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glowering
Nov 3, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Hi All,
I emailed the access fund and have posted the update below (with permission). I am probably going to start a climber's organization. I don't have much spare time so I'm going to probably keep it very simple (e.g. no incorporation / no non-profit status, no dues), but I figure something is better than nothing. Just the fact that there is an organization with a list of members should only help our position.
I'll post later with instructions how to join, etc. Anyone who wants to help or even take the lead is encouraged to do so.
"I'll told you them chickens is organized"
http://thecia.com.au/...es/chicken-run-9.jpg
Here is the info for starting an organization for anyone interested:
http://accessfund.org/getinvolved/startlco.php
In reply to: Hi Steve, Thanks for your note and concern about the Quarry. As you probably already know, access to the Quarry is a complex issue due to the fact that the land is owned, leased and managed by different entities. The Bureau of Reclamation (BOR) owns the land, a mining company named Teichert Aggregates leases the land, and the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA) manages the land. Access for climbing is further complicated by the fact that BOR has issued a multi-year lease to Teichert to mine and reclaim project lands in the area of Cool Cave Quarry. Somewhere in the near future earthwork and blasting will begin in order to mine and reclaim portions of the area – exactly which portions I do not know, but from what I understand not where the climbing takes place. I don’t know who you contacted, but Alison Chandler, our volunteer regional coordinator in the Bay area has been to the area, reviewed maps and legal documents, met with Jill Dampier, Superintendent for ASRA, and has had phone conversations with Jacqueline Ball, Gold Fields District Superintendent for California State Parks. I have also reviewed various documents, and had conference calls with Alison and local climber John Robinson. At our request, Ms. Ball wrote a letter to the BOR seeking clarification as to whether or not climbing could be allowed. BORs response was an emphatic no for the time being, but they indicated that although the Glory Hole area will be reclaimed, the remaining Auburn Dam and Reservoir project lands can be considered for rock climbing as part of their new Interim Resource Management Plan (IRMP), which is in the works. We suggested to John Robinson that he form a climber group in the area to carry on the work of getting the Quarry re-opened. We suggested that due to the complexity of issues, that he find local climber attorney’s and other volunteers with land use expertise to get involved. To my knowledge, no group has yet formed to represent local climbing interests.
I can be reached at progame@hotmail.com put Auburn Quarry as the Subject
-Steve Fettke
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caughtinside
Nov 3, 2005, 8:22 PM
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Ditto what Rough said. That's more info than we've gotten from the Access Fund rep ever. It's also the first I've heard of the lower quarry, the area below the Glory hole/well being part of a plan for future climbing use. Well, we have heard about the 'use plan' for several years now, and nothing has happened on that front.
It's very disappointing that I get a different version of what's going on at Auburn from everyone I talk to.
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glowering
Nov 9, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Ok folks. I'm going ahead with a climbers organization and will make sure the public officials making decisions know there is a group of people who want to make climbing legal at Auburn.
The name I'm probably going to use is:
Auburn State Recreation Area Climbers Coalition
Unless there is a better suggestion. I like including Auburn State Recreation Area because - hey it's a recreation area, so of course you should allow climbing! But maybe it should be Northern California Climbers Coaltion to be more regional? Thoughts?
Please email me or PM me your name, email address, and city you live in, to be included. No dues or anything. I'll just be including your name in the list of people who want climbing at Auburn.
I'll probably arrange a voluntary crag cleanup day yearly. And maybe bouldering events if it is not illegal like roped climbing, I'll look into it.
-Steve
progame@hotmail.com
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charley_climber
Nov 10, 2005, 5:21 PM
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I think this is a great idea. As a more long term goal of the Auburn State Recreation Area Climbers Coalition I would suggest a board of review that would approve all new route development and police for chipped and contrived routes.
After all " Bolts are not tatoos... they do real damage and need to be minimized. " :roll:
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dingus
Nov 10, 2005, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: I think this is a great idea. As a more long term goal of the Auburn State Recreation Area Climbers Coalition I would suggest a board of review that would approve all new route development and police for chipped and contrived routes. After all " Bolts are not tatoos... they do real damage and need to be minimized. " :roll:
Its a quarry. The whole thing is contrived. Just say NO to buttinski committees that were 'no where to be found' when the routes went in. You could just say thank you to the primary motivator for developing the area... I did.
