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Partner handtraverse


Nov 5, 2005, 6:24 AM
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Flat Slab
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It took me a while to get up the nerve to post this question on the forum 'cause I didn't want to seem like I was being stupid, but here goes anyway:

How does one climb a flat slab? That is, an approximately 10' foot stretch of flat rock, say, at about 60-70 degrees, with virtually no holds that I could find, with the exception of a couple of minor "dimples" in the face, but nothing I can really get a grip on to pull up or anything.

And yet according to the climbing manual it tells you to go straight up the center of the slab. I would consider myself an advanced beginning climber considering all the practice bouldering and rapelling I've done since May this year. But this one 's got me frustrated...just when I started thinking I was getting the hang of climbing!

Are there any seasoned climbers out there that can shed some light?

http://www.fauxandwood.com/slabpic2.JPG

Thanks.

Handtraverse
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"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner


d1ll1gaf


Nov 5, 2005, 6:46 AM
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Re: Flat Slab [In reply to]
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Check out this tech tip at climbing.com, it gives a really good explanation of slab climbing

http://climbing.com/...tips/trad/tttrad216/


Partner handtraverse


Nov 5, 2005, 6:50 AM
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Thanks d1ll1gaf.

Sorry about the pic not showing up. I've been working on the problem. I don't know why, just yet, that it's not coming in. All my others do. Anyway, thanks again. I'll look at the site.

Handtraverse


petsfed


Nov 5, 2005, 9:26 AM
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Re: Flat Slab [In reply to]
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http://climbing.com/techtips/trad//index1.html Top of the page on this one
http://climbing.com/techtips/trad/tttrad216 or this one specifically

althought I can't seem to get link d1ll1gaf posted (to the same pages) to work.

Something appears to be up with the bbcode for some reason. Hmmm


blitzkrieg_climber13


Nov 5, 2005, 10:14 AM
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friction my friend. use the sticky rubber on your shoes to just walk up the wall if it is ony 60-70 degrees. slab is tricky but use your balance and stay over your feet


Partner srwings


Nov 5, 2005, 10:48 AM
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Re: Flat Slab [In reply to]
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Climbing slab is a little different than bouldering. Foot work and core balance becomes even more important when you are on slab. Concentrate more on foot placement and less trying to get something for your fingers to grasp. Once you trust your feet you'll find that those little dimples are bomber. A couple of things that I rely on are planning my footholds well in advance, starting with clean shoe soles, using foot-hand matching, and inverting my hand so that my fingers point down whenever I get the chance. This allows for smearing with your palm. I will say that indoor climbing, in my opinion and as much as I enjoy it, is the enemy of the aspiring slabber.

Don't get discouraged. Just remember that someone has cracked the code on that route before and so can you with the right technique. BTW, what's it rated?


vegastradguy


Nov 5, 2005, 11:56 AM
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In reply to:
How does one climb a flat slab? That is, an approximately 10' foot stretch of flat rock, say, at about 60-70 degrees, with virtually no holds that I could find, with the exception of a couple of minor "dimples" in the face, but nothing I can really get a grip on to pull up or anything.

As with all climbing, you should be primarily using your feet and legs to get you up the rock, not your arms. This is especially true with slab climbing, as has already been posted.


scarpa


Nov 5, 2005, 3:11 PM
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you could try a rock over if you get high enough on the left side


asandh


Nov 5, 2005, 3:32 PM
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:)


Partner handtraverse


Nov 5, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Thanks for everyone's input. I just got back from a great day on the cliffs at Delaware Water Gap's Mt Tammany. A-a-anyway, regarding the slab in question I'd like to add a couple more comments.

First I was blown away when "blitzkrieg_climber13" wrote:
In reply to:
just walk up the wall if it is ony 60-70 degrees.
Whoah!..gulp, huh?

Asandh wrote:
In reply to:
body weight should be on the "balls of your feet" not the toes. This maximizes rubber on the rock for friction. Legs should be vertical, this means on 60-70 degree slab your butt should be out in the air.
:roll: Do you realize that 70 degrees is only 20 degrees away from 90 degrees??..or...verticle?

Maybe I'm wrong about the angle. Maybe it's more than 60-70 degrees because I know when I was at the base of the slab it seemed almost verticle. Looking at the picture though, it doesn't look that way. But on the rock itself I remember it as really really steep. I can't even imagine slabbing this thing. But then again, I'm pretty new and proficiency levels are modest I'm sure.

The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab.

I know I'll be going back there to conquer this thing!

Handtraverse
__________________________________________
"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner


lizard0fthetrail


Nov 5, 2005, 5:36 PM
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As was said previously, footwork and balance, and with said balance, core strength is fundamental. Slab is the ballet of climbing...precise, smooth, and subtley powerful.


curt


Nov 5, 2005, 6:24 PM
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In reply to:
...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab...

If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink:

Curt


rufusandcompany


Nov 5, 2005, 6:59 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab...

If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink:

Curt

I'm almost afraid to admit that I still love those things. My first 5.12, eons ago, was a high-angle, runout slabfest. Fun stuff.


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 7:04 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab...

If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink:

Curt

come out west... good slabs to the sky.
Stay on yeur feet.


rufusandcompany


Nov 5, 2005, 7:17 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
...The climb is rated 5.9 but I don't know if that applies to the slab...

If it doesn't apply to the slab, then the slab is easier than 5.9 in difficulty. Once you have mastered that, come out west, where we have tons of 5.11 and 5.12 slab climbs--as well as B1 and B2 slab boulder problems. :wink:

Curt

come out west... good slabs to the sky.
Stay on yeur feet.

I am out west.


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 7:25 PM
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"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power." Abraham Lincoln

dead on.

Thanks Rufus Co.


pendereki


Nov 5, 2005, 7:52 PM
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Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab!


rufusandcompany


Nov 5, 2005, 8:21 PM
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In reply to:
Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab!

Even better: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's patience, give him a 5.13 slab (Rainbow Wall). Thanks BH. :wink:
http://i9.photobucket.com/...angi/RainbowWall.jpg

BTW - This is one of the best pitches in Eldo.


curt


Nov 5, 2005, 9:00 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him a 5.9 slab!

Even better: Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's patience, give him a 5.13 slab (Rainbow Wall). Thanks BH. :wink:
http://i9.photobucket.com/...angi/RainbowWall.jpg

BTW - This is one of the best pitches in Eldo.

That's no slab, that thing is overhanging. 8^)

Curt


rufusandcompany


Nov 5, 2005, 9:07 PM
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In reply to:

That's no slab, that thing is overhanging. 8^)

Curt

Only when you're drinking scotch. :wink: It is the consummate hard slab - one of my favorites. When was the last time you were on it?


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 9:44 PM
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skum the yellow on the right and nickel the dime on the left...

g'od 'le slabb'n...


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 9:49 PM
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quality research.
13a slab?..is that like a 13a offwidth?


rufusandcompany


Nov 5, 2005, 10:08 PM
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In reply to:
quality research.
13a slab?..is that like a 13a offwidth?

No research necessary. Personal experience. I used to love high angle slab climbing, and this was one of my favorites.


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 10:17 PM
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nice slab work
...just a dude with mIRCROCHEF
...and no control OF the caps key.
.. Any good West coast slabs?
...est


slhappy


Nov 5, 2005, 10:18 PM
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New Potic (topic) [In reply to]
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what size shoe do I need??

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