Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Utah
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


alliwanttodoisclimb


Sep 22, 2005, 1:12 PM
Post #1 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 32

Utah
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So wheres the best place to climb in Utah?
I'm going on a skydiving holiday soon and have the option of staying near Moab, Zion or SLC


atg200


Sep 22, 2005, 1:24 PM
Post #2 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

what kind of climbing do you want to do, and what time of year? all three are excellent, but for different reasons.

moab - towers and splitter 5.10 and up cracks. my favorite of the three.
zion - big walls, long free routes in the 5.10 and up range.
salt lake - really good trad, sport, and bouldering. great skiing in the winter.


ddriver


Sep 22, 2005, 6:26 PM
Post #3 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 264

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's also a ton of sport climbing near Zion/St George as well as a variety of stuff in Snow Cyn, including multipitch moderate face climbing.


atrocket


Sep 22, 2005, 9:23 PM
Post #4 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 22, 2005
Posts: 37

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You can find great climbs in snow canyon and the Black Rocks (not far from snow canyon). If you want to climb some really cool stuff, go climb the cobblestones at Maple Canyon (about 2hrs south of SLC)- you won't find anything like it anywhere else.


sarcat


Sep 22, 2005, 10:13 PM
Post #5 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ditto the Maple Canyon idea. Or you could visit the infamous choss pile Amirican Fork Canyon.


mistymountainhop


Sep 22, 2005, 10:57 PM
Post #6 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 410

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Although Utah has alot of good climbing areas, it's unique factor lies in Maple Canyon or Indian Creek. If you are looking for splitters, youll find the best in the world at IC.


reprieve


Sep 27, 2005, 3:24 AM
Post #7 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 24, 2004
Posts: 604

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

what about the towers? those are pretty unique, huh? HUH?


lenexa


Sep 27, 2005, 3:46 AM
Post #8 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 95

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Moab Zion or salt lake. All three would be huge destinations if they were in separate states. What a tough choice.
But I agree. Towers are very unique. You can find granite else where (SLC) and big walls as well (zion) but towers are only in the sw.
In fact Utah has 4 towers that are on the North American classic climbs list, which is kind of cool I suppose. Two aid climbs in Zion are classics too.
Maple is very unique and one-of-a-kind, but if you've never climbed a tower, I would go to Moab and do one of the four, or other less known towers. You won't be disappointed, there is so much rock in Moab, after you do a tower you could also climb cracks in IC (same place) in the same trip.


reprieve


Sep 27, 2005, 4:38 AM
Post #9 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 24, 2004
Posts: 604

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

which four are on the classic climbs list?


ecjohnson


Sep 27, 2005, 5:08 AM
Post #10 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 19, 2005
Posts: 176

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I know that the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton is a 50 crowded.
The Finger of Fate on the Titan is one also. I wouldn't suggest that for your first climbing trip to the desert, or second. I don't know the other 2 though. is Ancient Art?

Here are my suggestions. Moab has a bunch of great 1-2 pitch climbs. Then there are the desert towers. do the North Chimney of Castleton Tower and Ancient Art with the corkscrew finish. While in the area, head down to Indian Creek for the most amazing splitters of your life. mostly one pitch there are too many to count. While at the creek, you can get a tower in by climbing North Six Shooter via the Lightning Bolt Cracks.

I agree that climbing in the Moab area and on desert towers is one of the most unique climbing experiences in Utah.


lenexa


Sep 28, 2005, 11:39 PM
Post #11 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 95

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Castleton, Fisher (anchient art), Titan as you mentioned. The forth is Moses Tower in Canyonlands, its more difficult though.
naclassics.com I think is the list

Oh, and if you are going this late, they really are Top 50 Classics not Top 50 Crowded. Depending on the day, you could get them to yourself in Oct


lenexa


Sep 28, 2005, 11:41 PM
Post #12 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 95

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Castleton, Fisher (anchient art), Titan as you mentioned. The forth is Moses Tower in Canyonlands, its more difficult though.
naclassics.com I think is the list

Oh, and if you are going this late, they really are Top 50 Classics not Top 50 Crowded. Depending on the day, you could get them to yourself in Oct


alliwanttodoisclimb


Sep 30, 2005, 12:56 PM
Post #13 of 13 (2010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 32

Re: Utah [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Guys for all the suggestions.
Maybe its a coincidence becsuae of the merger with dropzone, but I'm going to Utah to get my A licence in Skydiving and want to get some climbing done aswell!!!!!

What about some of those amazing towers? Anybody climbed any of these?

I've been climbing for 5 years now and my grades are:
Trad: E3
Sport: 6c
Alpine: TD

I've climbed the North Face of Mt Blanc d Tacul in France, so I have 'big route' experience...

Any of you guys free to climb with me in April???


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook