theory, start with the Gorilla Cliff and Lucky #13 ---hey its only 11a.
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