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ben87
Oct 4, 2005, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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I'm in the market for a new lead rope.
I climb primarily trad, primarily at the gunks, occasionally elsewhere in the NE or the mid-atlantic (not that I'd want to rule out the possibility of more exotic locales!). I'm not pushing the grades, I'm pretty happy if I make it outside 10 times a year, and I don't make a practice of falling lots on lead.
I'd like something light, thinnish (under 10mm?), supple, but most importantly, strong and durable (and certainly a dry rope).
Also, I don't *really* know about ropes, so feel free to correct my misconceptions. And I'm assuming I'm going to mail-order.
-Ben
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ben87
Oct 5, 2005, 8:38 PM
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come on, I there must be opinionated people out there?
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chanceboarder
Oct 5, 2005, 8:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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there needs to be a quicklink button on this site for the phrase "do a search"
there are tons of opinions out there and they've already been posted tons of time.
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littlefingers
Oct 5, 2005, 9:11 PM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
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I *thought* a thinner rope wold be nice on lead, so used a 9.4 mm rope last summer. It was definitely light weight and nice when new, but then it stretched A LOT. In two months it appeared pretty battered to the point that climbing partners looked at it skeptically. Also, they advise against using a thinner rope with a Grigri- which is a nuisance for your belayer if you want to work a route. You can use a Cinch, (but I don't prefer it), and most belayers aren't used to it, so used an ATC instead.
This year I bought the Eliminator Bluewater and love it. It's 10.2 mm and has been both durable and light, and can also be used with any belay device. This would be my recommendation.
BTW- I climb both trad and sport, so probably need a rope to take more falls than you do if you climb mostly trad. I'd like to get doubles, but have no experience with them as of yet-
good luck!
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z_rock90
Oct 5, 2005, 9:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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a sterling, 10.3 or 10.5 60m "can't go wrong with sterling"
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areuinclimber
Oct 5, 2005, 10:13 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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my next rope WILL be the hot pink one from sterling for free climbing...... that rope is the most bitchin piece of thread i've seen. but the other option is any rope from new england/maxim that has the twill sheath. NE drastiaclly increases the thread count of the ropes sheath which creates a more durable sheath that feeds through devices easier. but i still fully endorse the hot pink option.
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glyrocks
Oct 5, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I use double Mammuts. They're wonderful, changed my life. Made me a better person really.
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thetroutscout
Oct 6, 2005, 8:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2004
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I'll second the Bluewater Eliminator. It's sweet. Light and durable and you can usually find one at a decent price.
^^ike
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beefy
Oct 6, 2005, 8:26 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2005
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10mm mammut galaxy awesome rope
or the
9.5 mammut infinity
60m duodess dry is the way to go.
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ping
Oct 6, 2005, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Mammut Eternity. 10mm, lightweight, nice and supple, can take 10 lead falls, has held up beautifully at the Gunks/Adirondacks. Great cord.
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moonshine505
Oct 6, 2005, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Mammut is spendy in the states, but in my experience, they last pretty darn well. Sterling definately has a good rep for durability as well. I picked up a Maxim 9.7mm (or maybe 9.8mm) and can definately say it's the best HANDLING rope I've ever used. As for the previous comments about gri-gri's and thin ropes, for the last 3 years, I've used sub 10mm ropes exclusively, current fav is a 9.4mm 70m Beal. Not saying I would recommend this rope for trad, but I have yet to have a problem using this thin rope with my gri-gri, regardless of petzl's "recommendations". Everyone I know uses sub 10mm ropes in their gri-gri's. So there ya go, I've used Mammut, sterling, beal and Maxim, all had very positive aspects, depending on application. Only one I wouldn't recommend is edelweiss, the one of theirs I had fuzzed out like a catepiller within a few months, and then just basically fell apart. Just pick the right charicteristics for what you're trying to do with the rope, and you almost can't go wrong.
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bill413
Oct 6, 2005, 2:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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FWIW - I was VERY pleased with the service I got from Just Ropes.com. Very speedy delivery, nice note enclosed.
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memory_hole
Oct 6, 2005, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2005
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You might want to check out the Edelweiss On Sight. It's a 9.9mm rope that held (if memory serves) 8 falls and registered an impact force of 8.4kN in the UIAA tests. It's relatively light at 62g/m (or was it 64?). It's also got the Everdry treatment and can be had relatively cheap at gearexpress.com. Mine was a bit stiff at first, but after only a few days at the crag it's already getting a nice supple hand.
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brent_e
Oct 6, 2005, 4:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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edelrid live wire is pretty supple. and if you're only outside 10 times a year it might last for a decent amount of time.
Comes in a 9.8mm
But mammut is nice!!!!
Brent
edit spelling
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gandolf
Oct 6, 2005, 4:55 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2005
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I know you said you perferred something under 10mm. But Gearexpress.com has an Eldeweiss Axis 10.3x60m Dry rope on sale for $120.00 (us). I have been very happy with the way it handles, and the price can't be beat.
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ccarver99
Oct 6, 2005, 5:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2005
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I too got the Bluewater Eliminator (10.2) and I love it! My partner has an Edelweiss that is under 10 mm, like 9.8 or something close to that. But, when comparing the two, I think my 10.2 is smaller than his, and it is much easier to work with. Some people say to go cheap on a rope, but to me, that is the one thing to spend the money on.
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