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stenrude
Oct 18, 2005, 1:37 PM
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So, I've finally got enough cash to buy a rack and I'm trying to figure out what to get. If you were getting a whole new rack, what would you get and why?
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squiffany
Oct 18, 2005, 1:42 PM
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34C
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vegastradguy
Oct 18, 2005, 1:49 PM
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i already own everything i could want for gear...but theres always the new stuff that i dont already own. anyway, i like my trad rack the way it is.
here's a pic of it that my friend took before i led the Fox out at RR. It pretty much ate up the whole rack....except for the spare big cams and the bros, i left those at home.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=48300
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brent_e
Oct 18, 2005, 1:53 PM
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smaller aliens
DMM 4CU's (whole set with some 3CU's in the smaller sizes)
a few camalots in mid sizes
Hex's - maybe curved (metolius), maybe BD
DMM walnuts and peanuts
rack every DMM on the corresponding coloured prowire, camalots on trango classic wiregates
BALLNUTS
prowires for all trad draws (rope end) and maybe trango wiregates for gear
mammut 8mm slings
Why:
I've only placed the alien that I own, and I really like it and have heard such great things blah blah blah (everyone knows this). And they are a smallish company whom I like to support
DMM cams cuz they're light and I like the feel. BD to fill in some gaps.
Hex's because I find they are indispensable. Haven't tried the curved ones but the BD ones are great for what we do.
Wallnuts cuz they are sexy and i want to try them. peanuts for the same reason
Ballnuts because they give confidence in tight spots.
Prowires for the colour/size/reasonable weight/decent clip
trango classic because I just plain like them. Good feel.
Mammut slings cuz they are light and cool.
*sigh*
Thanks for rerding this crap. to the OP: what are you going to buy???
Brent
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microbarn
Oct 18, 2005, 2:01 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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6 of everything available
1.) guaranteed to have any piece I need at any given time
2.) if I used 5 of one piece I would still have one more to place
3.) I would be a minor god of gear in mythology, and everyone would be my friend.
4.) I would be able to appropriately play with everything eventually paring down what I take based on experience and preference
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landgolier
Oct 18, 2005, 2:02 PM
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where are you climbing?
Generally:
Aliens black to orange, BD starting at .5 or.75 depending on how much overlap you want going to 3 or 4 depending on where you live. ($500 at the ems sale this weekend is as cheap as this is going to get)
Set of frost longs, set of the new offsets (see you in november), 3-4 ovals to rack those. nut tool ($200 at mountain tools)
Pink and red tricams ($25, EMS sale again)
40 trango superfly wiregates (Anywhere with a good bulk discount on biners)
10 mammut 24" 8mm slings, 2 48" ($75, ems again)
2 Webolettes ($40 from mountain tools or get the yates ones)
Gear sling if you're into that ($20, whatev)
Lockers and belay devices I hope you have already, but BD XP guide looks nice. Get a BD or trango biner with round stock for your autoblocker, makes it run much better.
Bail tat
And please call me if you score all this crap at once and in 3 months decide you don't like climbing.
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angry
Oct 18, 2005, 2:35 PM
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Aliens Black to Orange with doubles (or more) on green through orange. The new alien sizes are totally optional, green, yellow, red, and orange great. The grey and gold aren't bad but are a bit redundant.
WC Tech Friends 2.0-4.0 get at least one set in tech, then you can get rigid friends for doubles. (For those of about to whine about rigid friends, use them and stop whining about gear you've never placed)
Find an old BD #4 or get a new Rock Empire Pulsar #6 (the C4 #4 is no longer the correct size, so it only works with an exclusively BD rack)
Tech Friends #5 and #6
Big Bro's 2,3
BD Stoppers
As far as biners and webbing, make your own call.
