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drunkenmonkey
Nov 8, 2005, 1:26 PM
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Guys/Gals
has anyone had any problems with stuff being stolen from the bottom of the Nose / Salathe area. We're thinking of leaving two haul bags at the base whilst we do the FB then come down for them, haul them up and do the rest of the route.
Any input on this idea or your own experiences/approaches would be welcome.
Take it easy
P
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epic_ed
Nov 8, 2005, 3:18 PM
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I think you'd be fine with other climbers leaving your gear alone, but it's the bears that will get you. They have found haul bags to be like a buffet and will rip them open like pinatas, regardless of whether there's any food in them. They've found food in them often enough that they just go for broke and start shredding. If you're going to leave your haul bags unattended for any period of time at the base of El Cap, you better get them waaaaaaay off the ground. Fourth class ledges are not sufficient. Hanging the bags 15 feet off the ground isn't sufficient. One bear scootched 20 feet up a 5.easy chimney this summer to get at haul bags near the Trip.
The good news is there are now new bear boxes at El Cap Meadow. Check Supertopo for details. I'll post a link to it later.
Ed
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asandh
Nov 8, 2005, 3:41 PM
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:)
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areuinclimber
Nov 8, 2005, 4:15 PM
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i wouldnt ever leave my stuff at the base overnight if i wasn't there. the people, for the most part, are fine, its the bears. what i would do if i was you is bring a smaller pack with all the climbing gear you plan to take up the thing and fix to wherever it is your fixing to. THEN i would schlep loads the base so your ready to haul when you get there. leaving stuff for a few hours during the day should be ok as long as there is no food. i left my stuff at the base of lurking fear for 6 hours pretty much unattended (no food though) with no problems. but im not doing it that way again.
have fun on your route!
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drunkenmonkey
Nov 8, 2005, 7:35 PM
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Guys/Galls
good points, I had completely forgotten about the bear issue. I don't want to be hauling a shredded pig after coming so far. I think we will leave the pigs in the car on the road and the food in the bear box's and come down from the FB and get our stuff gether at the car then haul it all up to Heart Ledges, bivy then continue on up the route. Any thoughts?
Take it easy
P
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dingus
Nov 8, 2005, 7:44 PM
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The Heart rap route was dismantled earlier this year by some self-declared local (from somewhere else of course) who was tired of the WRONG PEOPLE climbing up the fixed ropes and jamming the route, thus marring his perfect little world.
I think his stated point was to force Salathe Wallers to haul FB... and thereby cull the hordes because most know hauling FB sucks.
I don't know if its been reestablished.
Try supertopo.com, you'll get much more up to date beta, though you may also get flammed or ignored.
Bear 46 was photographed earlier this year from high on a wall route as he tore into some poor sob's haulbag under the NA Wall.
DMT
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microbarn
Nov 8, 2005, 8:32 PM
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In reply to: Bear 46 was photographed earlier this year from high on a wall route as he tore into some poor sob's haulbag under the NA Wall.
Bear 46???
I would have never guessed. I mean I can see bears 25, 87, 90 and of course 32 doing this, but not bear 46. Usually bear 46 is closer to bears like 17, 19, and 53.
:lol:
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lambone
Nov 8, 2005, 8:52 PM
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drunkenmonkey,
DON'T DO IT MAN!
two things to worry about when leaving your gear at the base, obviously. People and bears.
The problem with FB is that it is right near a bunch of popular base routes, so you might get some gumbies rifeling through your stuff, which would suck.
Bears are the bigger worry. Even with no food in your bags they will still tear into them.
Proper etiqutte these days is to carry your stuff up when you are ready to climb. Never leave it for more then it takes to make one run back to the car...and even that is sketchy...I have seen peoples wall plans ruined in the time it takes to make one trip back to the car for more stuff.
We huled to Heart first then did the freeblast. Problem is the ropes might break and you have no idea if they are good or bad without seeing them first. Not recomended.
