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What was your first rack?
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dharmasoldat


Oct 27, 2005, 9:53 AM
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Wow... these are exactly the type of posts I was looking for. Although I must admit I did not correctly predict the use of the 'rack joke' so many times. :wink:

Great job! I'm sure those who are looking to ask questions regarding this will find pearls of wisdom.

Speaking of which, I also was wondering how much the type of rock you were going to climb factored into your decisionmaking when buying your first rack.

And again, awesome replies guys.


caughtinside


Oct 27, 2005, 10:32 AM
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I climbed for over two years on my old roommate's rack. Worked great, as I didn't have to buy anything, and he was semi-retired from climbing.

It was a nice setup as well, probably 12 cams (mostly camalots), a set of nuts and 10 or so runners. I'd still be using it probably if I didn't move out, that was a more expensive decision than I realized. Hell, I even used his quickdraws for all the sport climbing I did. He had the double mambas, which were hot shit at the time.

It's too bad not everyone can get going that way, it saves you from making expensive mistakes, and you don't have to spend a ton of money to get started. I see lots of folks now with a grand invested in their rack who have never led a thing.


tweek


Oct 27, 2005, 11:23 AM
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So i built mine over quite some time with leads intermixed so I'll present a step wise progression.

1) Metolius curve nuts - full set, nut tool

Placed these a few time on "sportish" climbs that required pro as well.

2) Metolius FCU 4-8

Lead some hard 5.1 (it really was hard)

3)Metolius TCU 00-4

Lead some more

4) #10 Trango Flex cam (interesting story about this one - I was at a local shop asking for beta about the climb I was going to do and what size pro was needed. The clerk said he only needs a few cams and a couple nuts and that worse climbers carry a lot more than that.... ohh and some people need a 3.5 inch cam but only a p***y leader needs that. At this point I bought that 3.5 inch cam. I know myself. It was sure great to have on that climb too) Couple of hex's which I made into runners to extend placements when I ran out and have still never placed on lead.

Lead some more

5) Couple of splitter gear two cams (how can you say no to a <25 dollar cams in the finger size range?)

Lead some more

6) Second set of nuts

I've added a lot to it since then but that was able to get me up most stuff. As you can imagine the more stuff you add the wider range of climbs become available to you. So initial racks mean your doing either run-out climbing on long climbs or you just bought a full rack and are starting making it a beginner rack.


Partner climboard


Oct 27, 2005, 11:51 AM
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Re: What was your first rack? [In reply to]
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Let's see- I started with Bd stoppers 4-10, the four smallest Tricams, Hexes 6-10, and the cheapest slings I could find.

My advice would be to use other's gear as long as you can so you can see what you like and what you don't. After I got a few Camalots I stopped using the hexes and then when Camalot juniors came out I ditched all but the two smallest Tricams.


ambler


Oct 27, 2005, 12:09 PM
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Back in the 1960s, the Wind Ridge in Eldorado was a nice beginner's route. Still is, I think.

It would be interesting to chart how the average dollar value of a Wind Ridge leader's rack had changed over the years. I'd guess there's a universe of difference between the inflation-adjusted cost of the ten or so nuts that seemed plenty in the 70s, and the fistfuls of BD cams, wires, draws etc. you'd see up there today. Same thing regarding the quality of cars in the lots, climbing clothes and so forth. It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests.


greengoblin


Oct 27, 2005, 12:21 PM
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-Metolius curved nuts
-Pink through orange tri-cams
-Yellow and red Aliens
-Blue, purple, red, orange, and yellow HB cams
-Green and blue Metolius Fatcams

I also bought an assortment of biners, 24" runners, and 48" runners


iltripp


Oct 27, 2005, 12:27 PM
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I set of BD hexes... some draws... that was it...


sparky


Oct 27, 2005, 1:11 PM
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even size BD stoppers

odd sized bd hexs

a 50 m rope 6 draws


mcfoley


Oct 27, 2005, 1:23 PM
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10 draws
full set of stoppers
Misc hex's
misc biners and

then one month later I bought

FULL set of camalots (I mean Full!!)


leewee


Oct 27, 2005, 1:34 PM
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it was a process growing what id call my first rack but what i had in mind and eventually got and still use as my primary rack is:
full set of BD stoppers
full set of TCU's ( i love these)
camalots from .4-3
also some slings and stuff
oh and a pink tricam!!!!!!!!!!!!!


microbarn


Oct 27, 2005, 1:35 PM
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In reply to:
It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests.

I think you are forgetting to account that most of the people on RC.com are not normal. You have a ton of desk jockies that are doing something on a computer most of the day. So, they are probably more well paid than the average climber out there on the rock. Most people that I run into out there in the "real" world make fun of all of us on RC.com. I can't blame them.

