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Aid Traverse
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climbingcowboy


Aug 1, 2002, 1:06 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Aid Traverse
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 Seeings how there are so many here doing things the "Better Way" I want to ask a question of you guys/gals.
I did my first big aid traverse and didnt have really any problems but when I was cleaning a pitch later on my partner had down aided while traversing basically he pacled a stopper then the next placment was 3-4 feet lower and 3-4 feet over. I had a heelva time cleanig the stopper I could barely reach back up and over to get it. I connected my to aiders into the low piece so I could high step and reach back but it was a PAIN in the ARSS is there a "Better Way" or do I just not have enough experiance? Thanks Geoff


smithclimber


Aug 1, 2002, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
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Aid Traverse [In reply to]
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Were you trying to clean while jumaring, the way you normally would? If so, consider this. Sometimes it is best to re-aid from piece to piece (exactly as the leader did) when you are cleaning very steep or very traversing sections. While you are moving piece to piece, you merely slide the ascenders along the rope (or use a Grigri) as you move.


apollodorus


Aug 1, 2002, 1:32 AM
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The leader needs to make sure that the traverse is easy to clean. If he back-cleans his own stuff, or uses a hook, it can leave a large gap that requires lowering off a piece and leaving it there. He has to lead the pitch with the idea that it has to be cleaned later, and not just get to the belay.

And speaking of hooks, having one on a daisy is not a bad idea. It can hold you sideways near a piece so you can clean it, then swing away by popping the hook. This saves you from hanging by a fingerlock with one hand while fighting the piece out with the other.

A downward sloping traverse is probably the worst thing to clean. People have died cleaning P4 of the Tangerine Trip. On something like this, you probably have to clip clean it, so the leader MUST make sure there are enough pieces, close enough together.

Finally, if the pitch is A4 and you enjoy a thrill, you can factor 2 the first piece, and then zip all the rest.


climbingcowboy


Aug 1, 2002, 3:02 AM
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Aid Traverse [In reply to]
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 Thnks for the info. I was basically re aiding the pitch but that idea of useing one of the hooks to hold me over while I cursed out the stopper and the way he led it sure would have been nice and saved the painful finger lock, does down aiding happen very often while traverseing? any other tips tricks anyone? I alredy use three aiders, when traversing and just slide my jugs along for safty. I just have never had to clean like that trying to reach back but also UP.
I always thought just zippering a pitch while cleaning would be lots of fun , OH YEAH WHAT A RUSH!!! WEEEEEE!! AHHHH


passthepitonspete


Aug 1, 2002, 4:17 AM
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When leading traverses, the leader should have a heart for his second.

THINK about how the second is going to get across. If you backclean that piece, what will your second do?

When it comes to traverses, the best advice I can offer is DON'T BACKCLEAN! Sometimes this rule can be broken with fixed lower-out points.

If you want to know where you zip clean a few hard aid pitches, I have a couple suggestions....


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