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dingus
Nov 8, 2005, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Bear 46 was photographed earlier this year from high on a wall route as he tore into some poor sob's haulbag under the NA Wall. Bear 46??? I would have never guessed. I mean I can see bears 25, 87, 90 and of course 32 doing this, but not bear 46. Usually bear 46 is closer to bears like 17, 19, and 53. :lol:
Behold, Bear 46 takes a swipe at the Watusi:
http://i10.photobucket.com/...ailWatusiMauling.jpg
Bear 46 snacks on a climbers pack at the base of the CPF:
http://www.stanford.edu/...t/rep/05o29/c46f.jpg
Bear 46 is a tough bastard, and he read "How to Swim with Sharks" so watch out:
http://img388.imageshack.us/...16/beardiving7bz.jpg
Bear 46 has been known to go undercover, pose as SAR team member Werner, to gain access to choice haul bags:
http://img386.imageshack.us/.../beardisguise0jp.jpg
(Werner is clean shaven, a dead giveaway)
As you can see from this old pic by Ansel Adams, Bear 46 has been haunting Yosemite Valley for quite some time now. Problem bears can be quite long lived you know....
http://img28.imageshack.us/...yosemite1950s6rk.jpg
Bet you didn't know it, but Besar 46 was studied extensively in a National Geographic Special about the dietary habits of bears. What they discovered is that while bears can survive on haulbag foodstuffs, they much prefer 'people' food.
http://img382.imageshack.us/...py3offortpeck6qb.jpg
(bears don't react well to low fat diets, mess up their hibernation)
And here is the little rascal when he's not masquarading:
http://i13.photobucket.com/...adisrad/bearface.bmp
And lest you think all this is bullshit, here is Bear 46 about to enjoy a little big wall snack.
http://member.newsguy.com/...arattheAidersweb.jpg
Bet you weren't prepared for the scope of my detective work. And as I'm sure you can now tell, if Yosemite is the place you're to be, check out supertopo.com for the straight story on all the Valley Legends.
DMT
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epic_ed
Nov 8, 2005, 9:22 PM
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Bear #46 is not a myth, but a legend. I've had two up-close encounters with her, myself. Fortunately, the only consequences has been a ripped Camelbak.
Ed
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microbarn
Nov 8, 2005, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: As you can see from this old pic by Ansel Adams, Bear 46 has been haunting Yosemite Valley for quite some time now. Problem bears can be quite long lived you know....
Thanks for the laugh. I also appreciate the point that the problem animals usually are the ones that learn a habit and don't lose it. The problems will not be spread randomly across the population of animals. However, I will not be looking to identify bear numbers when I come across one going through my things.
Dan
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bdplayer
Nov 8, 2005, 11:06 PM
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Dingus, I can't wait to see your research on the squirrels in the park...... :shock: :shock:
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sspssp
Nov 8, 2005, 11:29 PM
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In reply to: Guys/Galls good points, I had completely forgotten about the bear issue. I don't want to be hauling a shredded pig after coming so far. I think we will leave the pigs in the car on the road and the food in the bear box's and come down from the FB and get our stuff gether at the car then haul it all up to Heart Ledges, bivy then continue on up the route. Any thoughts? Take it easy P
If you have a car, this is the way to go. From the bottom of the raps, it is pretty quick to run back to the car and grab the pigs and return to the fixed lines. Even lugging a pig, it won't take that long.
The fixed lines were removed earlier, but I think they are back. If you are looking for info on Yosemite, www.supertopo.com is much more focused on Yosemite than is rockclimbing.com.
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hollyclimber
Nov 11, 2005, 9:53 PM
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First of all, Bear 46 was killed when they killed a whole bunch of bears in late fall. Personally, I am happy.
Second, bears or no bears, I wouldn't leave anything visible at the base ever, let alone overnight.
It will be stolen.
Finally, jeez, all these people complaining about heart being trashed by Ivo when they weren't even there. Lame. Been reinstalled for MONTHS NOW. That happened way back in May (2 hours after I rappelled them), Ivo and Rob (Platinum) got in an awesome argument where Platinum called Ivo a cartoon character and I took the newer ropes away from Ivo to be returned if possible to their rightful owners (which some of them were).
Peace out.
hgb
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retired
Nov 12, 2005, 8:04 PM
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Be careful on the heart fixed ropes. rapped them in mid sept. and they were slightly scary, really flattened out when weighted. I was testing out a trango cinch and it was a bitch to get started again if you came to a stop in the middle of the rope...back to a gri gri for me. I really liked the good old days when you climbed free blast with 5 ropes...a pain for sure but at least you knew what you were dealing with.
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far_east_climber
Nov 12, 2005, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: Bear 46 was photographed earlier this year from high on a wall route as he tore into some poor sob's haulbag under the NA Wall.
