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GriGri for Aid Climbing
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carlosoviedomexico


Aug 6, 2002, 10:10 AM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2002
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GriGri for Aid Climbing
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On a Aid Climbing Pitch it can take more than 3 hours to complete, it is very difficult to maintain concentration for so long, the Grigri is the vest option for this occasions, you can fix the static brake problem with a screamer (sock absorber) between you harness and the grigri.


krustyklimber


Aug 6, 2002, 11:22 AM
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Carlos,

Yes the Gri-Gri is a wonderful device for aid climbing, and the "static braking" problem is addressed with a screamer on the pieces that are suspect only.
The good pieces will not have any problems from the Gri-Gri.

As you say concentration can falter or your belayer could actually fall asleep, and you would be caught in case of a fall.

I hope this answers your question,

Jeff


aid312


Aug 6, 2002, 11:55 AM
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  Are you talking about solo aid???


krustyklimber


Aug 6, 2002, 10:37 PM
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No I don't think he was, but if he was the Gri-Gri is the best device for it too!

Jeff


blindslap


Aug 6, 2002, 11:07 PM
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but using the gri gri without the sceamer be really hard on those delicate placements like heads or small nuts? what about pieces that have a little rope drag, wouldn't that give a really hard yank on them?


apollodorus


Aug 6, 2002, 11:23 PM
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You can clip yourself and the Gri-Gri to the pig, so that it takes the weight in the fall. If you're belaying from a portaledge, the pig is usually right there, hanging just below the ledge, with the straps where you want them, so there is no problem. Use a daisy to clip to the pig yourself (unless it's A6 aid, and you don't want to be clipped to your insane leader )

The idea is that if a fall happens, the pig is lifted up to dynamically stop the fall. The same thing is done in solo aid climbing all the time.

For what it's worth, a zipper aid fall has low forces. Unless there is a long stretch of hooks or really bad placements, each POP absorbs energy so that the fall is like sliding down a slab. Even if the leader winds up below the belayer, it's not going to be a factor 2 fall.


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