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boltdude
Sep 10, 2005, 4:07 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Stopping by Zion for one day in late Sept., looking for a quality shorter route (10 pitches max) in the 5.10 range. Have/can borrow a couple guidebooks but quality ratings seemed to be limited. Thanks!
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rockprodigy
Sep 10, 2005, 4:43 AM
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Greg, you should try "The Headache" It's 3 pitches of mostly splitter hand cracks. It's in Pine Creek Canyon, which is the branch of the road that goes up to and through the Carmel Tunnel. The climb is on the SW side of the road (on the right as you're leaving Zion through the tunnel). It's in all the guidebooks, it's somewhat obvious from the road (look for the 5.10-ish looking hand crack about 3 pitches up). The start is a splitter #2 camalot crack. It's shady in the afternoon which will be good @ the end of Sep. Enjoy!
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rockprodigy
Sep 10, 2005, 4:45 AM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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Greg, you should try "The Headache" It's 3 pitches of mostly splitter hand cracks. It's in Pine Creek Canyon, which is the branch of the road that goes up to and through the Carmel Tunnel. The climb is on the SW side of the road (on the right as you're leaving Zion through the tunnel). It's in all the guidebooks, it's somewhat obvious from the road (look for the 5.10-ish looking hand crack about 3 pitches up). The start is a splitter #2 camalot crack. It's shady in the afternoon which will be good @ the end of Sep. Enjoy!
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boltdude
Sep 10, 2005, 5:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Cool, Headache was tops on the list based on your recommendation from one of the old Zion threads. Any good routes for the morning if we do that in the afternoon?
Also, what gear would you recommend for Nervous Tension? Different areas have different ideas of "small", is that 00 TCUs and thin stoppers or a pile of green and yellow aliens?
Lastly - can you do the raps with a single 70 for Headache and Nervous Tension? We're planning on bringing double 60s but there's very little space in the car for climbing gear (on the way back from a wedding).
Thanks! Greg
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esallen
Sep 27, 2005, 4:32 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
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I've done several shorter single pitch routes at Cerebrus Gendarme near the Big Bend; Touchtone Wall (8 pitches 5.9 C2) can be done with only a few pitches of aid.
Eric
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atg200
Sep 27, 2005, 12:59 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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ashtar command tower is pretty much right where you park for the headache, and it is fun. the cattle route on it is a nice 2 pitch 9, and there are some other spicier things as well.
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