|
theclimer
Aug 5, 2002, 12:16 PM
Post #1 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
I just happen to have a Silent Partner solo belay device from Wren Industries. While I know that it is fine for use in either toproping or leading free climbs, is there any reason that I couldn't use it for leading aid pitches? I can't think of any.
I ask because now that I'm "getting into aid," and have a basic theoretical understanding of the aid climbing process, I'd like to bolster that understanding with real world experience. Unfortunately I don't have a partner that is willing to sit around for hours on end while I flail 15 feet off the ground trying to lead an A0/A1 pitch. The Silent Partner seems to be the perfect answer - it's patient and, well, quite silent!
Anyone have any comments on this?
Regards,
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Aug 5, 2002, 7:33 PM
Post #2 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
George is right.
I have a Silent Partner. This is THE SAFEST soloing device one can have. The Soloist and Solo Aid are good, but do not hold inverted (upside down) falls, so the SP is highly recommended.
It goes where you go and there is not cost to high (225 bucks!) for your safety. I would really recommend you get the SP above the Soloist or Solo Aid. Especially if soloing is new to you. You can get the other two after learning what you need to know to go lighter.
Advice: If some one tells you they use and ascender or GriGri.......run. Some people do, but that is definitely not the right tool. Can work, but you are increasing risk of injury or worse, dramatically.
Steve
My two cents.
|
|
|
|
|
glockaroo
Aug 5, 2002, 7:45 PM
Post #3 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
Well, now we know fer shur dood that this site's ranking system is flawed. Here we have a guy rated as "honemaster" who says to run from those who solo on a GriGri, and that the solo-aid doesn't catch inverted falls.
I smell a BWT...
To the original poster: yes, use the Silent Partner since you have it. It's bulkier than a clove hitch, GriGri or solo-aid but you will love it when you have to step out of the aiders and do some freeclimbing.
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Aug 5, 2002, 7:54 PM
Post #4 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
okay, I have a PMI sponsorship (which doesn't necessarily mean anything), but they are linked to Petzl. the GriGri is NOT a soloing device, nor is it recommended. The Soloist and Solo Aid, which I do not own, are said to not catch inverted falls. In otherwords, the camming mechanism is said to be unidirectional. Or, one way, in otherwords.
Honemaster means nothing, its just means I have a lot of posts.
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
jgorris
Aug 5, 2002, 8:01 PM
Post #5 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2002
Posts: 124
|
It was spoken:
Here we have a guy rated as "honemaster"...
The Q rating system works as advertised. The title you refer to comes from the number of posts, without any claim as to relative quality. I myself care not about those titles, because I am a legend in my own mind.
Peace.
|
|
|
|
|
glockaroo
Aug 5, 2002, 8:04 PM
Post #6 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
Ok, trail, sorry about that. I was a little heavy w/ the sarcasm. Sorry.
But FYI, the soloaid is both designed for and good at catching inverted falls.
I realize the grigri is not marketed as a solo device. However, some of the world's top aid soloists swear by it (within its limitations). I have soloed on a grigri for years, taken falls on it, and had no problems.
If you back it up properly, it is no less safe than any other solo belay method, and better than most.
To equate grigri soloing with using an ascender is incorrect.
|
|
|
|
|
glockaroo
Aug 5, 2002, 8:06 PM
Post #7 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
My comment about the rating system was meant in jest. I understand how it works.
I just thought it blissfully ironic that someone with that rating was giving bad beta.
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Aug 5, 2002, 8:08 PM
Post #8 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
No harm, no foul my friend.
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
theclimer
Aug 5, 2002, 8:16 PM
Post #9 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
Thanks for the laughs, gents...now if it only quit raining here I could go to my local chosspile, rope up with my SP, and try aid-camming my way up the Cub Scout Cracks.
Cheers,
J
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Aug 6, 2002, 6:48 AM
Post #10 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
You must understand that the Silent Partner was specifically built with guys like you in mind. I have solo aided with my silent partner as well as using the clove hitch method and have found them to be good systems but I actually prefer my SP.
One thing you will need however is a reasonably new shiny not so fat rope so the the SP will feed really easy.
...Phil...
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Aug 6, 2002, 9:04 AM
Post #11 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
I have soloed quite a bit with the S.P. on an 11. mill. rope, works fine!!!----I have also used a gri gri and a clove hitch to solo,you would be amazed how easy it is to solo(free climbing even!!)on a clove if you get it wired!!!
On travesering pitches(when I solo) I use the gri gri for pendys!!--I bet there is some way to do a pendy with a SP> anybody got any ideas?
I say go with the SP for soloing over the gri gri(which works fine) The rope feeds through the SP. like no other device!!!!Also the best info on rope solo free climbing,is the manual that comes with the SP.---I use clove hitches for the back up loops in the free end of the rope,and clip them into a sling girthhitched to the loop on the front opf my harnes.(make sense?hard to explain)the clove is easy to unclip with one hand while climbing.Also use clove for rebelay every 30 feet or so,on a bomber placement.
hope this helped,there are other threads on the SP.,we should link them up.
Cheers
R
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Aug 6, 2002, 9:11 AM
Post #12 of 12
(3734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
Wildtrail,the number of your posts,is 666-!!!!----It is a sign,I think we should all pay homage to your awsome RED POWER!!!!!
PS.--Grant me great climbing powers master!!!!!!---just don't ask me to give up my soul,James Brown would be pis&ed!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
