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p0bray01
Oct 2, 2005, 2:30 AM
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I was wondering, I just started leading and have had the same BD momentum AL since I began climbing like...hmm....for about 10 months 'ish I took my first whipper yesterday....scary as shit and upon inspection of the harness there were small signs of wear at the tie in points. I am thinking of retiring it due to the abuse I have put on it learning etc as well as being rained on, muddied and bloodied. Its been through a lot... however, should I keep it as a back up for TR use only? I mean I am 100% sure it will hold body weight and little TR slip ups. What would you guys do? :roll: :)
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ceramiclover
Oct 2, 2005, 2:34 AM
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it is hard to believe that one whipper would screw your harness. also, in the event that the damage to your tie in points would actually be an issue (tear through one), you would still be tied into the other. you also said that it only showed slight signs of wear.
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insanefox
Oct 2, 2005, 2:36 AM
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Keep it man, you never know when you may need it again, i actually keep all my old harnesses just in case...
A good advice, if you are going to buy a new one, try to get the Calidris, is the best damn harness ever made.
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thegreytradster
Oct 2, 2005, 2:56 AM
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Two issues here:
If it plays with your head, get a new one.
Harnesses in general are good for two to five years and your fears are probably unreasonable. Have someone experienced check it out for you. There is always the possibility that something unusual has happened, but not likely.
Usually the first thing to go is the elastic an the leg loop rear straps.
I think every retired harness I have has been due to the "droopy drawers" syndrome, nothing structural.
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p0bray01
Oct 2, 2005, 5:27 PM
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Thanks for the advice....yeah I had a guide at my gym check it...he said like you guys...biggest thing if it fucks with your head get a new one. He said he saw some of the webbing on the sides and the elastic strap that connects the two sides (which I missed) were fraying but he thought I had " a few more whippers to go" before it should be buried. He thought if I retired it now for TR use only, it would be fine.
Thanks! 8^)
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asandh
Oct 2, 2005, 6:17 PM
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:)
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lidosis
Oct 2, 2005, 8:11 PM
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Yeah I can chime in with everyone else sounds like its fine, I got a whole collection of worn harnesses small frayign even had a harness that I blew a few bartacks out of the belay loop cut it off and tied on some threaded webbing to replace it. I've snapped webbing slacklining and have found the stuff to be really beefy its got to be in bad shape and have a lot of stress put on it. I know webbing is not the same as a harness but the stuff is strong. So I say if you don't feel safe using it send it to me.
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metoliusdmm
Oct 2, 2005, 10:15 PM
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Climb on it until you don't feel absolutly safe in it, that's alot of money to be wasting if you just are now seeing wear and you think it needs to be retired, keep climbing in it man your just fine.
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billcoe_
Oct 3, 2005, 3:19 PM
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In reply to: Climb on it until you don't feel absolutly safe in it, that's alot of money to be wasting if you just are now seeing wear and you think it needs to be retired, keep climbing in it man your just fine.
I'm a strong avocate of retiring gear earlier rather than later.
I have never heard of a harness failing....ever. Some of these old dawgs wear a harness for 10-15 years too. They'll replace a rope every 2-3 years and keep that old harness through many cycles of retired ropes.
If you really want a new one, and you have to be the person to make that call, because you're looking at the gear: not us, then go ahead and buy that new one, but use this 10 mo old harness for topropeing and the other for leading.
Hows that?
Has anyone here ever hear of a harness failure? I personally saw a rope failure which cause some poor bastard a bloody compound fracture in his leg (lucky kid lived), and biners and gear failure stories as well, but have never ever heard of a harness failing, even a 20 year old one.
Your call: good luck:
Bill
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antiqued
Oct 4, 2005, 1:35 PM
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[quote="billcoe
I have never heard of a harness failing....ever. Some of these old dawgs wear a harness for 10-15 years too. They'll replace a rope every 2-3 years and keep that old harness through many cycles of retired ropes.
Has anyone here ever hear of a harness failure? I
Bill
Ok - It's not first hand, but, back in the late 80's on a trip to NRG, I heard that a harness had broken the week before. Many people would do the giant swing from the old bridge, and 'rumour' was that a guy had just ripped his harness apart and taken the big plunge.
Ring any bells?
I lead on a harness for 5+yrs, depending on wear, then use it for top roping till I outgrow it.
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wjca
Oct 4, 2005, 2:30 PM
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In reply to: I was wondering, I just started leading and have had the same BD momentum AL since I began climbing like...hmm....for about 10 months 'ish I took my first whipper yesterday....scary as s--- and upon inspection of the harness there were small signs of wear at the tie in points. I am thinking of retiring it due to the abuse I have put on it learning etc as well as being rained on, muddied and bloodied. Its been through a lot... however, should I keep it as a back up for TR use only? I mean I am 100% sure it will hold body weight and little TR slip ups. What would you guys do? :roll: :)
The nylon at the tie-in points is naturally going to get a little fuzzy with use, but is not a bad thing. If the small signs of wear is more than just fuzzy nylon, you may have more serious issues.
What concerned me was that you referred to the as getting muddied. How muddy are we talking about? Do you thoroughly wash the mud off, or let is sit and dry? Dirt getting into the nylon of your harness I would imagine does the same thing as it does if it gets into your rope. It is abbrasive and as the nylon is stretched and pulled, the dirt does bad things. If that's the case, get a new harness and learn to take better care of it and the rest of your gear.
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