Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Worst advice ever on rc.com thread
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


dynosore


Nov 15, 2005, 9:40 AM
Post #1 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Worst advice ever on rc.com thread
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Since all the best advice is obviously contained within the Ask the Noob thread already, I thought it would be fun to compile all the worst advice ever given on this site into one thread. I'm too lazy to do it and have probably missed alot, so feel free to add. My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well...


jt512


Nov 15, 2005, 9:42 AM
Post #2 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Since all the best advice is obviously contained within the Ask the Noob thread already, I thought it would be fun to compile all the worst advice ever given on this site into one thread. I'm too lazy to do it and have probably missed alot, so feel free to add. My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well...

One of the classics, for sure. I'd forgotten all about that one.

Jay


snoangel


Nov 15, 2005, 9:49 AM
Post #3 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2004
Posts: 1715

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Shouldn't this just include anything ever posted by Jay? :twisted:


Tee hee...just kidding Jay. :wink:
BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season??


jt512


Nov 15, 2005, 10:03 AM
Post #4 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season??

Yeah, I've been out there 5 or 6 times already. It's been nice out there, and not crowded, for some reason, possibly, the Gumbies-Have-All-Gone-To-JTree Hypothesis.

Jay


microbarn


Nov 15, 2005, 10:31 AM
Post #5 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

check your equipment for microfractures


Partner gamehendge


Nov 15, 2005, 10:41 AM
Post #6 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 398

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season??

Yeah, I've been out there 5 or 6 times already. It's been nice out there, and not crowded, for some reason, possibly, the Gumbies-Have-All-Gone-To-JTree Hypothesis.

Jay


:lol: :lol: :lol:


seabee


Nov 15, 2005, 10:49 AM
Post #7 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 136

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When asked how to set up a double rope rappel:

In reply to:
you dont want anything tied, because you have to pull the rope


seabee


Nov 15, 2005, 10:51 AM
Post #8 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 136

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There was also some "advice" on using two atc's when rappelling on two ropes, but I couldn't find it...


thorne
Deleted

Nov 15, 2005, 11:34 AM
Post #9 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Curt's foot belay thread.


dynosore


Nov 15, 2005, 12:07 PM
Post #10 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
check your equipment for microfractures

What do you mean? You don't?!?! I bet you don't retire your rope after 6-8 falls either.

In reply to:
When asked how to set up a double rope rappel:

beyond_gravity wrote:
you dont want anything tied, because you have to pull the rope

Speed rappelling for sure. (it's even more classic when they're repelling) Wasn't their someone advocating the merits of Aussie rappelling too?


galt


Nov 15, 2005, 12:10 PM
Post #11 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2002
Posts: 267

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I enjoyed reading how to solo while using a Petzl Tibloc & biner. I never knew my life was worth the mere $50 more a solo device cost. Ahh... I love this place.


jt512


Nov 15, 2005, 12:31 PM
Post #12 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Look through this thread: Gumby of the Year Award. Pay particular attention to anyone nominated in the Gumby Innovation category. There should be some gems in there.

Jay


slobmonster


Nov 15, 2005, 1:35 PM
Post #13 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well...
Hell, I'll admit it. That one was mine, and I still stand by it, given some significant qualifications.

Ask me, if you want. You might learn a new, handy trick.

The best way to utilize this particualr GriGri trick is when using the device to rappel a single line. Set up before removing your link to the anchor, there is no reason to open your locking biner once loaded.


kyote321


Nov 15, 2005, 1:43 PM
Post #14 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 636

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sport climbing is neither


altelis


Nov 15, 2005, 1:56 PM
Post #15 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

slobmonster-
what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line?


Partner pharmboy


Nov 15, 2005, 2:03 PM
Post #16 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

worst advice ever received on rc.com.... something to do with a beer enima.... I'll say no more!


aikibujin


Nov 15, 2005, 2:11 PM
Post #17 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 408

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well...
Hell, I'll admit it. That one was mine, and I still stand by it, given some significant qualifications.

Ask me, if you want. You might learn a new, handy trick.

The best way to utilize this particualr GriGri trick is when using the device to rappel a single line. Set up before removing your link to the anchor, there is no reason to open your locking biner once loaded.

Clipping the brake strand through a separate biner that was either clipped to the belay loop or the leg loop will do the same trick, and safer because you don't have to mess around with your belay biner. Even if you set up your method before the belay biner is loaded, the movement of the rope through the biner could potentially twist the locking sleeve of your belay biner and put it into an unlocked position.

I liked your trick with rappelling with the Reverso, but I agree with most that your trick with the Grigri is not advisable, especially if there's a safer way to accomplish the same thing.


slobmonster


Nov 15, 2005, 2:15 PM
Post #18 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
slobmonster-
what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line?
The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves.


altelis


Nov 15, 2005, 2:20 PM
Post #19 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

but of course-WELDING GLOVES!!

the midget and the knot i got right away-that's common sense.

but WELDING gloves!! its so simple now that i see it!
:wink:


gunkiemike


Nov 15, 2005, 4:53 PM
Post #20 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
slobmonster-
what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line?
The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves.

Where do I find welding gloves small enough to fit the midget's hands?


tradrenn


Nov 15, 2005, 5:02 PM
Post #21 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Q. How often do you retire gear ?

A. Every time you fall.

Q. How often do you retire rope ?

A. Every time it breaks.

I don't remember the threads that I read them in.


tnmountainman


Nov 15, 2005, 5:12 PM
Post #22 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2005
Posts: 99

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


microbarn


Nov 15, 2005, 6:31 PM
Post #23 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
slobmonster-
what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line?
The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves.

Where do I find welding gloves small enough to fit the midget's hands?

They only have to be small enough to fit the horse. The midget has nothing to do with that.


davidji


Nov 15, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #24 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Q. How often do you retire rope ?

A. Every time it breaks.
Do you mean you don't retire your rope when it breaks? :wink:


jpearl


Nov 15, 2005, 6:45 PM
Post #25 of 40 (6464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 517

Re: Worst advice ever on rc.com thread [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Any posting in a thread with a topic like "Religion + Climbing".

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook