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dharmasoldat
Oct 27, 2005, 4:53 PM
Post #26 of 67
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 33
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Wow... these are exactly the type of posts I was looking for. Although I must admit I did not correctly predict the use of the 'rack joke' so many times. :wink: Great job! I'm sure those who are looking to ask questions regarding this will find pearls of wisdom. Speaking of which, I also was wondering how much the type of rock you were going to climb factored into your decisionmaking when buying your first rack. And again, awesome replies guys.
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caughtinside
Oct 27, 2005, 5:32 PM
Post #27 of 67
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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I climbed for over two years on my old roommate's rack. Worked great, as I didn't have to buy anything, and he was semi-retired from climbing. It was a nice setup as well, probably 12 cams (mostly camalots), a set of nuts and 10 or so runners. I'd still be using it probably if I didn't move out, that was a more expensive decision than I realized. Hell, I even used his quickdraws for all the sport climbing I did. He had the double mambas, which were hot shit at the time. It's too bad not everyone can get going that way, it saves you from making expensive mistakes, and you don't have to spend a ton of money to get started. I see lots of folks now with a grand invested in their rack who have never led a thing.
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tweek
Oct 27, 2005, 6:23 PM
Post #28 of 67
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Registered: Sep 27, 2003
Posts: 171
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So i built mine over quite some time with leads intermixed so I'll present a step wise progression. 1) Metolius curve nuts - full set, nut tool Placed these a few time on "sportish" climbs that required pro as well. 2) Metolius FCU 4-8 Lead some hard 5.1 (it really was hard) 3)Metolius TCU 00-4 Lead some more 4) #10 Trango Flex cam (interesting story about this one - I was at a local shop asking for beta about the climb I was going to do and what size pro was needed. The clerk said he only needs a few cams and a couple nuts and that worse climbers carry a lot more than that.... ohh and some people need a 3.5 inch cam but only a p***y leader needs that. At this point I bought that 3.5 inch cam. I know myself. It was sure great to have on that climb too) Couple of hex's which I made into runners to extend placements when I ran out and have still never placed on lead. Lead some more 5) Couple of splitter gear two cams (how can you say no to a <25 dollar cams in the finger size range?) Lead some more 6) Second set of nuts I've added a lot to it since then but that was able to get me up most stuff. As you can imagine the more stuff you add the wider range of climbs become available to you. So initial racks mean your doing either run-out climbing on long climbs or you just bought a full rack and are starting making it a beginner rack.
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climboard
Oct 27, 2005, 6:51 PM
Post #29 of 67
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Let's see- I started with Bd stoppers 4-10, the four smallest Tricams, Hexes 6-10, and the cheapest slings I could find. My advice would be to use other's gear as long as you can so you can see what you like and what you don't. After I got a few Camalots I stopped using the hexes and then when Camalot juniors came out I ditched all but the two smallest Tricams.
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ambler
Oct 27, 2005, 7:09 PM
Post #30 of 67
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Back in the 1960s, the Wind Ridge in Eldorado was a nice beginner's route. Still is, I think. It would be interesting to chart how the average dollar value of a Wind Ridge leader's rack had changed over the years. I'd guess there's a universe of difference between the inflation-adjusted cost of the ten or so nuts that seemed plenty in the 70s, and the fistfuls of BD cams, wires, draws etc. you'd see up there today. Same thing regarding the quality of cars in the lots, climbing clothes and so forth. It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests.
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greengoblin
Oct 27, 2005, 7:21 PM
Post #31 of 67
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Registered: Jan 4, 2005
Posts: 55
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-Metolius curved nuts -Pink through orange tri-cams -Yellow and red Aliens -Blue, purple, red, orange, and yellow HB cams -Green and blue Metolius Fatcams I also bought an assortment of biners, 24" runners, and 48" runners
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iltripp
Oct 27, 2005, 7:27 PM
Post #32 of 67
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1607
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I set of BD hexes... some draws... that was it...
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sparky
Oct 27, 2005, 8:11 PM
Post #33 of 67
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
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even size BD stoppers odd sized bd hexs a 50 m rope 6 draws
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mcfoley
Oct 27, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #34 of 67
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
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10 draws full set of stoppers Misc hex's misc biners and then one month later I bought FULL set of camalots (I mean Full!!)
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leewee
Oct 27, 2005, 8:34 PM
Post #35 of 67
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Registered: Mar 19, 2004
Posts: 33
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it was a process growing what id call my first rack but what i had in mind and eventually got and still use as my primary rack is: full set of BD stoppers full set of TCU's ( i love these) camalots from .4-3 also some slings and stuff oh and a pink tricam!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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microbarn
Oct 27, 2005, 8:35 PM
Post #36 of 67
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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In reply to: It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests. I think you are forgetting to account that most of the people on RC.com are not normal. You have a ton of desk jockies that are doing something on a computer most of the day. So, they are probably more well paid than the average climber out there on the rock. Most people that I run into out there in the "real" world make fun of all of us on RC.com. I can't blame them. As for my current and first rack: first three tricams one bootied WC #5 nut one .75 camelot and my partner's rack
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microbarn
Oct 27, 2005, 8:43 PM
Post #37 of 67
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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I also forgot to admit that "yes, I deserve the reputation as much as the next guy for being an RC.com'er"
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markc
Oct 27, 2005, 8:47 PM
Post #38 of 67
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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In reply to: As for my current and first rack: first three tricams one bootied WC #5 nut one .75 camelot and my partner's rack Those aren't the typical first purchases. Supplimenting your partner's rack?
