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Most Comfortable Aiding Shoes
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climbingcowboy


Aug 5, 2002, 5:28 AM
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 Once agin the begining aid climber needs to ask a stupid question please humor me again?Im looking at getting some shoes to stay in since Im getting more into aiding, when I did 1-2 pitches I would put up with my climbing shoes pain while in aiders, and my approach shoes are the tevas I've always used, so what is the most comfy when you guys/gals are hanging up there for multi-pitch aid routes to multi-day aid routes?
Once again thanks in advance, Geoff


passthepitonspete


Aug 5, 2002, 11:09 AM
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Personally, I use 5.10 El Caps, which is more or less a beefed up approach shoe with sticky rubber.



The shoes are comfy, but not very rugged. They disintegrated after only one wall - even the sole wore out! - but 5.10 sent me a new pair, and they seem to be doing a bit better.

I would recommend against 5.10. It is possible the El Cap has been discontinued.

I have done some aiding in my lightweight leather alpine boots, and they work fine, despite having Vibram rather than sticky rubber soles.

Other aid climbers use a more beefy boot like the La Sportiva Trango



which as you can see is beefy indeed.

I think just about any approach shoe will work.

I also climbed a bunch of walls in Garmont Sticky Weekends, which I believe has now been replaced with the Garmont Sticky Twist.



These became quite a superb wall shoe after I blew out the toes, and had them retreaded. They lasted about eight walls and four retreads, before the shoe guy told me not to bring them back any more....

Your best wall shoes may appear after their first retread!

The key here is to choose a shoe with a bit of support, and is robust enough to withstand the rigours [with] of standing in aiders and hauling.

Hope this helps you, Cowboy.

Just keep those spurs pointing away from the rock, eh?

Cheers,

Dr. Piton


cygnus


Aug 5, 2002, 11:54 AM
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What about the five ten Guide Almighty? It's a comfy shoe and seems to be rather rugged.


climbingcowboy


Aug 5, 2002, 8:17 PM
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 Thanks for the info. Now that I'm learning to become GREAT aiders like you all I'm sure this will make standing in my aiders for hours on end learning to place all this gear much more comforatable.

Thanks geoff


wallhammer


Aug 5, 2002, 8:26 PM
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at the risk of a very broad generalization, i find FROM MY OWN experience that NOTHING 5.10 makes is durable. dont get me wrong, i like their shoes and boots, but EVERY pair i have ever owned (and damn thats a lot) falls apart fast. Len (the Elmelda Marcos of climbing shoes and mountaineering boots)


krustyklimber


Aug 5, 2002, 8:41 PM
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No matter what shoes you wear you can make them considerably better by adding a pair of Superfeet insoles.

I have the 5.10 Bugattis approach shoes, and they have got to be the most durable 5.10s ever made. I have been wearing them everyday for 9 months now. and other than the clip in loops coming off and the soles getting thin they have been awesome! I wish I had bought more when I had the chance.

Jeff


blacksamba


Aug 5, 2002, 9:07 PM
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what about the la sportiva mega dru, which has the sticky vibram sole of the trango but built around the mega last?

I tried a pair on and they look super comfy and able to climb free and aid moderatly well... but they were a little spendy so i went to the salvation army and got a pair of old high tech's

any just wondering if anyone has tried them?


gunked


Aug 14, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Cygnus,
To answer your question about the 5.10 Guide Almighty. My buddy bought a new pair of these 2 days before we headed into the valley to climb Zodiac this spring. After three pitches his toes were exposed. Thank god for duct-tape. He really didn't enjoy freeing 5.8 with a 60 pound rack and duct-taped shoes. Kinda slick!!!

I've heard many bad thing about 5.10 shoes and boots. Specifically about the durability.

I use a pair of La Sportiva boulder high-tops with "wall-armor" added to them. Wall armor is basically a beefed up toe cap that also helps to eliminate sole delamination. They'll probably last a few walls before another resole is needed. Marmot Mountain Works in Berkeley, CA is where I got mine done. Those guys really know their shit! If interested, their number is 510-849-0735.

Good luck!

By the way, Superfeet insoles are one of the best investments I've ever made! Now, if I can only figure out how to keep the sides and heel (the rubber) from delaminating!?! It's worth it to be able to free 5.10 in them!

[ This Message was edited by: gunked on 2002-08-14 01:44 ]


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