Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Anchor setup when soloing multipitch routes
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norge


Oct 11, 2005, 6:12 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2005
Posts: 5

Anchor setup when soloing multipitch routes
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Hello
This being my first post in this forum I'd like to thank everybody who write stuff here. It's been very helpful and I've read hundreds of great threads. Thank you!

Lately I've been getting into aid climbing, and I've done quite a few single pitch routes using my silent partner. I've also done a few multipitch routes clean aid. My question is really how you guys that solo stuff setup an efficient anchor where no bolts exist from beforehand?
Example: You setup an anchor to clean the pitch that you've just climbed. You clean the pitch, and you're ready to do the next pitch. Do you setup one anchor initially that will allow you to both clean and start the next pitch, or do you rearrange the anchor before you initiate the next pitch? As you might understand, I've found no good way in doing this. I hope someone can give me some idea, 'cause I just spend way too much time on setting this up.
Being from Norway my english is not great, but I hope you understand what I'm looking for...
Thanks


afiveonbelay


Oct 11, 2005, 7:24 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2003
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Re: Anchor setup when soloing multipitch routes [In reply to]
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This anchor to which you fix your rope to clean the pitch/jug the line/lead the next pitch must be multidirectional. Full strength in all directions (really only need up and down but always think worst case) with NO motion. That way you do not need to rebuild the anchor for leading. (There may be the odd circumstance that you have to build one anchor for cleaning/jugging and then rebuild it before you lead the next pitch, but you should always be thinking about how your anchor will serve your future needs.) Trad climbing faces similar issues where sometimes the anchor for best belaying the second is not the best anchor for leading the next pitch


areuinclimber


Oct 11, 2005, 4:30 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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Re: Anchor setup when soloing multipitch routes [In reply to]
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like afive said, you want one anchor that will do it all. i use 4 cams if the crack (s) are good. this way they can rotate (cams can rotate without fear of them coming out, providing the crack isnt flaring or wierd.) if this isnt possible than i would use 4 or 5 pitons which should be bomber enough and are always multidirectional (A1 placements).


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