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My Endurance at El Potrero Chico
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onsight_endorphines


Oct 12, 2005, 10:51 PM
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My Endurance at El Potrero Chico
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Hi All,

I am preparing for a Potrero trip here in a couple of months. I'm absolutely on cloud-9 about this, as it will be my first multi-pitch climbing experience. I'm going with a great friend, with some shiny new gear, and will be tent camping there for 8 days or so. I cannot wait to meet everyone and experience this place!!!

The reason for my post is, I'd like some general input regarding what you think my level of climbing will be, endurance-wise, at Potrero Chico. The big question is, am I really going to be able to climb past hundreds/thousands of feet of rock? What can I expect from say, several pitches of 5.10b? What should or shouldn't I get on out there?

At Reimer's Ranch, my lead onsight level is 5.10c and I'm reeeaaaalllly pumped when I clip the anchors. I redpointed War On Rugs (5.10d) with massive pump at the end. I cannot, under any circumstances, make it very far past the third bolt on Spider Grind (5.11b) without pumping and catching air.

I sincerely apologize if this comes across as spray, that's not my intention.

So, I'm endurance training now. Lots of traversing around the gym, and lap upon lap on TR. I'll be doing this three times a week for the next 2 months, tendonitis-permitting, being very careful with myself. I know 2 months isn't long.

Your input is much appreciated, thanks!


fracture


Oct 13, 2005, 7:50 AM
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Re: My Endurance at El Potrero Chico [In reply to]
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You'll be fine. Most of the multi-pitch routes in Potrero are less than vertical, so you're on your arms a lot less. However, your toes will start to hurt for sure if you are wearing your tight sport climbing shoes (take them off at belay stations and such).


justsaynototake


Oct 13, 2005, 8:09 AM
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Re: My Endurance at El Potrero Chico [In reply to]
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I agree with the feet hurting thing. My feet were killing me while waiting for my partner to finish the routes as I was sitting at a belay station. I had not had too much experience with that type of rock so it was definately different from what I am used to. But to answer your question, when I went I was climbing at or a little above your level, because when I was training (in the gym of course) I would lead 3 or 4 routes without going off rope or even off the wall sometimes, belay my partner, and then rinse and repeat. I know that being limited to the short height of the gym, relative to the awesome heights at Potrero, it was nice to get some serious endurance training. So training like that for several months was very helpful. Doing a lot of downclimbing seemed to help me as well. I was able to do Snot Girls (7pitches, 10d-ish was the max grade on the climb). So in other words, keep training and you will be fine.


thorne
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Oct 13, 2005, 8:31 AM
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Re: My Endurance at El Potrero Chico [In reply to]
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Do TR laps on routes 1-2 grades below your limit. Big holds.

If you're going to basically have fun and get in tons of climbing versus pushing your limits, then take it easy on the power/strength training. I know of too many examples of friends overtraining right before a big trip and popping a tendon.

If you're concerned about your leg endurance, try running steps.


naw


Oct 13, 2005, 9:22 AM
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I'm headed down there in a month for three weeks myself; I've never been before. I've been doing a lot of gym climbing on technical, vertical routes concentrating on footwork and endurance. Another thing I've found to be really helpful is just to get on a route that's very easy for you and up and down climbing it continuously for like 30 - 45 minutes...I believe Performance Rock Climbing refers to this type of training as capillarity training. Up until last month I was doing tons of climbing on overhanging bouldery routes and I figured I better start working on my endurance and footwork if I wanted to be confident on the stuff over there. From what I've heard, if you're good on your feet, the ratings over there can be pretty soft. Can anyone confirm?


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