|
|
|
|
handtraverse
Nov 5, 2005, 2:24 PM
Post #1 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 153
|
It took me a while to get up the nerve to post this question on the forum 'cause I didn't want to seem like I was being stupid, but here goes anyway: How does one climb a flat slab? That is, an approximately 10' foot stretch of flat rock, say, at about 60-70 degrees, with virtually no holds that I could find, with the exception of a couple of minor "dimples" in the face, but nothing I can really get a grip on to pull up or anything. And yet according to the climbing manual it tells you to go straight up the center of the slab. I would consider myself an advanced beginning climber considering all the practice bouldering and rapelling I've done since May this year. But this one 's got me frustrated...just when I started thinking I was getting the hang of climbing! Are there any seasoned climbers out there that can shed some light? http://www.fauxandwood.com/slabpic2.JPG Thanks. Handtraverse _______________________________ "Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
handtraverse
Nov 5, 2005, 2:50 PM
Post #3 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 153
|
Thanks d1ll1gaf. Sorry about the pic not showing up. I've been working on the problem. I don't know why, just yet, that it's not coming in. All my others do. Anyway, thanks again. I'll look at the site. Handtraverse
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Nov 5, 2005, 5:26 PM
Post #4 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
http://climbing.com/techtips/trad//index1.html Top of the page on this one http://climbing.com/techtips/trad/tttrad216 or this one specifically althought I can't seem to get link d1ll1gaf posted (to the same pages) to work. Something appears to be up with the bbcode for some reason. Hmmm
|
|
|
|
|
blitzkrieg_climber13
Nov 5, 2005, 6:14 PM
Post #5 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 288
|
friction my friend. use the sticky rubber on your shoes to just walk up the wall if it is ony 60-70 degrees. slab is tricky but use your balance and stay over your feet
|
|
|
|
|
srwings
Nov 5, 2005, 6:48 PM
Post #6 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2004
Posts: 247
|
Climbing slab is a little different than bouldering. Foot work and core balance becomes even more important when you are on slab. Concentrate more on foot placement and less trying to get something for your fingers to grasp. Once you trust your feet you'll find that those little dimples are bomber. A couple of things that I rely on are planning my footholds well in advance, starting with clean shoe soles, using foot-hand matching, and inverting my hand so that my fingers point down whenever I get the chance. This allows for smearing with your palm. I will say that indoor climbing, in my opinion and as much as I enjoy it, is the enemy of the aspiring slabber. Don't get discouraged. Just remember that someone has cracked the code on that route before and so can you with the right technique. BTW, what's it rated?
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Nov 5, 2005, 7:56 PM
Post #7 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
In reply to: How does one climb a flat slab? That is, an approximately 10' foot stretch of flat rock, say, at about 60-70 degrees, with virtually no holds that I could find, with the exception of a couple of minor "dimples" in the face, but nothing I can really get a grip on to pull up or anything. As with all climbing, you should be primarily using your feet and legs to get you up the rock, not your arms. This is especially true with slab climbing, as has already been posted.
|
|
|
|
|
scarpa
Nov 5, 2005, 11:11 PM
Post #8 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2005
Posts: 26
|
you could try a rock over if you get high enough on the left side
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Nov 5, 2005, 11:32 PM
Post #9 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:)
|
|
|
|
|
handtraverse
Nov 6, 2005, 1:23 AM
Post #10 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 153
|
Thanks for everyone's input. I just got back from a great day on the cliffs at Delaware Water Gap's Mt Tammany. A-a-anyway, regarding the slab in question I'd like to add a couple more comments. First I was blown away when "blitzkrieg_climber13" wrote: In reply to: just walk up the wall if it is ony 60-70 degrees. Whoah!..gulp, huh? Asandh wrote:In reply to: body weight should be on the "balls of your feet" not the toes. This maximizes rubber on the rock for friction. Legs should be vertical, this means on 60-70 degree slab your butt should be out in the air. :roll: Do you realize that 70 degrees is only 20 degrees away from 90 degrees??..or...verticle? Maybe I'm wrong about the angle. Maybe it's more than 60-70 degrees because I know when I was at the base of the slab it seemed almost verticle. Looking at the picture though, it doesn't look that way. But on the rock itself I remember it as really really steep. I can't even imagine slabbing this thing. But then again, I'm pretty new and proficiency levels are modest I'm sure. The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab. I know I'll be going back there to conquer this thing! Handtraverse __________________________________________ "Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
|
|
|
|
|
lizard0fthetrail
Nov 6, 2005, 1:36 AM
Post #11 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2004
Posts: 133
|
As was said previously, footwork and balance, and with said balance, core strength is fundamental. Slab is the ballet of climbing...precise, smooth, and subtley powerful.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 6, 2005, 2:24 AM
Post #12 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: ...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab... If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink: Curt
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 2:59 AM
Post #13 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: In reply to: ...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab... If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink: Curt I'm almost afraid to admit that I still love those things. My first 5.12, eons ago, was a high-angle, runout slabfest. Fun stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 3:04 AM
Post #14 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
In reply to: In reply to: ...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab... If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink: Curt come out west... good slabs to the sky. Stay on yeur feet.
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 3:17 AM
Post #15 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: ...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab... If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink: Curt come out west... good slabs to the sky. Stay on yeur feet. I am out west.
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 3:25 AM
Post #16 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power." Abraham Lincoln dead on. Thanks Rufus Co.
|
|
|
|
|
pendereki
Nov 6, 2005, 3:52 AM
Post #17 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2004
Posts: 323
|
Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab!
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 4:21 AM
Post #18 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab! Even better: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's patience, give him a 5.13 slab (Rainbow Wall). Thanks BH. :wink: http://i9.photobucket.com/...angi/RainbowWall.jpg BTW - This is one of the best pitches in Eldo.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 6, 2005, 5:00 AM
Post #19 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: In reply to: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab! Even better: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's patience, give him a 5.13 slab (Rainbow Wall). Thanks BH. :wink: http://i9.photobucket.com/...angi/RainbowWall.jpg BTW - This is one of the best pitches in Eldo. That's no slab, that thing is overhanging. 8^) Curt
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 5:07 AM
Post #20 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: That's no slab, that thing is overhanging. 8^) Curt Only when you're drinking scotch. :wink: It is the consummate hard slab - one of my favorites. When was the last time you were on it?
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 5:44 AM
Post #21 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
skum the yellow on the right and nickel the dime on the left... g'od 'le slabb'n...
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 5:49 AM
Post #22 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
quality research. 13a slab?..is that like a 13a offwidth?
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 6:08 AM
Post #23 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: quality research. 13a slab?..is that like a 13a offwidth? No research necessary. Personal experience. I used to love high angle slab climbing, and this was one of my favorites.
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 6:17 AM
Post #24 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
nice slab work ...just a dude with mIRCROCHEF ...and no control OF the caps key. .. Any good West coast slabs? ...est
|
|
|
|
|
slhappy
Nov 6, 2005, 6:18 AM
Post #25 of 56
(9027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2002
Posts: 207
|
what size shoe do I need??
|
|
|
|
|
|