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niccast
Nov 7, 2005, 12:55 PM
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A group of us (from Pennsylvania) went sport climbing last April in Red Rocks. We'd like to go somewhere out west again next year. We're trying to decide whether to go back to red rocks or try some place new. Can anyone suggest a good place for sport climbing that has a good variety of climbs (in terms of difficulty)? Thanks! :D
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scottquig
Nov 7, 2005, 1:50 PM
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I'd say Smith Rocks, but there it seems like the ratings are slightly harder--definitely not a beginner area.
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azrockclimber
Nov 7, 2005, 2:27 PM
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Tucson arizona...Mt. lemmon... huge range.... awesome climbing. what grades are you looking for?....i will rattle off a list for you....if I can..
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olympicmtnboy
Nov 7, 2005, 3:21 PM
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Smith Rock with hard ratings (ok, maybe the lower gorge)? Where you been climbing? Smith has a ton of routes at all levels and is a great place for the sport climbing beginner, lots of nice 5.6 or 5.7 leads and tons of routes to toprope in close proximity to each other if you have a group. Also many world class harder routes. April is a great time there as it isn't too hot yet.
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localshredder
Nov 7, 2005, 7:11 PM
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When are you planning on making your trip? I would say St. George in Utah from now until about March. Chuckwalla wall is a great sandstone crag. Go to the Cathedral for limestone, lots of new routes going up there. Also the Billboard or the Hideaway up American Fork will be good as well. The Billboards easiest climb is .11a, but the Hideaway has alot of tens.
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hendicrimpin
Nov 7, 2005, 7:30 PM
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Wyoming has some of the best sport in the west. Wild Iris is pretty good - but the place to go is Tensleep....AWESOME!!! From there you can jump to Devils Tower and Spearfish canyon (right over the south dakota border). It's a great trip tick, and even off the beaten path!
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alpine_monk
Nov 7, 2005, 8:22 PM
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sport climbing? out west? huh, none seems to come to mind. :wink:
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bobruef
Nov 7, 2005, 9:24 PM
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Morning Glory Wall and the Dihedrals are great for easier leads at Smith
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rockgoat
Nov 7, 2005, 9:37 PM
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City of Rocks & Castle Rocks State Park, Idaho has a bunch of Sport Routes. They also got a lot of great Trad routes. This place is great.
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dirtybiker
Nov 7, 2005, 9:51 PM
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i would definitely agree with Tucson..then you will also have Oak Flats and the whole area plus a silly little place called Jack's canyon if you are into outdoor gyms..and the Pit in Flagstaff..all in one state..head to AZ my friend.
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tisakson
Nov 7, 2005, 10:13 PM
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You're gonna get a lot of suggestions cuz there is so much. My favorite stuff is in Wyoming at Wild Iris or Sink's Canyon near Lander. great limestone rock and tons for every skilll level. If you've never been to Washington state and would like to check it out, there's lots of areas within 4-5 hours of eachother to check out in eastern WA.
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niccast
Nov 7, 2005, 11:22 PM
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We would probably be going in April again. We have a pretty wide range of abilities - a few that do 5.6-5.8, several in the .9-.10 range, and one guy that can do .11's. We'd be climbing for a week.
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stevep
Nov 7, 2005, 11:59 PM
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Smith is a good suggestion. April is perfect weather there. Lots to do in those grade ranges.
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treyfrancisclimbs
Nov 8, 2005, 12:04 AM
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Utah. Within 2 hours you have Maple Canyon ( Conglomerate cobbles with a ton of routes 5.4-5-14), Rock Canyon and American Fork Canyon (Limestone sport5.6-5-14), and Big CottonWood Canyon (Quartzite sport and trad 5.4-5.13). UH Yeah. Utah.
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mammoth_2k
Nov 8, 2005, 12:30 PM
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Josh, Smith, RR . . . hell . . the west rocks for it all!
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kalcario
Nov 8, 2005, 2:34 PM
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Sport climbing? Western U.S.? April? The Owens River Gorge, 10 miles north of Bishop, CA, is probably the best intermediate (5.9 to 5.11) sport crag in the U.S., the weather that time of year is pretty dependable there, plus bouldering, natural hot springs with hot tubs, awesome 14000' peaks right there...
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robman
Nov 8, 2005, 3:14 PM
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OWEN'S River Gorge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bishop. :wink:
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hmmm_rock
Nov 8, 2005, 3:14 PM
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ever though of coming to canada? There's some great stuff around Calgary (AB)
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asandh
Nov 8, 2005, 3:54 PM
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:)
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bighigaz
Nov 8, 2005, 4:37 PM
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I'll have to put in another ARIZONA! Tucson, Mt. Lemmon, for starters... then if you manage to pull away from the Catalinas, there is a lot more climbing to discover in the area, and as you head up to the Northern region of the state. You can't go wrong in AZ. Plus Tucson has the best Mexican food, and is less than an hour from the border, if you feel like an international side trip. Plus, if you're driving through AZ, you get to experience a ton of great spots close to the road, that just add to the trip. For example, the little known, but fantastic Tonto Natural Bridge, just a 15 minute drive off I-17 on the way to Flag, or from Flag... "the best non-climbing side trip I've ever taken" according to one of my buddies from the East Coast.
