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njclimber23
Oct 31, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Which nuts do you think are better BD or Metolius?
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grk10vq
Oct 31, 2005, 2:52 AM
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Which do you think are better Apples or Oranges?
i prefer Apples.
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caughtinside
Oct 31, 2005, 4:10 AM
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Both are nice.
BDs are 6.75
Metolious are 10.50
That's a big difference for regular nuts, IMO.
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lajhanata
Oct 31, 2005, 4:26 AM
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What about all the other nuts out there? I climb on BD's but have a few replacements that are Wild Country rocks. The difference is so minimal I don't even notice. I like that the BD's are anodized. I've climbed on metolius curves, smileys, all that stuff. They all do basically the same thing. Anybody climbing on those ultralight Wild Country tapers? They look like a pain to get loose. Anybody who feels particularly loyal to a specific brand, please say why. Maybe I'm missing some good gear beta.
And oranges are way better than apples!
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nedsurf
Oct 31, 2005, 6:07 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
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I carry metolius and smileys :lol: on my rack. The smileys are almost the same as the BDs. they sort of complement each other to make a fit anywhere nut set.
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robo555
Oct 31, 2005, 6:23 AM
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From pictures, Smileys and BDs look pretty much the same, but Smileys are cheaper. Their anodized colours are kinda ugly though (yes it matters!).
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drytooler
Oct 31, 2005, 8:28 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2005
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Hey i have full rack wild country half rack dmm and some black diamond nuts. But the best nuts on the market are the Hugh banner HB offset nuts.best shape placement and security.
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thetroutscout
Oct 31, 2005, 9:23 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2004
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In reply to: Anybody who feels particularly loyal to a specific brand, please say why. Maybe I'm missing some good gear beta.
I'm partial to ABC Huevos/Smiley's. Why? Because they are identical to BD stoppers at a much more affordable price. Then I don't feel so bad if I leave/fix/drop one.
^^ike
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bill413
Oct 31, 2005, 1:15 PM
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In reply to: Which do you think are better Apples or Oranges?
I like Wild Country Rocks, primarily because that was the first set of nuts I bought, & learned on.
Apples, Oranges...depends on the season.
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keinangst
Oct 31, 2005, 1:44 PM
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ABC Huevos -- good function, great price
They should really change their slogan to "Make sure you bring your Huevos!" or "Trad climbing goes better with Huevos" :D
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static_endurance
Oct 31, 2005, 3:52 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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What would be best suited to the rock you climb on, a curved side or a straight side?
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skateman
Oct 31, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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I have both Metolius and BD. The Metolius have pretty much been retired only because most of my partners use BD. One of the differences that I noticed aside from the shape is that the Metolius in the smaller sizes have thicker wire than the equivalent BD. In the smaller sizes this means a Metolius wire may not be able to fit into a constriction due to the extra thickness. However, it may/may not mean the Metolius is a little stronger.
Dan
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tweek
Oct 31, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2003
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In reply to: What would be best suited to the rock you climb on, a curved side or a straight side?
I'll second that. I have both (well ABC huevos = BD, and then real Met.) and thier use entirely depends on the rock and placement. They compliment each other nicely.
For the record I am allergic to oranges so even though I prefer them I am going with apples.
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vegastradguy
Oct 31, 2005, 5:31 PM
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Like most types of gear, most of the decision lies in personal preference.
BD's (and Huevos, etc) are sort of the standard stopper- generic, but highly functional.
Metolius are more on the unique side, and personally, i feel that they are less functional than the BD's. I've never been happy with placing them- the few times i've used them I was wishing for a BD.
My rack today consists solely of HB Offsets- which in Red Rock are an amazing tool. I did a route yesterday that would have had marginal protection (if any) with BD's or Metolius but with the HB's, the pro was solid- cams weren't an option.
Anyway, a good stopper set is one that is generic enough to work well 90% of the time as well as being usable by your partners as well. Given that criteria, i'd go with the BD's (or similar) for your first set.
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jimdavis
Oct 31, 2005, 9:14 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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It depends on the type of rock you climb on too.
I got a set of Metolius because the granite I frequent is very coarse grained and has a ton of crystals to mess with your gear. The curved nuts tend to sit well around this stuff.
For fine grain stuff, I think the BD's might sit a little better at times.
I told myself I'd get a second set, a set of BD's to compliment by Metolius nuts...and I haven't felt the need to yet.
Both work fine, I'd say think about the type of rock you climb on most, and go from there.
Cheers,
Jim
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bobruef
Oct 31, 2005, 9:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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got a set of each on my rack. I think they compliment each other nicely, the metolius often seem to sit nicer for me in a lot of the metamorphic rock here in MD. If i can't get a great fit with a BD, I reach for a Met of the same size and vice- versa. Love 'em both.
-bob
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