Dingus, was this around April-May this year? I was watching a bear rip up someone's haul bag whilst they were soloing the early pitches to NA. I seem to remember the bear also having a 'chew' on some spare rope coming off the anchor or the bag...
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hollyclimber
Nov 13, 2005, 8:38 PM
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The reason these ropes are trashed is because of this kind of behavior. DO NOT RAP FIXED ROPES ON A GRI GRI or similar device. It burns up the ropes. I know its scarier pals, but the correct etiquette is to use the good old ATC on the fixed lines. If you are using your own rope, do as you like. I of course use my gri gri to rap when I am soloing or whatever. But, fixed lines that is really rude and a big no no.
Of course always be careful on fixed ropes.
Holly
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ricardol
Nov 14, 2005, 7:20 PM
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In reply to: The reason these ropes are trashed is because of this kind of behavior. DO NOT RAP FIXED ROPES ON A GRI GRI or similar device. It burns up the ropes. I know its scarier pals, but the correct etiquette is to use the good old ATC on the fixed lines. If you are using your own rope, do as you like. I of course use my gri gri to rap when I am soloing or whatever. But, fixed lines that is really rude and a big no no. Of course always be careful on fixed ropes. Holly
I dont know holly ... fixed lines are public property .. and not guaranteed to last .. or be in any kind of condition .. i wasn't even aware that there was etiquette around how to use fixed lines.
.. i always rap fixed lines with a grigri .. safer for me.
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lazide
Nov 14, 2005, 7:40 PM
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In reply to: The reason these ropes are trashed is because of this kind of behavior. DO NOT RAP FIXED ROPES ON A GRI GRI or similar device. It burns up the ropes. I know its scarier pals, but the correct etiquette is to use the good old ATC on the fixed lines. If you are using your own rope, do as you like. I of course use my gri gri to rap when I am soloing or whatever. But, fixed lines that is really rude and a big no no. Of course always be careful on fixed ropes. Holly
Fixed ropes were getting trashed well before gri-gri's - and it seems that it's easier to glaze them using ATC's and gloves than a gri-gri. (I use a gri-gri all the time for rapping fixed lines, when soloing or otherwise, and i've never seen any glazing caused by it.)
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dingus
Nov 14, 2005, 7:46 PM
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In reply to: Finally, jeez, all these people complaining about heart being trashed by Ivo when they weren't even there. Lame. Been reinstalled for MONTHS NOW. That happened way back in May (2 hours after I rappelled them)
You are SO plugged in.
So there. So Happening. So NOW...
So bite me.
DMT
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retired
Nov 15, 2005, 1:10 AM
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Well I obviously touched a nerve with my confession of rapping fixed lines using a gri gri. I too have never heard of such an ethic but consider me chastised, my head is hanging low. :roll:
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mikeehartley
Nov 15, 2005, 2:50 PM
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Mr. Jimmy Retired,
Just here to boost your poor beaten self-esteem. You are a bad boy, but I don't think it has anything to do with rapping on a Gri-Gri. I'm not buying that they are harder on ropes. I personally think an older ATC (narrower edge) is the cruel tool of choice. It creates an almost 180 degree bend over a very narrow edge. I've seen many ATC's still in use where this edge is comparable to a steak knife. It won't cut the rope, but it sure will abrade it. With a Gri-Gri you have a wide radius, polished edge.
Now about your other deviant behaviors...
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sto
Nov 17, 2005, 2:15 PM
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How long will you be on the Free Blast? If you are fast and trying to get down and haul and get to Heart or Lung Ledge for the night maybe consider rigging the first Heart haul the night before, pulling the bags up above bear height (maybe w/ a directional to keep it out of the way of others), then next day send Free Blast. That way when you are rapping down when you get to the first station you can immediately just start hauling -- probably save an hour+ rather than going back to the car and humping everything back up.
If you're not fast why not just do it the regular way: do Free Blast, rap down, mountain room carbo loading, sleep, and start hauling to Heart first thing next morning.
Just some ideas...
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enjoimx
Dec 6, 2005, 3:24 AM
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I realize bears climb well and have evn been known to go up 5th to 20 feet or whatever, but is it REALLY that hard to find a place to hang your bag that a bear cant climb to?
I dont know anything about the base of El Cap but I would guess theres some steeper spots that you could pull on gear and climb up 20+ feet and safely hang your bags no?
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guanoboy
Dec 7, 2005, 8:33 PM
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has anyone been on the fixed lines in the past month (or two)? Are they are up?
thanks
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