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wazzumountaineer
Oct 18, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Posts: 16
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A dream Free climbing rack:
RPs (tiny crack pro)
DMM wallnuts (they set really well)
BD stoppers (sometimes they sit better than DMM)
Tri-Cams - pink, red (good for horizontals or flaring placements)
Aliens - Blue - Orange (including the gray & gold ones)
BD Camalot C4 - .75 - 3 (range & feel)
Omega Pacific Link Cams - 1 & 2 (super cool especially for alpine)
Wild Country Tech Friends (above BD #3, up to the green one)
Trango Big Bros 1-3 (good for the desert or to protect offwidths in the alpine)
15 mammut 8mm 24" slings (light 'n fast)
2-3 mammut 8mm 48" slings (light 'n fast)
40-50 Trango superfly or lightwire biners (good biners for the price)
Trango lightweight lockers (2-3)
petzl attache lockers (2) (best for Munters IMO)
Trango Shark nut tool (2) ('cause it's got the knife)
Petzl Reverso or other autoblocking belay device (2)
Maxim tech cord cordelettes (2) (takes up less space on the rack)
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tarzan420
Oct 18, 2005, 3:37 PM
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In reply to: (For those of about to whine about rigid friends, use them and stop whining about gear you've never placed)
Amen to that!
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euroford
Oct 18, 2005, 3:41 PM
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as another guy who owns pretty much everything he wants, here is what i'd buy.
dmm 4cu's 1-4
camalots .75-4
wc 5 & 6
aliens, full set
zero's, yellow through red
rack the cams on dmm prowires
a bunch of mammut slings
a bunch of bd spectra dogbones
bd nuetrino's for all that stuff.
2 sets bd stoppers
1 set bd micros
1 set hb offsets
rack the nuts on petzl o-walls
when doubled on cams dmm's and bd's size well together, so do wc zero's and aliens.
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esoteric1
Oct 18, 2005, 4:40 PM
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I just bootied a dmm tcu the other day, first time ive seen one close up, do they all have pins instead of cam stops?
or was the one i found an old model?
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euroford
Oct 18, 2005, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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mine have very nicely machined cam stops. that must have been a really old dmm, unlike any i've seen before. It could have also been a metolius tcu, i do know that the old ones had pins for cam stops.
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omenbringer
Oct 18, 2005, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: I just bootied a dmm tcu the other day, first time ive seen one close up, do they all have pins instead of cam stops? or was the one i found an old model?
In reply to: rack every DMM on the corresponding coloured prowire |
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esoteric1
Oct 18, 2005, 5:32 PM
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ahh, i was wrong, its a trango tcu... not a dmm one, my old metolius tcu`s have pins as well, this piece is kinda awkward, its a 0 and its got pins, and no grooves on the cams...
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renohandjams
Oct 18, 2005, 5:51 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
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In reply to: So, I've finally got enough cash to buy a rack and I'm trying to figure out what to get. If you were getting a whole new rack, what would you get and why?
I have a whole set of tech friends now, but I think I like the max cams more.
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trenchdigger
Oct 18, 2005, 6:02 PM
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Actually, I already have mine and wouldn't change a thing...
:D
Pro:
_Passive:
__1 set (12) Cassin Nuts
__1/2 set of mid-sized DMM wallnuts
__BD Hexcentrics 6-10
__Camp Tricams Pink-Brn (5 smallest)
__BD Micronuts
_Active:
__BD Camalot C4s .5-5 w/ doubles of .75 thru 4
__WC Tech Friends #5 and #6
__Metolius TCU Set 00-4
__CCH Aliens (5) Blu thru Red
_Misc:
__12 24" Mammut 8mm runners
__2 48" Mammut 8mm runners
__Trango Superfly Wiregats for the pro end
__OP JC Wiregates for the rope end
__Misty Mtn Cadillac Harness
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slacklinejoe
Oct 18, 2005, 6:35 PM
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Passive
WC superlight rocks
ABC Huevos Or BD Nuts
BD Microstoppers
(2)Pink & (1)Red Tri Cams
HB Offsets (best find them soon)
Size 3-5 Big bros
Full set of Ball nuts
Active
Set of C4s from .75 Up
Aliens Black to Orange
Full set of Max Cams as doubles
15 Helium / Nanowire quickdraws on 7" spectra dogbones (ok, replace nano's with your preference *I* love this setup or with OP JC's) with a couple shorter ones for odd placements.