If you're willing to drive, and make a couple of weeks out of the trip, here's my suggestion for the ultimate AZ road trip:
Head to Tucson, then head south for some on-the-border fun, if you're in to that. Then on your way up I-19 take the exit that spits you out at Elephant Head (if you feel like squeezing in a little mountaineering style climbing, it's one of the coolest and wierdest formations in So. AZ.) Then head through Tucson to Mt. Lemmon up Catalina Highway. Make sure you plan your trip, or you might experience Windy Point (which IS fun), and leave thinking that was all the Lemmon had to offer. Plenty of people, including me, will give you some excellent suggestions depending on the grade. After you manage to leave mount lemmon, head up the 77 toward Globe, then the 188 SW a bit toward Superior. Get directions online, AND from a local so you don't get lost in the wierd maze of sub-highways! Enjoy some awesome bouldering and sport climbing at Oak Flats (Which may be the last time, if things don't go "our" way...) After you've torn yourself up at the flats and nearby areas, get yourself back to the Globe and take the 188 through the Roosevelt Lake area. Have some fun in the water, check out Tonto national monument (indian ruins), then keep following the 188 over to the Beeline highway (highway 87) and head toward Payson. Somewhere before you get to payson, there's a great little sport area developed by RC.com's "ldsclimber" (Aaron). I don't remember the pullout, but he can get you the info if you want it. Great climbing, hidden right off the road. Just before you get to Payson there's a Casino, if you like to gamble, or just want a cheap buffet. As you head through Payson, you'll find lots of good eats and cool locals. There are box canyons and cave's in the area, but I don't have good directions to those. My advice is to keep heading north out of Payson toward Winslow. You'll pass through so great small mountain towns, with home cooking and artsy-craftsy shops, then suddenly you'll find yourself dropping out of the pines and juniper into the high desert. Just on the left after you leave the pines, (I don't remember the mile marker... anybody remember?) you'll be at the turnoff to JACKS CANYON! Even if there's snow on the rim, as long as it's sunny, the weather in the canyon will be perfect. Sport climbers dream. Jacks is a lot of fun. If you ever get out of there, keep heading north toward Winslow. Just before you get to town, turn right on state highway 99, and it's just 10 minutes to Clear Creak reservoir. If you have access to a small trolling boat, you're in for a treat up the sandstone canyon. West of the dam is full of fantastic deep water soloing (ALWAYS check your landing for rocks underwater...) and some definate crack possibilities... even some possible FA's, though you may never really be sure if you're the first. Grill some burgers at the picnic area, then head back to Winslow and have dinner at La Posada, stay there a night if you have the money. Don't forget to "Stand on the Corner" downtown before you go. The Eagles will thank you.. and Winslow will just feel proud for it's clame to fame... On the other side of town from where you entered, take I-40 toward Flagstaff. It might be a little chilly if it's winter time... but you're in for some great climbing at La Petit Verdon (the pit), Paradise Forks, and other areas. Plus, on your way in to town, you can take the exit/side trip to Walnut Canyon... definately a fun diversion for a half a day. Okay, and I guess if you wanted to take a LONGER side trip, the Grand Canyon isn't much further North/NE from Flagstaff. If you've got time, and never been there, make sure you plan on it! If you want to meet some local climbers, stop by the local climbing gym "Vertical Relief." When you're finished with the Flagstaff scene, head south on I-17 and take the Sedona exit just outside of town. Yes, Sedona. Even if you don't climb (which you should), You're gonna have a great time! Make sure to climb a bit at Oak Creek Overlook (Just off the road.) Then when you get to Sedona, have a plan, our you'll be overwhelmed. Everytime I go there, my mouth hangs open in amazement. I suggest eating at INTERLANDI'S. Great Italian, and the BEST Spumoni (desert) I've had. When you can finally pull yourself out of Sedona (Just keep going, and you'll be back at I-17), you'll be headed toward Phoenix... but don't freat, the funs not over yet. Make sure you keep a look out for the turn off to Tonto Natural Bridge. You'll be glad you stopped by. Only a few miles of the highway, and quite a sight. When you're done, and you have to head back to Phoenix, don't worry, even though it might be deadly heat, there are 4 excellent climbing gyms in town. That should hold you over till you catch the plane out of AZ. Or maybe you're heading back to Tucson to fly out... Not a bad idea if you want to squeeze in a quick hike to the summit of Picacho Peak, 30 minutes outside of Tucson. You'll wonder why there is technical climbing in this park when you see it. Very striking feature. Don't forget to stop and pet the Emu's and Ostriches on your way out...
Okay, Almost back to Tucson. You could always head back to Mt. Lemmon for another dose, or if you're up for some Bouldering, check out Gates pass in the Tucson Mts. A hand full of fun, and close to Old Tucson Studios, and the Desert Sonoran Museum... oh, and the International Wildlife Museum... oh, and Sahuaro National Park... okay. That's enough. Point is, if you manage to do all this, you'll have had a small sample of Arizona... The state that just so happens to have MORE EXPOSED ROCK than any other state in the country...
I just revealed my road trip plans... I feel like I just bore my soul. Hopefully you get some good ideas from all of this...
Have fun! Contact me if you want more specifics.
James
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bighigaz
Nov 8, 2005, 4:44 PM
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JEEZE! I almost forgot to throw in Cochise Stronghold, if you're willing to head SE of Tucson for 1.5 hours. AWESOME trip, AWESOME climbing, yet another one you might not be able to pull away from... Cochise EAST AND WEST are both fantastic, and there are a conglomeration of fun sport, endless clean boulders, and the most classic trad lines in Arizona.... also some of the longest SPORT lines in AZ. (4 or 5 pitches, +)
I can't believe I left Cochise out of the road trip! I apologize.
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chossmonkey
Nov 8, 2005, 5:04 PM
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If you are going in April and want sport climbing with lots of different grades go to Jacks Canyon. The ethics used to put up a bunch of routes there are pretty bad, but the climbing is fun, the camping is free, and once there you don't need to drive, just walk from camp down into the canyon. There are routes from 5.5 to 5.13. Everyone likes to talk trash about Jack's but whether you agree with the ethics or not everyone I've ever talked to that has climbed there and gave it a fair chance had a blast.
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