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waterman
Nov 3, 2005, 6:30 PM
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I'm looking for routes that are something like:
1) 2-5 pitch sport routes in the 5.6- 5.9 range
2) a few mixed routes w/ more sport than trad in the 5.8 area.
3) Any classic cracks or what not that a first timer in the are 5.9 to 5.10, lead (single pitch) or top rope able.
I have been scouring the net but i would hate to miss out on a great climb.
Thanks,
Jeff
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trenchdigger
Nov 3, 2005, 6:51 PM
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El Cajon Mtn has some stuff you'd enjoy and JTree has TONS. www.climbingjtree.com is a great source of info to formulate a tick list. A free El Cajon Mtn guide can be found here: http://giantsoftware.com/sdcc/free_guides.html
Routes I'd recommend:
- Bright Eyes - 5.6; 2 pitches, both 5.6. Mixed bolts/sml to med gear.
- Buffalo Brothers - 5.8; 2 pitches (or 1 long) plus a 1 pitch "approach". Sport.
- Leonids - 5.9; 3 pitches, each 5.9. Sport. P1 & P2 are Excellent.
- Swiftness - 5.10a crack; Vertical straight in jamming. Multiple .5-3" cams. I haven't had a chance to get on it yet, but it looks awesome!
Also, I've also been told that some of the 5.8 sport routes toward the right side of the wall are fun...
For crack practice, head up to Mt Woodson. SD County Climbing Guide is best for that. Check out Robbins Crack, Baby Robbins, the Tower 2 offwidth, Corn Flake, Elsa's Crack, Poison Oak Crack, Manuel's Horror, John's Crack, and The Crucible if you want some punishment.
Mission Gorge has some fun sport/mixed/trad leads, and it also has a lot of really lame routes. If you go there, check out The Ramp (5.7 crack), Skyline Pinncle (5.7 mixed), Mariah (5.9 crack... hard! TR it first), and a few others. Free guide also available from SDCC.
The season is ending, but Tahquitz has many quality, easy, multi-pitch trad routes.
Are you in town visiting or just looking for local climbing?
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asandh
Nov 3, 2005, 7:13 PM
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:)
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trenchdigger
Nov 3, 2005, 7:22 PM
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In reply to: trenchdigger wrote: In reply to: Also, I've also been told that some of the 5.8 sport routes toward the right side of the wall are fun... You need to start climbing on the right side at El Cajon Mt so you can recommend those routes too :) Great moderate link up on right side of El Cap Wall No Place to Hide pitch 1 (5.8 trad, 70 ft) No Place to Hide pitch 2 (5.8 sport, 130 ft) Over the Edge (5.9- sport, 120 ft wild & exposed but safe) :)
I'm hoping to head up there Sunday and may make it over to that side. Top on the list right now are Swifness, Backbone, and then head right and do Holey Moley, or the two you mention above - No Place to Hide and Over The Edge. Anyone interested?
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waterman
Nov 3, 2005, 8:07 PM
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Great info thanks alot. And thoes are exactly the types of routes i was looking for. I've been flipping through the sites and writing down perspectives, but there are just so many to read though I'm bound to miss some really good ones (I hadn't even looked at El Cajon but over the edge looks like it will be right on the money!!)
I'll be flying out in Jan for the first half of the month. Can't wait to freeze my ass in the desert again (actualy learned my lesson last winter this time i'll be ready).
Jeff
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pbjosh
Nov 3, 2005, 8:08 PM
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Next time I go back it's a rematch w/ P2 and P5 of Commander. P5 should go, P2 has a brutal boulder problem, hardest moves on the route for me.
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asandh
Nov 3, 2005, 8:13 PM
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:)
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hasbeen
Nov 3, 2005, 8:36 PM
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do any of you know which is the route leavitt called 'the best 12a i've ever done"? it's an arete. his route. 12a/b, i think.
thanks.
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bones
Nov 3, 2005, 8:54 PM
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In reply to: Next time I go back it's a rematch w/ P2 and P5 of Commander. P5 should go, P2 has a brutal boulder problem, hardest moves on the route for me.
Nobody asked for your tick list, so maybe you should just keep your friggin' mouth shut!!! :wink:
Adam, the Swiftness crack looks a lot better than it actually climbs. It had some mud in it the day I climbed it, might be cleaner now.
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trapdoor
Nov 3, 2005, 9:07 PM
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I did he swiftness last season and it was fine as far as being clean. It's a good long crack compared to most of the shorter stuff in san diego. I'd deffinetly recomend it.
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pbjosh
Nov 3, 2005, 9:15 PM
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hasbeen - The route is "Pockets of Resistance" and I've heard it called 12b most frequently, once 12c, and now from you once 12a, FWIW.
art - I still aim to get on Essential Madness, but last time I was out there my partner chose Commander and I didn't have the strongest day on it. I doubt I'll be onsighting Essential Madness though so don't hold your breath :)
bones - you still on the fr-sun only climbing schedule?
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bandycoot
Nov 3, 2005, 9:48 PM
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I don't think that's just mud in Swiftness. There must be at least a little bird/bat crap. :shock:
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bones
Nov 3, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Bat crap :shock: That would explain the rapid brain deterioration I've been experiencing... or maybe its just the beer.
pbjosh- yep, fri-sun. You find anyone for midweek climbing yet?
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ihuang
Nov 3, 2005, 11:18 PM
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Looks like getting spanked off Essential Madness this weekend it is.
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krga20
Nov 5, 2005, 11:56 PM
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Josh, if you lookin for partners let me know. We used to climb together at vertical hold a couple years back w/ wilson, chris, joe, niles etc...
good to see your getting after it!
Rob
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