As for my current and first rack:
first three tricams
one bootied WC #5 nut
one .75 camelot
and my partner's rack


microbarn


Oct 27, 2005, 1:43 PM
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I also forgot to admit that "yes, I deserve the reputation as much as the next guy for being an RC.com'er"


markc


Oct 27, 2005, 1:47 PM
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In reply to:
As for my current and first rack:
first three tricams
one bootied WC #5 nut
one .75 camelot
and my partner's rack

Those aren't the typical first purchases. Supplimenting your partner's rack?


microbarn


Oct 27, 2005, 1:59 PM
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yes, my purchases were for supplementing my partner's rack.

tricams were a supplement to my partner's rack
bootied nut is self explanitory
camelot was a christmas present from slightly ill informed parents


punk_rocker333


Oct 27, 2005, 2:40 PM
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Just started trad this month. Currently I have:

1 rope
10 ACE keylock sport draws
1 set of ABC Huevos 1-13
1 set of Metolious Curved Hexes 1-10 (got for $50 from this site)
4 BD corded hexentrics I got for $3 each (couldn't resist)
nut tool
1 sewed dynama sling I found and some tied ones
4 BD quicksilver screwgates
webbing

I really need to by some more non-locking biners. Those really come in handy for everything. Hopefully all of this passive gear makes me proficient in placing it. Maybe I'll get cams when I have more money.


ambler


Oct 27, 2005, 2:52 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
It's a much richer world at the crags, as this thread attests.
I think you are forgetting to account that most of the people on RC.com are not normal. You have a ton of desk jockies that are doing something on a computer most of the day. So, they are probably more well paid than the average climber out there on the rock. Most people that I run into out there in the "real" world make fun of all of us on RC.com. I can't blame them.
Well, you're right that RC.com isn't "normal" -- I suspect that the
(dollars of gear owned)/(years of experience)
ratio for RC.com users overall is high. There's a reason that users on other sites refer to this one as RC.n00b. But my original observation came from what I've seen at the crags -- I used Wind Ridge as an example, but you might be able to substitute just about any popular, long-established beginner's route and see the same trend towards more affluent climbers (even if we only looked at, say, the college students among them).


davidji


Oct 27, 2005, 3:16 PM
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For my first rack, the hardware included 5 Metolius TCUs, 3 Tech Friends, 4 Camalots, 1 set BD nuts. Got a small set of Tricams too, around at the same time.

I bought most of the above in a package deal, which if the package is right, can be a great way to go. Buying a little at a time is OK too. Really depends on your situation.


wings


Oct 27, 2005, 3:44 PM
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In reply to:
even size BD stoppers

odd sized bd hexs

I'm sure there's an interesting story behind this.

- Seyil


philfell


Oct 27, 2005, 4:09 PM
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Two sets of stoppers. I'm lucky I'm still here.


montentcontent


Oct 27, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Gets shipped in tomorrow!!!

BD Stoppers 1-13
BD Hexes 4-10
Pink and Red Tricams
BD C4s .4-6
28x BD Hotwires
8x Mammut 24" slings
2x Mammut 48" slings
2x 21' Cordelette
10x BD Quicksilver Screwgates
Nut tool
4 Rap Rings and 10' of webbing (bail gear! haven't climbed long/hard enough to have bootied stuff to leave behind)

already have: basic gear and 12 BD QS/HW Draws
near future(christmas): Red, Yellow, Green Aliens

Getting down to the Red to put it to some use on Saturday!


roddack


Oct 27, 2005, 6:29 PM
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I started with no money so passive it was for about four years
1 set of nuts and hexes and a bunch of tri cams

Due to this I still climb mainly passive, but have a bunch of plug and chugs, more nuts, fewer hexes, and pretty much the same tri cams ( love these babies)


jacobg


Oct 27, 2005, 6:34 PM
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a bd bod harness (padded)
atc xp
omaga jake beiner
some used shoes
and a chalk bag from before i was born!

then i got 4 draws
2 old stoppers
an orange tricam
and 1-3 wired hexes
shit load of webbing
a rope
some cordalette
and 8-12 over the shoulders
and 3 lockers



and then i sold most of it, and now im starting again with my harness, a new chalk bag, same stinky shoes, another xp, and a couple beiners..... i think i need a job


thegreytradster


Oct 27, 2005, 6:57 PM
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One Lost Arrow

One Baby angle

Two or three "Regular" 3/4" angles

One 1" angle

One 1-1/4" angle

A Bell Telephone linemans hammer with the handle sawed down.

An odd assortment of caribiners including a couple of steel ones that weighed about a pound a pice and looked like someone in Bulgaria made them in his garage.



We did most of the easier classics at Tahquitz with that and plenty (at least a 1/2 dozen) slings. Got real good at tieing things off.

But then, The Trough was 5.0 and Angels Fright was 5.4.



I guess the climbs got harder. :wink:


nrvna963


Oct 27, 2005, 7:18 PM
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8 nuts and 3 camp tri cams


brutusofwyde


Oct 28, 2005, 12:47 PM
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120 feet of Goldline 7/16" rope.

5 blindgate aluminum ovals

1 knifdeblade
1 bugaboo
2 ea. std. angles
1 ea. 1" angle
1 Forrest Foxhead
1 home-made aluminum wedge

harness was 14 feet of 1" tubular webbing.

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