A bunch of the new 6mm mammut slings (when they come out - or go with their 8mm) in various sizes.
2 Webolettes
50 Helium Carabiners
8 Superfly lockers
A PAS
A custom made gear sling like my hybrid that goes single or double sling.
Have the biners annodized to match the cam color and if you like, have the cams restrung on longer doubled slings.
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billcoe_
Oct 18, 2005, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: i already own everything i could want for gear...but theres always the new stuff that i dont already own. anyway, i like my trad rack the way it is. here's a pic of it that my friend took before i led the Fox out at RR. It pretty much ate up the whole rack....except for the spare big cams and the bros, i left those at home. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=48300
Tradguy:
You want to get in the office pool? It's how long it takes for you to stand up once you've slung the rack over your shoulder, and how long you can continue stand up! :lol:
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tenesmus
Oct 18, 2005, 9:31 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
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So, what's your dream Indian Creek Rack? C4's or Metolius FatCams or something else. I know.. lots of them... But which would you get lots of?
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vegastradguy
Oct 18, 2005, 11:02 PM
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In reply to: Tradguy: You want to get in the office pool? It's how long it takes for you to stand up once you've slung the rack over your shoulder, and how long you can continue stand up! :lol:
:lol:
its actually not that bad- mostly due to all of the mammut slings and the helium carabiners! however, i really did feel the weight difference after i finished the route!
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stabla
Oct 18, 2005, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2005
Posts: 139
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I would prolly go with:
Full set of metolious power cams(w/ or w/out rangefinder)
BD micronuts(highly recommended if ya are in the SE)
Tri-cams(blue/dark blue/pink/red/brown)
Full Set of Aliens
Set of Metolious curved nuts
Trango Max Cams(i only carry sizes 1 and 2)
As for slings::i just bought a ton of webbing and made 24' ones
Full set of draws(i use the petzl spirits i had from when i sport climbed)
lockers and of course a descent belay device of some sort
I really like the new max cams so i would prolly get a few more of those than i actually have.
yahtzee!
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crshbrn84
Oct 18, 2005, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 223
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two sets of bd nuts
two sets of aliens black to orange
a full set of bd C4s with triple on red, yellow and blue
for biners use neutrinos
for trad draws use the really thin mammut slings with bd hotwire biners
for draws, i like the 18cm bd quick silver draws.
the fun thing is, that is practically my rack i just dont have triples on yellow and blue, that and im missing 5 and 6 of the bd C4s, with that you can climb damn near anything
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climbinginchico
Oct 19, 2005, 12:24 AM
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Full set BD stoppers.
Full set HB offsets.
Full set Aliens Black-orange
Full set Hybrid Aliens
Full set new C3's 000-2
Full set C4's .4-6, Doubles 1-6
Full set Trango MaxCams .5-3
Full set BigBro's 2-5
Camp tricams pink-brown
Mammut 8mm dyneema slings
Heliums for racking and trad draws and misc.
Superfly and Positron lockers for general use
BD ATC-XP guide with belay biner
2 nylon shoulder slings (just in case)
2 WC 10mm dyneema cordalettes
Misty Mountain Cadillac Harness.
Metolius multi loop gear sling (if wanted)
BD or trango shark nut tool.
Mammut 9.2mm 70m dynamic rope.
Indian Creek Rack:
8 each of every size C4 and/or maxcam.
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esoteric1
Oct 19, 2005, 1:01 AM
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pssssssscha....
wild country rigid stemmed cams from 1 to 4 with an extra 3
metolius tcu`s doubled up
metolius fcu`s to 6 doubled up to 4
bd 1,2,3
alien offset black-blue, alien blue, orange.
wild country rocks full set
bd nuts, full set
hb offsets 2brassies up to one size down from the biggest aluminum one
the rest of the crap i have is all either booty that ive got no idea what it is, and an old set of hex`s I havent used in eons.
add a couple of screamers and various slings/draws
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stenrude
Oct 19, 2005, 2:42 PM
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Thanks for your input everyone! I'm going to go over everything and I'll let you know what I end up getting.
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