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p0bray01


Oct 14, 2005, 3:31 PM
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Snake Dike bolting...
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Hmmm all this reading about these 140 footish run outs worry me. HAs anyone tried to add more bolts to Snake dike? Just curious. It would seem that someone would protect it better. Anybody know of projects on it? Just curious. :P


boltdude


Oct 14, 2005, 3:42 PM
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It already had bolts added to it, starting with the second ascent (bolts added by Steve Roper) - read about it in Roper's Camp 4 book. Originally had single-bolt belays with poor bolts...the FAs came back to the Valley telling the next folks to add some bolts. One of the first retrobolted routes in Yosemite (think the Dike Route in Tuolumne might have been the first).


Partner devkrev


Oct 14, 2005, 3:48 PM
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oh come ON!!
you're not even trying
lose some of the enthusiasm and specific detail
replace it with a facade of sincere curiosity
good luck catching anything


grayhghost


Oct 14, 2005, 3:51 PM
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Snake Dike has a long and strange history. While first climbed in 1912 by Dirk H. Ardman it did not see a repeat until 1972 when Royal Robbins added many of the protection bolts. As we all know, Robbins was heavily criticized for his rampant bolting and run out of Yosemite Valley.
Most people who climb the route these days use a method of advanced toproping in which they clip distant bolts using a stick. Many people have called for more bolts, but the 8-mile approach has made it a near impossibility to get a bolt-gun to the route.
A chartered helicopter seems the only solution, since the road to the base has been decomissioned for many years.
Hope this history info helps you out!


davidji


Oct 14, 2005, 3:51 PM
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Hmmm all this reading about these 140 footish run outs worry me. HAs anyone tried to add more bolts to Snake dike? Just curious. It would seem that someone would protect it better. Anybody know of projects on it? Just curious. :P
It's plenty well bolted. Except maybe for the slab traverse to the main dike. The max runout on Snake Dike is less than 100 feet, and on easy terrain.


firefly


Oct 14, 2005, 4:07 PM
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I think that snake dyke is what it is because of the run-outs. It probably wouldn't be much fun if it was bolted every 10 feet.


healyje


Oct 14, 2005, 4:27 PM
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Some of the finest Dingus and Brutus bait I've seen laid out in some time but they are way too wiley for such obvious and direct touts; you have to sneak up on 'em...


cragmasterp


Oct 14, 2005, 4:47 PM
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Snake Dike has a long and strange history. While first climbed in 1912 by Dirk H. Ardman it did not see a repeat until 1972 when Royal Robbins added many of the protection bolts. As we all know, Robbins was heavily criticized for his rampant bolting and run out of Yosemite Valley.
Most people who climb the route these days use a method of advanced toproping in which they clip distant bolts using a stick. Many people have called for more bolts, but the 8-mile approach has made it a near impossibility to get a bolt-gun to the route.
A chartered helicopter seems the only solution, since the road to the base has been decomissioned for many years.
Hope this history info helps you out! - grayghost

freakin hilarious!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


healyje


Oct 14, 2005, 5:01 PM
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In reply to:
Most people who climb the route these days use a method of advanced toproping in which they clip distant bolts using a stick.

Grayman - you are such a totally old school sketcher, get with the program dude...

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/...00/6299snakeclip.JPG


mdude


Oct 14, 2005, 5:46 PM
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grayhghost sure doesn't know about YOSE history.

MD


p0bray01


Oct 15, 2005, 6:41 PM
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Thanks for the interesting info. Yeah I got to thinking that it probably hasn't been botled due to tradition. Cause like firefly said it would not be snake dike if it had bolts every 10 feet. The only reason I even questioned it was (I try to be safe) was to allow more people to enjoy a nice climb up one of the worlds greatest monoliths with some added protection along the way. However, money and access issues are probably why it hasnt happened.... Thanks! :wink:


ambler


Oct 15, 2005, 7:05 PM
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In reply to:
grayhghost sure doesn't know about YOSE history.
IMHO his was the best post on this thread. What else can you say?

In reply to:
Snake Dike has a long and strange history. While first climbed in 1912 by Dirk H. Ardman it did not see a repeat until 1972 when Royal Robbins added many of the protection bolts. As we all know, Robbins was heavily criticized for his rampant bolting and run out of Yosemite Valley.
Most people who climb the route these days use a method of advanced toproping in which they clip distant bolts using a stick. Many people have called for more bolts, but the 8-mile approach has made it a near impossibility to get a bolt-gun to the route.
A chartered helicopter seems the only solution, since the road to the base has been decomissioned for many years.
Hope this history info helps you out!


