Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


jderekforrester


Oct 23, 2005, 10:14 PM
Post #1 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2002
Posts: 104

Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What are the most common winter aid routes on the Diamond on Long's Peak. I know D7 is pretty popular but I was looking for something that is classic and has good hard aid, A3 and above. How is steep is flat or Christopher robin? I am most worried about gettin pummeled by an avi from above, so which routes have good roofs?

Thanks


jer99


Oct 24, 2005, 7:51 AM
Post #2 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2004
Posts: 24

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

As soon as I saw the title I knew this could only be you...

Diamond in winter, hard aid, avalanches.....ill be in Jtree.

good luck though. :roll:


dangle


Oct 24, 2005, 11:07 AM
Post #3 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was up on Long's in full winter conditions.



What was I thinking?


mistymountainhop


Oct 24, 2005, 11:21 AM
Post #4 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 410

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jack of Diamonds?


Have fun climbing a giant ice cube sans ice.


chris_sheridan


Oct 24, 2005, 12:27 PM
Post #5 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2005
Posts: 34

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've tried D7 in winter twice. Once we got hit by a nasty blizzard and didn't even make it up the north chimney. Then a second time spent a beautifull night on broadway and made it up the first pitch when my partner decided it was too cold.

Anyway, I think Jim Beyer's route on the right side was first climbed in the winter. And if you want hard aid, a Jim Beyer route will certainly qualify.

I wouldn't worry about avalanches as soon as you get on the diamond. Only the slopes leading up to the base are all that prone to sliding.

I've thought that it might be best to solo it. That way you never have to sit around belaying and get cold.

chris


jderekforrester


Oct 26, 2005, 5:38 PM
Post #6 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 14, 2002
Posts: 104

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

has no one actually climbed the diamond in winter?


chris_sheridan


Oct 26, 2005, 5:56 PM
Post #7 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2005
Posts: 34

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's been done, but I've never met any who's done it. Last year (or maybe the year befor that) it was climbing in winter in, car to car, in a day.


dangle


Oct 31, 2005, 10:36 AM
Post #8 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Beyer's route Sunshine was done in August 1975 while I watched from 100m away.

Have difficult time calling a head pounded into a row of shallow drilled holes "hard aid" as opposed to very poor bolting.


chris_sheridan


Oct 31, 2005, 10:49 AM
Post #9 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2005
Posts: 34

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the correction. It's always nice to here from someone who was there first hand. I had gotten my information from a guy I met while climbing on Longs. As we hiked down, he told me he once helped Beyer carry gear to the base of the east face in winter for a new route. Despite being good friends, Beyer insisted on paying for the service. However, the guy telling me these stories struck me as a bit off his rocker.

The climbing community would be much better off if we were more in touch with our own history, yet there are so few recources with which to do so.


flamer


Oct 31, 2005, 11:30 AM
Post #10 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
How is steep is flat or Christopher robin? I am most worried about gettin pummeled by an avi from above, so which routes have good roofs?


Christopher robin would be a bad choice. It is directly below the north face and see's lot's of run off....and could see avi danger from above.

You're going to want to look at stuff more in the center of the face.....Steep is flat would be a possibility. Look at the Dunn-Westbay, supposedly the best aid line on the Diamond and supposedly it's anchors have all been beefed up(ie bolted) in recent years. It's also free from MAJOR water course's.

:lol: Ron O talking shit about Beyer's tactic's....classic!! :lol:

josh


dangle


Nov 1, 2005, 3:42 PM
Post #11 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Josh when I pull out the drill its for everybody's anchor NOT JUST MY OWN.


Please refresh my memory. Which of your routes are people lining up to do again?


dangle


Nov 2, 2005, 8:19 AM
Post #12 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well Josh ?



For the rest of you; last year Josh claimed for credibility to be friends with me and then went on to make false assertions about me.



I wasn't talking sh#t. I was talking technique and the philosophy behind it.



What I have to say about posers might be another thing...




C'mon Josh, which routes?


flamer


Nov 2, 2005, 9:19 AM
Post #13 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You're too easy Ron....... :lol:

josh


dangle


Nov 2, 2005, 10:08 AM
Post #14 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Easy or not it still would be nice to get an answer from you. If you are so bored that the only thing you have to keep you busy is baiting others maybe you need to try out spending some time at the sharp end on something new.



Who knows, maybe you'll acquire more respect for those who do.


dangle


Nov 2, 2005, 11:37 AM
Post #15 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
How is steep is flat or Christopher robin? I am most worried about gettin pummeled by an avi from above, so which routes have good roofs?


Christopher robin would be a bad choice. It is directly below the north face and see's lot's of run off....and could see avi danger from above.

josh

I think that Chris was right about low avalanche danger on the Diamond but I think that it is because it is so steep that even if the N face above one cut loose then most material is likely to be launched out past climbers and the shock wave is quickly disipated. I've watched this from Chasm View.
The most risk would be topping out. Best done quickly.
At least on the right one can descend to CV fast.


flamer


Nov 2, 2005, 2:16 PM
Post #16 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Easy or not it still would be nice to get an answer from you. If you are so bored that the only thing you have to keep you busy is baiting others maybe you need to try out spending some time at the sharp end on something new.



Who knows, maybe you'll acquire more respect for those who do.


As much as I want to bait you more Ron I know where it all leads with you....

You get the respect you deserve.....


josh


flamer


Nov 2, 2005, 2:18 PM
Post #17 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Easy or not it still would be nice to get an answer from you. If you are so bored that the only thing you have to keep you busy is baiting others maybe you need to try out spending some time at the sharp end on something new.



Who knows, maybe you'll acquire more respect for those who do.


Ron you are the easiest fish to catch.....

You get the respect you earn....and it has nothing to do with how many routes you've done.

josh


dangle


Nov 2, 2005, 8:59 PM
Post #18 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
the respect you earn.... has nothing to do with how many routes you've done.

josh



Is this a climbing forum or Dr. Phil's self-help tough love seminar for underachievers?


dangle


Nov 2, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #19 of 19 (3609 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: Winter Aid Routes on the Diamond [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

puddle toast


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook