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jono13
Aug 3, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Oh the humanity! Letting oneself get weak is not a good thing! I did weights for about the first time in a month two days ago, and maaaann my triceps hurt today But, I gots to get strong again! It seems like my sport climbing abilities seem to be slipping on me But oddly enough, my bouldering abilities are up Anyone know why this might be? Could the loss of muscle maybe be causing less weight, and thus less weight to pull on both, but not enough finess for sport climbing? Cheers
jono
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overlord
Aug 6, 2002, 7:41 PM
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because you got stronger and you lost endurance. has to do with the %% of muscle doing the work and stuff. work on endurance.
CLIMB ON
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beyond_gravity
Aug 6, 2002, 7:52 PM
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maybe cuz you boulder way more then sport climb?
Just a thought.
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wildtrail
Aug 6, 2002, 7:56 PM
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Yes. Like Rasto said.
I have a good size build from weight lifting. I have the same problem. I have lots of "power", but the "endurance" is gone. Muscles can be big, but that doesn't mean they can last. Sure, I can curl quite a bit, but I am working on a different program. Less weight, more repetitions to build endurance. I get pumped almost immediately and I am working on ridding myself of that problem. So, you know bouldering revolves around power and power moves, there is your answer. Sport climbing required you to climb longer and sustained, giving you endurance, whereas bouldering is huffing and puffing and pulling hard, then you're done. Start leading more to redevelope your endurance.
Steve
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rollingstone
Aug 6, 2002, 8:04 PM
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Say, it occurred to me that perhaps where yer livin' is the problem, eh? I've heard that livin' in the North requires up to 60% greater effort for the same result due to the exchange rate, you know.
Try some boulderin' south of the border (bring yer guns if yer comin' to the States so ya' don't have some undefended drive-by trad climber insultin' ya) and see if ya don't get more results.
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arete242
Aug 6, 2002, 8:19 PM
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does weight training really help overall climbing performance?
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minos
Aug 7, 2002, 6:31 PM
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Hey arete242, Eric Horst (author of How to Climb 5.12) has done a bunch of research on that subject, and he says that weight training won't help your climbing more than maybe 5%. Weight training is very specific to certain muscles, where climbing requires many muscles to fire in a certain order, with a certain intensity to make a single move. For more info, go to his web page at www.trainingforclimbing.com .
Then again, if you don't want to get tendonitis, it's recommended you work on your antagonistic muscles (ie, triceps, chest, upper forearms etc) or they will get strained from your stronger "climbing" muscles.
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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 9, 2002, 2:59 PM
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Weight lifting? Bah! Weight lifting is for sissies! Just go out and climb. Climbing is the best training for climbing. I find that weight lifting is more for defining the body, and for added dynamic strength.
I used to lift weights a little last year. Unfortunately, the complex (where the weight gym was a part of) workers went on strike for eight months. Talk about your bad luck! Eventually the place went under due to falter services. Haven't lifted weights since.
Have used the hangboard though, and am still climbing. I have noticed that my bouldering is improving too! But it's because of bouldering, not weight lifting, for me.
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wigglestick
Aug 9, 2002, 3:06 PM
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Munchkin- I used to think the same thing, that weight training was a waste of time for climbing. Then I dislocated my shoulder while working a route with a hideous gaston on it. Climbers develop certain muscles very well, like back muscles. But you need to have a balanced musculature system to prevent serious injuries. I know you are young and probably won't have any problems but wait until you are old, like 22.
Now I lift weights a couple times a week just to keep the rest of my body in shape so hopefully I won't have any more serious injuries due to muscular inbalances
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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 9, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Yes, weight lifting can keep you in good shape to aid your climbing abilities, as well as to prevent injury. However, climbing can also aid your climbing abilities, as well as to prevent related injury. This sounds quite absurd, yet a better explanation is such:
It is rare that one will climb deliberately beneath their general level of ability whilst climbing. This is common fact. There are advantages in doing such, which can replace weight lifting by both keeping you physically fit (diminishing your likenesses of related injury), as well as aid your dynamic strength.
I say climbing below your average level of ability can turn into a world of good for dynamic strength by doing a very simple exercise: do not use your feet. If this proves not to help you (considering your shoulder trouble) use significantly small foot holds in place of "no foot holds." Better yet, rather than campusing each move (to and fro the jugs) smear with each foot.
In this instance, the weight you will be lifting is your own, the weight that matters on the rock - and, you will be deleterious to your risk of injury. Not to mention the fact that you will be building general body conditioning and fitness.
A very simple idealistic training guide for weight lifters...
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tylerphillips
Aug 9, 2002, 4:22 PM
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I refuse to lift weights, but I can still summon enough power when needed. But by doing lots and lots of hard 11's I have gotten my endurence up farther than previous years. So maybe do lots of routes that are kinda hard for you but defeinatly not your top level.
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barney_89012
Aug 10, 2002, 7:21 AM
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i lift four times a week, but i do it to get more definition, and when i stop my climbing abilities go down.
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