chrismcnamara


Oct 17, 2005, 7:40 AM
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here is a link to a photo of your typical snakedike runout

http://www.supertopo.com/...lery.html?r=yohasnak


bandidopeco


Oct 17, 2005, 7:59 AM
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I guess you could add bolts, but on 5.4? 5.5? The crux is protected and after that it's as close to a ladder that you can naturally get. basically you only need bolts at the belays. Has there ever been anyone who took a fall once they got to the dike? I'd be surprised.


rockkid55


Oct 17, 2005, 8:32 AM
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SNAKE HIKE!!
the two times i've attempted to get on this route, I've ended up drinking too much the night before, which means I don't get on the trail untill 10, which means I get to Lost Lake just in time to realize I got up too damn late.
But someone should bolt that first little pitch up; I mean, falling off that would kill you. Once your above your first belay station, long run-outs are manageable. But it's basically a solo until then, from what i've heard. Crazy. But fun.


moonshine505


Oct 17, 2005, 8:49 AM
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sweet, after you're done bolting Snake DIke, take a tour up the pass and retro-bolt the bachar-yerian while you're at it, and when you're done, you can get strung up in Camp4, smeared with peanut butter and left for the bears. :lol:


jtt


Oct 17, 2005, 8:52 AM
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I don't think falling on the first pitch would definitely kill you, and you can protect it somewhat. When it's all said and done, all of Snake Dike is easy climbing, but it can be a head game for some people.

I have been curious to know if anyone has ever taken a huge fall on it though. It could happen.

jtt


gunked


Oct 17, 2005, 9:19 AM
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First of all...why is my 'laughing' smiley on acid?

Now...IMHO the first pitch is quite protectable for a slab climb. I'd probably give it a gunks PG13 rating. It also keeps the rif-raf off the climb. If you can't do the first pitch, good luck on the second! It's a YOS slab climb and bolted as such.

I remember having to wait for two parties ahead of us who barely squeaked out the first pitch, only to spend way too much time backing off of the second pitch.

Climbing is more than just a physical activity to me. It's a lifestyle and love rich in adventure, history and valuable life lessons. That said, I'm all for keeping with the history and tradition of the first ascent. Replace the bad bolts(Thanks Chris!) when necessary and make a solid anchor. Beyond that, if you can't take the heat, you're probably in the wrong frying pan. Come back when you're ready. The rock's not going anywhere!

-Jason :wink:


glowering


Oct 17, 2005, 9:39 AM
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What worked well (edit: as troll bait 8^) ) was a suggestion made about another run out climb on another forum.

Bolts would be added (not sport bolted, but no more than say 20 foot runouts) and the added bolts would be painted yellow. The original bolts would be painted green. Then you would have the option of not clipping the new bolts if you don't want to.


p0bray01


Oct 17, 2005, 9:41 AM
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interesting take.....something for everyone. :wink:


healyje


Oct 17, 2005, 10:04 AM
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Bolts would be added (not sport bolted, but no more than say 20 foot runouts) and the added bolts would be painted yellow. The original bolts would be painted green. Then you would have the option of not clipping the new bolts if you don't want to.

A clueless suburbanizing that would do nothing but attract crowds of folks who feel "safe" climbing is an entertainment entitlement - about as sad as I can imagine. How about flashing led's on each bolt for route finding while we're at it...


bill413


Oct 17, 2005, 10:19 AM
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How about flashing led's on each bolt for route finding while we're at it...
Wow - what this would do for night climbing!

And just think of the view, with all those pretty twinkling lights (or green and yellow splotches of paint, for that matter).


ambler


Oct 17, 2005, 10:27 AM
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What worked well was a suggestion made about another run out climb on another forum.

Bolts would be added (not sport bolted, but no more than say 20 foot runouts) and the added bolts would be painted yellow. The original bolts would be painted green. Then you would have the option of not clipping the new bolts if you don't want to.
Let me guess. You're a gym climber, right?


gunked


Oct 17, 2005, 10:32 AM
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In reply to:
What worked well was a suggestion made about another run out climb on another forum.

Bolts would be added (not sport bolted, but no more than say 20 foot runouts) and the added bolts would be painted yellow. The original bolts would be painted green. Then you would have the option of not clipping the new bolts if you don't want to.

Why stop there? Let's just grid bolt the sucker. Every 5 feet. We can paint those [violet]pink[/violet]. Perhaps an emergency call-box every other station for when the thunder starts rolling down Tenaya Canyon. I mean, come one now, I'm only thinking of people's safety here!

I'll attest that the line to be drawn is quite fuzzy.

That said, not everybody needs to climb every route. If you feel you must, then rise to the challenge. If you're incapable of climbing a route until it's "safer", then you're incapable of climbing the route. There's nothing wrong with that. If there is, then it's your ego that needs to be in check.

Let's not make history, tradition, the spirit of adventure and future parties suffer because our ego's need to be appeased! PLEASE!

-Jason


overlord


Oct 17, 2005, 10:53 AM
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again something for me to poop on, but alas, no poop today :P

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