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microbarn
Oct 27, 2005, 8:59 PM
Post #39 of 67
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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yes, my purchases were for supplementing my partner's rack. tricams were a supplement to my partner's rack bootied nut is self explanitory camelot was a christmas present from slightly ill informed parents
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punk_rocker333
Oct 27, 2005, 9:40 PM
Post #40 of 67
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Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Just started trad this month. Currently I have: 1 rope 10 ACE keylock sport draws 1 set of ABC Huevos 1-13 1 set of Metolious Curved Hexes 1-10 (got for $50 from this site) 4 BD corded hexentrics I got for $3 each (couldn't resist) nut tool 1 sewed dynama sling I found and some tied ones 4 BD quicksilver screwgates webbing I really need to by some more non-locking biners. Those really come in handy for everything. Hopefully all of this passive gear makes me proficient in placing it. Maybe I'll get cams when I have more money.
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ambler
Oct 27, 2005, 9:52 PM
Post #41 of 67
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
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In reply to: In reply to: It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests. I think you are forgetting to account that most of the people on RC.com are not normal. You have a ton of desk jockies that are doing something on a computer most of the day. So, they are probably more well paid than the average climber out there on the rock. Most people that I run into out there in the "real" world make fun of all of us on RC.com. I can't blame them. Well, you're right that RC.com isn't "normal" -- I suspect that the (dollars of gear owned)/(years of experience) ratio for RC.com users overall is high. There's a reason that users on other sites refer to this one as RC.n00b. But my original observation came from what I've seen at the crags -- I used Wind Ridge as an example, but you might be able to substitute just about any popular, long-established beginner's route and see the same trend towards more affluent climbers (even if we only looked at, say, the college students among them).
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davidji
Oct 27, 2005, 10:16 PM
Post #42 of 67
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
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For my first rack, the hardware included 5 Metolius TCUs, 3 Tech Friends, 4 Camalots, 1 set BD nuts. Got a small set of Tricams too, around at the same time. I bought most of the above in a package deal, which if the package is right, can be a great way to go. Buying a little at a time is OK too. Really depends on your situation.
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wings
Oct 27, 2005, 10:44 PM
Post #43 of 67
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 283
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In reply to: even size BD stoppers odd sized bd hexs I'm sure there's an interesting story behind this. - Seyil
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philfell
Oct 27, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #44 of 67
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Registered: Nov 3, 2004
Posts: 149
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Two sets of stoppers. I'm lucky I'm still here.
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montentcontent
Oct 28, 2005, 1:16 AM
Post #45 of 67
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 48
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Gets shipped in tomorrow!!! BD Stoppers 1-13 BD Hexes 4-10 Pink and Red Tricams BD C4s .4-6 28x BD Hotwires 8x Mammut 24" slings 2x Mammut 48" slings 2x 21' Cordelette 10x BD Quicksilver Screwgates Nut tool 4 Rap Rings and 10' of webbing (bail gear! haven't climbed long/hard enough to have bootied stuff to leave behind) already have: basic gear and 12 BD QS/HW Draws near future(christmas): Red, Yellow, Green Aliens Getting down to the Red to put it to some use on Saturday!
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roddack
Oct 28, 2005, 1:29 AM
Post #46 of 67
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 24
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I started with no money so passive it was for about four years 1 set of nuts and hexes and a bunch of tri cams Due to this I still climb mainly passive, but have a bunch of plug and chugs, more nuts, fewer hexes, and pretty much the same tri cams ( love these babies)
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jacobg
Oct 28, 2005, 1:34 AM
Post #47 of 67
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 103
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a bd bod harness (padded) atc xp omaga jake beiner some used shoes and a chalk bag from before i was born! then i got 4 draws 2 old stoppers an orange tricam and 1-3 wired hexes shit load of webbing a rope some cordalette and 8-12 over the shoulders and 3 lockers and then i sold most of it, and now im starting again with my harness, a new chalk bag, same stinky shoes, another xp, and a couple beiners..... i think i need a job
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thegreytradster
Oct 28, 2005, 1:57 AM
Post #48 of 67
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
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One Lost Arrow One Baby angle Two or three "Regular" 3/4" angles One 1" angle One 1-1/4" angle A Bell Telephone linemans hammer with the handle sawed down. An odd assortment of caribiners including a couple of steel ones that weighed about a pound a pice and looked like someone in Bulgaria made them in his garage. We did most of the easier classics at Tahquitz with that and plenty (at least a 1/2 dozen) slings. Got real good at tieing things off. But then, The Trough was 5.0 and Angels Fright was 5.4. I guess the climbs got harder. :wink:
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nrvna963
Oct 28, 2005, 2:18 AM
Post #49 of 67
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Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
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8 nuts and 3 camp tri cams
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brutusofwyde
Oct 28, 2005, 7:47 PM
Post #50 of 67
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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120 feet of Goldline 7/16" rope. 5 blindgate aluminum ovals 1 knifdeblade 1 bugaboo 2 ea. std. angles 1 ea. 1" angle 1 Forrest Foxhead 1 home-made aluminum wedge harness was 14 feet of 1" tubular webbing.
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