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michaelmay513
Aug 4, 2002, 4:56 PM
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I TRAIN 3 ON AND 4 OFF, WHEN I CLIMB I CLIMB UNTIL FAILURE. I FOLLOW THE ZONE DIET AND EXERSISE AT THE GYM ON MY OFF DAYS. I'M TRYING TO BREAK INTO 5.14 ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS ( WHAT ARE YOUR TRAINING PROGRAMS? SILLY OR NOT)
[ This Message was edited by: michaelmay513 on 2002-08-04 10:21 ]
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likethegoddess
Aug 5, 2002, 1:08 AM
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WHEN YOU POST, YOU'RE YELLING AT EVERYONE.
Well, I'm nowhere near your level. I boulder a v0-v1, but I'll give you my general routine anyway. Especially since I started my post by giving you shit.
Firstly, my work is physically demanding. I'm a bodyworker 15-25 hours a week which gives me good overall body strength, especially hands, feet, calves, forearms, upper back and shoulders. I stretch my hands at least daily because of the work I do and other stretching as needed. I should be doing more than that. Oh, well.
Climbing wise, I'm working in the gym once or twice a week. Personally, I'm working on being able to work out in the gym and do bodywork in the same day. I've done it, but it's a lot.
Gym usually includes warm-up on rowing machine (ergometer??), full stretching, free weights for upper body and added chin-ups for 20 minutes maybe, climbing till failure, 30 minutes cardio, and sauna, baby, sauna.
I'm not real intense on my diet, though I do work on the high protein, low carb, fresh fruits and veggies tip. For work/workouts, carbs before and protein after (animal protein, like beef).
Best of luck.
[ This Message was edited by: likethegoddess on 2002-08-04 18:10 ]
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theclimer
Aug 5, 2002, 1:14 AM
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What exactly is a "bodyworker?"
Regards,
Jeff
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jt512
Aug 5, 2002, 2:43 AM
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Michael, considering that you are climbing 5.13+ and the rest of us aren't, I have a quesiton for you. When you say that you "train" 3 days on, 4 off, do you mean that you climb 3 days on, 4 off? If so, why? I think that most trainers would say that if you are going to climb 3 days a week that you should space them out a little more.
-Jay
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likethegoddess
Aug 5, 2002, 6:49 AM
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Jeff, a bodyworker is somewhat like a massage therapist. Bodyworker indicates more of a focus effecting change in the body (deep muscular work, structural work and the like) whereas a massage therapist *may* focus more on a relaxing style of work. I'm not saying that a massage therapist does not effect change in the body. A massage therapist may also do deep muscular and structural work. Bodyworker says more, to my mind, is more specific about what I do.
[ This Message was edited by: likethegoddess on 2002-08-04 23:50 ]
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theclimer
Aug 5, 2002, 12:22 PM
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Got it...thanks. You must have strong hands!
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barney_89012
Aug 10, 2002, 8:09 AM
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just let time do its thing.
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marks
Aug 13, 2002, 6:52 PM
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ive climbed 5.13a.trad. i dont really train just climb.weights are not a great help in my opinion.i use a campus board once a week.do some pull ups and lock offs.my diet is anything i want,but i avoid fatty stuff.
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likethegoddess
Aug 13, 2002, 7:25 PM
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It's a weird kind of strength. I can crimp really well, but slopers are a real challenge.
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minos
Aug 13, 2002, 10:36 PM
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You've probably thought of this already, but why are you NOT climbing 5.14? At that level, it is usually something very specific (ie endurance, crimp strength, fear). If you are only training what you are already strong at, you'll never break through. It's the whole Eric Horst mentality, but it works.
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