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hard core shizzle in NY
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alpine_monk


Oct 19, 2005, 8:30 PM
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hard core shizzle in NY
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anyone interested in a winter (say january) acent of Wallface in the dacks??? maybe I should post this in NY climbers thread, but they seem like a bunch of soft ass poofs.


marc801


Oct 19, 2005, 9:19 PM
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What's "hard core shizzle"?
What's a "soft ass poof"?
WTF are you talking about?


lambone


Oct 19, 2005, 11:10 PM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.


bubbahotep


Oct 19, 2005, 11:17 PM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

You ever tried walking your white ass through Harlem at 2:00 AM?


Partner taino


Oct 20, 2005, 4:24 AM
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anyone interested in a winter (say january) acent of Wallface in the dacks??? maybe I should post this in NY climbers thread, but they seem like a bunch of soft ass poofs.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/negative8.jpg

T


Partner taino


Oct 20, 2005, 4:26 AM
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In reply to:
anyone interested in a winter (say january) acent of Wallface in the dacks??? maybe I should post this in NY climbers thread, but they seem like a bunch of soft ass poofs.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/negative8.jpg

T


clarki


Oct 20, 2005, 4:53 AM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

apparently you have never been to NC :roll:


cfnubbler


Oct 20, 2005, 5:26 AM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

You're so right. The Himalaya is for pussies.

-Nubbler


piton


Oct 20, 2005, 5:33 AM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

You ever tried walking your white ass through Harlem at 2:00 AM?

i have


pawilkes


Oct 20, 2005, 6:04 AM
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all this damn slang impeding proper communication.


saphius


Oct 20, 2005, 6:38 AM
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What we have here, is a failure to communicate!

~ Couldn't help myself :)


Partner happiegrrrl


Oct 20, 2005, 6:40 AM
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Humbly, I submit; I am a soft-ass poof, when it comes to the suggested endeavor.

But, I know of one or two folks who could probably take the OP on. Alas, he was an ass(as in hole, no poofery about it) to me in another thread.

Suffer, you rc.n00b*, and know that the wrath of happiegrrrl is ferocious.




*Note: The term "rc.n00b" has nothing to do with the poster's actual ability. Rather, it is an indication of their uncouth tactics in internet forum interaction.....


joshy8200


Oct 20, 2005, 6:48 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

apparently you have never been to NC :roll:

TROPHY! :lol:


lambone


Oct 20, 2005, 9:00 AM
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:roll:


shakylegs


Oct 20, 2005, 9:15 AM
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Suffer, you rc.n00b*, and know that the wrath of happiegrrrl is ferocious.

What, you bore your victims to death with logorrhea?


Partner happiegrrrl


Oct 20, 2005, 10:09 AM
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shakylegs....I missed it somewhere along the way, but it's not gone unnoticed. When did you switch from begging me for more multisyllable words to making fun of a condition from which you yourself suffer?

Edited for a word to Alpine-monkey: Don't worry that all this excess postage might defray from the value of your message. Consider it a service, in that we are helping to keep your post at the top of the forum, and on the front page. All the better for some other alpinist to see it, and hopefully respond. See...I'm not all that bad.....


alpine_monk


Oct 20, 2005, 1:32 PM
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Soft ass poof: one who participates exclusively in “fair weather” climbing, synonymous with “punter” or “sport climber”. .. No, N.Y. does not have hard core routes but I thought Wallface in the winter would be the biggest challenge I could through my self at while I am here. I am working as a snowmaker all winter (12 hour shifts 5 days a week) so I don’t really have the time to get up to NH. Anyway, if anyone is interested in doing some exciting winter climbing drop me a PM.


all_that_is_rock


Oct 20, 2005, 1:41 PM
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I'm in!!!!!! how does the Eastern Shield sound? I was up there in the spring and looking at the guide book it looks like there are some unclimbed dihedrals just to the left of the shield about 300 feet up. PM me

Charlie


pico23


Oct 26, 2005, 11:38 PM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

So you've never been to Wallface then? Or Katahdin? Or the Presidentials in the dead of winter? I love when people out west think they are the only place to mountaineer or alpine climb.

On the OPs post what route did you have in mind? Rock or ice? Supposedly there is ice at Wallface but I've never seen a photo of an ice climber on a route there, I've never seen a direct line when looking at the cliff in winter, and even the Mellor book is skeptical that there is ever enough ice there to make a trip worthwhile.

If there were ice routes I'd have assumed that some badass national (one of the Lowes) or regional ice climber would have put something notable up on the most remote big wall in the Northeast. On the flip side I'm sure some of the rock routes would be interesting winter climbs. Even Weisner and Case Routes could be interesting objectives.

Interested to hear what you had in mind?


pico23


Oct 26, 2005, 11:53 PM
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.. No, N.Y. does not have hard core routes but I thought Wallface in the winter would be the biggest challenge I could through my self at while I am here. .

So then you've climbed these routes in NY, perhaps, you'll lead them for me again since I didn't get to see these guys do the FA's. BTW, according to Mellor Bloody Mary is unrepeated perhaps you can do a second ascent to confirm the grade for us all. Unless things have changed substantially Gorillas in the Mist is still considered on of the hardest sustained mixed routes in the world. Jeff Lowe just put that one up for shits and giggles while in the Daks since there wasn't anything else worth climbing :lol: Purely speculation on my part since I'll never climb at these grades but I believe locally Ed Palen has put up or been part of quite a few cutting edge FA's on ice and mixed routes. I'm sure he might disagree that there is nothing hard core. And there is potential for many more FA's.

BLOODY MARY M7?
This time it was the late Alex Lowe who came east and pushed standards up a notch. Bloody Mary is an historic John Turner summer rock route that follows the first big steep corner system right of Gamesmanship. The first pitch ends at a ledge 40 ft. up. Pitch two is solid 5.9, climbed in summer by laybacking and edging on good holds left of the crack. Lowe scratched his way up this pitch with full-on flat-footed laybacking, ice tools in the crack and feet on intermittent verglas. The real crux, however, was the tight corner above, a summer 5.8. The only ice was in the depth of the dihedral, where a thin runnel offered purchase for a tooth or two of an ice hammer. The route remains unrepeated.
FA Alex Lowe 1996


GORILLAS IN THE MIST M6+ NEI 5+ 500 ft.
This is an historic route, considered by Jeff Lowe to be one of his most significant first ascents in North America. Begin toward the right-central portion of the so-called “big wall” section, home to big rock routes like Sailor’s Dive, the Gathering, and Messiah. Specifically, Gorillas begins directly below the prominent It Don’t Come Easy pillar. The bottom is the technical crux, requiring what Jeff Lowe called “cat scratching” up a shallow right-facing corner, followed by a hard layback about 30 ft. up. A bolt on this rock start, called Foreplay, was appreciated. The route follows the bottom section of the pillar, moves right a bit, then heads up and way left across a slab to a large right-facing corner and fatter ice to the top.
FA Jeff Lowe and Ed Palen 2/96


ARTIFICIAL GRAVITY NEI 6- 220 ft. faces NE el. 1700 ft. (unreliable)
An extraordinary lead by Yandon, linking smears and blobs 40 ft. left of the last pitch of Power Play. The rock is so steep here that the route forms only when the wind blows mist in at the wall. Finishes dramatically out the curtain.
FA Tom Yandon and Joe Szot 3/98


quiteatingmysteak


Oct 27, 2005, 12:43 AM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.

You're so right. The Himalaya is for sissies.

-Nubbler

Well... under this supposition... The rockies are east of the rockies! ZOMFGZ!


qwert


Oct 27, 2005, 2:23 AM
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don't kid yourself, there is nothing "hard-core" east of the Rockies.
new york hardcore!
it seems as you know nothing bout hardcore. new york and all of the east have to offer some pretty cool hardcore stuff.
n00b! :D

qwert


alpine_monk


Oct 27, 2005, 2:18 PM
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^^^My response to the NY naysayer was under the supposition that by “hardcore” he meant hideously long, involving altitude, and prone to avalanche. I know plenty of winter mixed routes in NY are above my ability but lets face it, with wallface clocking in at around 700 feet and being the tallest cliff in NY, under the above stated definition (common definition of hard routes in alpinism) it’s not really hardcore. Hard yes!!!! But comparable to a winter accent of the grand…no. just my opinion.

P.S. I’m NOT some west cost elitist, and I DO understand the historical significance of NY in the climbing world, But let’s face it people, if you want Serious (capitol S) alpine climbing not many people travel to NY to find it.

Dorian


alpine_monk


Oct 27, 2005, 2:21 PM
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Interested to hear what you had in mind?
If there is no ice I plan on doing Lewis Elija, or the Eastern Shield. If there is ice I will investigate.

Dorian


pico23


Oct 27, 2005, 3:22 PM
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^^^My response to the NY naysayer was under the supposition that by “hardcore” he meant hideously long, involving altitude, and prone to avalanche. I know plenty of winter mixed routes in NY are above my ability but lets face it, with wallface clocking in at around 700 feet and being the tallest cliff in NY, under the above stated definition (common definition of hard routes in alpinism) it’s not really hardcore. Hard yes!!!! But comparable to a winter accent of the grand…no. just my opinion.

P.S. I’m NOT some west cost elitist, and I DO understand the historical significance of NY in the climbing world, But let’s face it people, if you want Serious (capitol S) alpine climbing not many people travel to NY to find it.

Dorian

Understood. Agreed there are few routes that offer all the above, but many offer a few of the variables together minus altitude. And realistically with proper acclimatization is there really any true altitude in the lower 48? I've never had any major problems going from 500ft to 12-14k over 2 days while carrying a big pack, sleep like a baby too. many have even fewer problems with just a few days of acclimitization. some people take as much as 2 weeks though. bottom line is below say 20,000ft you can adapt quite well to the altitude making it nearly useless as a factor. the problem is most people don't have the time to fully acclimatize do to short schedules and so 12K feels like a bitch over a short week of hard climbing.

But Wallface does make a good challenge just because of the relative remoteness. I've had fun climbing there but never did anything harder than the Weisner corners/chimneys 5.5 or the Case Route (3rd and 4th with a final 5.3 traverse with 600+ feet of air under you).


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