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squid
Nov 9, 2005, 6:50 AM
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What exactly constitutes a High ball? 15-20 ft, what about if your 12ft and fully exposed? For instance a buddy comes up to you talking about the latest problem they've hit, and how it's the only real high ball problem out at the site because it hits at 14ft.
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coldclimb
Nov 9, 2005, 8:30 AM
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It depends. On a ton of factors really, not the least of which is individual perspective. Check the threads linked at the bottom of this page for similar posts in the past that may have more answers for you. :)
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squid
Nov 9, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Thanks for the insight
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rocamosca
Nov 9, 2005, 10:28 PM
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Even though this has been discussed a multitude of times(what topics hasnt though?) I'll post my opinion.
It depends on nature of the first ascent, and the most common nature of ascent on the route.
Case A) the route was FA'd as a climb with protection, ropes and the majority of people climb it with ropes and pro.
If you climb it without a rope or protection then its soloing
Case B) the route was FA'd as a boulder problem, the common mode of ascent is to climb it with no means of protection/rope then its a boulder problem regardless of height.
This is my basic rule of thumb, although im sure there are routes out there that are exceptions to this rule.
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builttospill
Nov 10, 2005, 4:24 AM
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What if the route was first climbed as a boulder problem, but most parties (or all) now do it as a route? Or vice versa?
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 10, 2005, 4:37 AM
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What if the FA free-soloed it?
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kachoong
Nov 10, 2005, 4:37 AM
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In reply to: What exactly constitutes a High ball?
....it's also where one sits higher than the other.... also known as offset....
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chossmonkey
Nov 10, 2005, 5:12 AM
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It doesn't matter if all the other boulders around are only 6 feet tall, 14 feet isn't a high ball. Generally problems aren't considered high ball until 18 to 20 feet. You might be able to drop it a little more if the crux is the top out. Point is you need to be doing fairly tough moves high enough that even with pads, most sane people would find it kinda scary and falls start to get dangerous just from the hight.
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zao479
Nov 10, 2005, 6:49 AM
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In reply to: ....a well known rule of thumb is ....half your age plus seven.... applies to almost everything.... :wink:
Bouldering becomes highball when the fall starts to hurt. Unless your bouldering alone in an area where your friends have never been. Then it's all highball. Of course that is unless your wife is there to here you tell the story. Then you have to us a little more discretion.
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phaedrus
Nov 10, 2005, 6:03 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Bouldering.
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reg
Nov 10, 2005, 6:37 PM
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bouldering=free soloing, highballing=freesoloing where you can get really F'd up!
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paulc
Nov 10, 2005, 6:45 PM
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You know it's highball if you get that same feeling like when you dive into a cold lake or river. Yeah that one.
My personal defintion isn't based on height, but more the consequences of the fall. With enough padding a fall from 15' could be casual, or not...
Ah, hell, what do I know I haven't really bouldered outside in years.
Paul
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squid
Nov 10, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Most say that if the move is high on the top out and hurts then its a highball, so completly over-hung crux that has a 15 ft drop would be considered...........
Sexy, that's what
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mr_shenanigans
Nov 21, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Highballs are my favorite boulder problems. but i dont think that they are highballs unless there is an overwhelming chance that you will get hurt no matter the position or number of pads. White Rastafarian V3 is a great highball the whole boulder is about 27ft but the scary mantel(its a real mantel non of your rock hump stuff) is about 24ft off the deck. One of my more proud sends was So High V6 which is 45-50ft high with the crux move to a shallow flake 35ft up. To say you did a highball is like a badge of honor, so dont sandbag the word...
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 21, 2005, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: One of my more proud sends was So High V6 which is 45-50ft high with the crux move to a shallow flake 35ft up....
I´d consider that a free solo.
How about The Fly? It´s not that high, but Graham et al tied in to try it because of the really bad landing zone.
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reg
Nov 21, 2005, 8:42 PM
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kachoong worte:
....a well known rule of thumb is ....half your age plus seven.... applies to almost everything....
....it's also where one sits higher than the other.... also known as offset....
that's good!! (:D (:D (:D !!
this conversation always amazes me - ie: bouldering (a relitivly new sport) is basiclly doin free climbing prob's close to the ground. that's the genesus of it but if you climb high - on anything - high enough to die or worst - your free soloing not "highballing"! let's not rewrite history. potter wasn't "highballing" el cap was he?
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litleclimberchick
Nov 21, 2005, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: One of my more proud sends was So High V6 which is 45-50ft high with the crux move to a shallow flake 35ft up.... I´d consider that a free solo.
GOSH DARN IT!!! squier, don't even say solo around him... you'll give him ideas. i don't want him to think about it any more than he already does... :roll:
lcc
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mbg
Nov 21, 2005, 9:47 PM
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2 oz bourbon whiskey
carbonated water
1 twist lemon peel
Pour bourbon into a highball glass over ice cubes. Fill with carbonated water and stir. Add the twist of lemon peel and serve. (Ginger ale may be substituted for carbonated water, if preferred.)
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climbsomething
Nov 22, 2005, 1:23 AM
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I'd say highball starts kicking in at about 18 feet. 20 for sure. If you have enough time to scream on the way down... it's a highball.
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litleclimberchick
Nov 25, 2005, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: 2 oz bourbon whiskey carbonated water 1 twist lemon peel Pour bourbon into a highball glass over ice cubes. Fill with carbonated water and stir. Add the twist of lemon peel and serve. (Ginger ale may be substituted for carbonated water, if preferred.)
i could use one of those right about now...
lcc
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jemco
Nov 28, 2005, 8:50 AM
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This is interesting to me ONLY because I can't figure out when you would need to call a problem "highball." Is the point to impress others? Is it to show how great a climber you are? Is it to warn off others? If the need to use "highball" is ego driven, then shut up and recognize that someone somewhere is ALWAYS climbing higher and harder than you. If the need to label something highball is driven by kindness to others, than you should simply show them the problem and let them decide if they want to climb it or not. I watched Jason Kehl climb "Animal Magnetism" at Squamish this past summer (1st ropeless ascent) and not one time did he say "damn, that was highball!" He just climbed it loud and proud and then cheered on his buddies.
jemco
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