On a side note and more worrisome, is Rep. John Doolittle, R-Auburn, has inserted a line item in the budget bill to provide 45 million for a feasibility study to reinitiate the Auburn Dam project. He says floood control but its really to line the pockets of his developer/doaners. The closer to reality that dam creeps the farther from reality will climbing down there be.
DMT
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glowering
Nov 10, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Doolittle's gotta fill the pork barrel somehow.
I don't think a flood control dam (which would face an uphill battle now) would effect the quarry. The quarry is pretty high up. But the parking might be an issue. There is a parking lot that is higher up, but it's PGE and gated.
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dingus
Nov 10, 2005, 9:39 PM
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What starts as a flood control dam can quickly morph into a multi-purpose one and give all those houses up on the ridgeline the shoreline they were promised when the houses were built, lol.
Shit the damn dam was supposed to be dead forever when the diversion tunnels were sealed.
And then Matt Suey died. I hope his wife is as clever as he was.
But your point is well taken.
Cheers
DMT
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howzit_rockin
Nov 12, 2005, 5:06 PM
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I'm new to the lifestyle (of climbing)...but even before I got started I looked at that quarry and thought "that'd be an awesome place to rock climb." I grew up up in Cool, and I currently live in Foresthill. The temptation to climb there grows stronger each day I learn something more about climbing. I've been there many times over the passed few months just to "look around," I was definately not "scouting out the routes." Anyway...I see those cliffs everyday...literally. I drive by them everyday, and everyday they cry out to me for the attention they deserve...j/k. I just really want to learn a lot on those routes. Unfortunately, I can't devote all my time to this cause, but I would like to sign what I need to and help where I can. I'm glad to see the ball is a rollin'.
Rock on,
Ken
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leezerdgirl
Nov 12, 2005, 7:16 PM
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I don't know what a dam at Auburn would do to the developed climbing areas, but I do know that the Auburn dam concept is no longer as politically infeasible as it was before Katrina.
Flood control agencies and politicians (including Doris Matsui) are being very cautious in their statements about Auburn dam. No one is ruling it right now because Katrina made them rethink priorities. The Sacramento area currently barely has 100 year flood protection (meaning a 1 in 100 chance of flooding in any given year). New Orleans had 250 year protection, but look what happened there. Modifications will go forward on Folsom Dam that will get Sacramento closer to 200 year protection, but many people think that's not enough for California's capital. If we want to get over 200 year protection, we have to look upstream from Folsom Reservoir. Auburn dam would literally cost billions, but could theoretically get us closer to 400 year protection.
Auburn has seismic issues and strong historic opposition from environmentalists and recreationists, but those arguments face a rising tide (no pun intended) of legitimate flood control concerns. I support opening climbing access at Auburn and have signed up to be part of the coalition, but I think we need to be aware of the larger debate and not just dismiss the dam as pure pork. There is a pork element with Doolittle to be sure, but that's not the whole story.
Edited to clarify concept of 100 year protection.
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mungeclimber
Nov 14, 2005, 2:14 AM
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Steve,
Just by way of a privacy practice, what will the emails on this list be used for? e.g. will the list be forwarded to the BOR? i.e. as proof of the number of concerned users? Or is this list for your use for this program to get information out to climbers?
If just the later, then I'm in.
Thx,
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glowering
Nov 16, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Munge,
I'm not sure if they will want email addresses or not. I'll research and post when I know.
Thanks, Steve
Also the suggestions for the name tend towards Northern California Climbers Coalition or NorCal Climbers Coalition NCCC or NCC. I think they are good, ASRACC is too long.
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mungeclimber
Nov 18, 2005, 5:52 AM
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kewl, thx
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yocal420
May 31, 2006, 7:15 AM
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leezerdgirl obviously spends too much time climbing indoors and living the city life to appreciate a free flowing river. Buy a kayak! You will learn to respect the power and beauty. I am stuck in Sac while I go to school and even own a home in the flood plane, but would never support building a dam in that canyon. I say put homes on stilts or whatever, but learn to live in harmony with the earth. We don't have to overpower and subdue the earth everytime our comfort is threatened. Stand up and be human. :?
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