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carlosoviedomexico
Aug 6, 2002, 5:10 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2002
Posts: 9
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On a Aid Climbing Pitch it can take more than 3 hours to complete, it is very difficult to maintain concentration for so long, the Grigri is the vest option for this occasions, you can fix the static brake problem with a screamer (sock absorber) between you harness and the grigri.
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krustyklimber
Aug 6, 2002, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Carlos,
Yes the Gri-Gri is a wonderful device for aid climbing, and the "static braking" problem is addressed with a screamer on the pieces that are suspect only.
The good pieces will not have any problems from the Gri-Gri.
As you say concentration can falter or your belayer could actually fall asleep, and you would be caught in case of a fall.
I hope this answers your question,
Jeff
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aid312
Aug 6, 2002, 6:55 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2002
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Are you talking about solo aid???
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krustyklimber
Aug 7, 2002, 5:37 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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No I don't think he was, but if he was the Gri-Gri is the best device for it too!
Jeff
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blindslap
Aug 7, 2002, 6:07 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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but using the gri gri without the sceamer be really hard on those delicate placements like heads or small nuts? what about pieces that have a little rope drag, wouldn't that give a really hard yank on them?
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apollodorus
Aug 7, 2002, 6:23 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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You can clip yourself and the Gri-Gri to the pig, so that it takes the weight in the fall. If you're belaying from a portaledge, the pig is usually right there, hanging just below the ledge, with the straps where you want them, so there is no problem. Use a daisy to clip to the pig yourself (unless it's A6 aid, and you don't want to be clipped to your insane leader )
The idea is that if a fall happens, the pig is lifted up to dynamically stop the fall. The same thing is done in solo aid climbing all the time.
For what it's worth, a zipper aid fall has low forces. Unless there is a long stretch of hooks or really bad placements, each POP absorbs energy so that the fall is like sliding down a slab. Even if the leader winds up below the belayer, it's not going to be a factor 2 fall.
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